• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.

V7/9 Fuel Filter Replacement How-To

Watching someone do it "On TV" and doing it your self - are close but Not quite the same :eek:

I saw this guy on TV Jump a motorcycle over a whole bunch of School buses and he landed it no problem - I couldn't even do one car without coming off the bike :blush:

Ill give it a try in the spring after I run the *Winter* gas out of the tank.
Maybe I should keep watching the Video and try some visualization of taking the assembly out in my sleep...:think:
 
On my 2019 V7 III Night Pack, I ran the gas to the low fuel warning light came on and then used an USB endoscope (bought on Amazon) to check what type of filter I have and looks like it is an all metal one.
The endoscope could also be helpful to check if the piston is at TDC while checking the valve clearance.
filter_1.png

filter_2.png
 
subin said:
On my 2019 V7 III Night Pack, I ran the gas to the low fuel warning light came on and then used an USB endoscope (bought on Amazon) to check what type of filter I have and looks like it is an all metal one.
The endoscope could also be helpful to check if the piston is at TDC while checking the valve clearance.
View attachment 21473

View attachment 21474
Click to expand...

Bingo.

A very useful tool ... and inexpensive for its myriad uses.

Just used one to confirm that Norge's oil weep was from rear main seal.

Bill
 
The fuel tank removal/reinstall is a simple task, but simple isn't always easy. The lack of familiarity with doing the task makes it more difficult than it would be if I had done it many times before.

Just be patient and be careful not to break the red plastic fuel connector. As others have stated, it's easier to remove if you relieve pressure in the system. I disconnected the fuel pump and tried to start the engine, but mine wouldn't start without fuel pump pressure. So, I ended up having to reconnect the fuel pump, ignition key on, start the engine, then disconnect the fuel pump while the engine was running to have it sputter and die. Afterwards, the fuel pressure was relieved.

It's a lot of working in cramped spaces, getting your arms around and under a tank with very little clearance, to disconnect and then reconnect everything.

Then, once you get it off you have to deal with taking the fuel pump out of the tank. It's once again, simple but not necessarily easy for those unfamiliar with the task. I had to be a little less than gentle with mine to get it removed. I found I was babying the pump too much, you have to wiggle it so the fuel lines clear the tank sides, and that took a little more effort than "barely moving it" - just carefully watch every move you make, and be careful. Applying sufficient pressure to get the pump out is not the same as carelessly brute forcing things around. Be an iron fist in a silk glove, is the general idea.
 
DominoDoggy said:
Another V7 with its plastic fuel filter where it belongs - in the GARBAGE!
This is from my 2014 model, bulging and soft. Good to get it replaced.

bDGwqwE.jpg
Click to expand...


Are those the Oeticker clamps? If so, are they the 11.3 size? if so, do you have a part# for them by chance?

Also, do you need the branded Oeticker tool to install those or will any set of pliers work? I've read conflicting stories.

thanks
james
 
Those are 1/2 inch Oetiker style clamps, I'm not sure of the metric size. I got the tool with clamps from Amazon, it was sold as "IWISS Pex Pipe Clamp Cinch Tool for Stainless Steel Clamps 3/8 inch to 1 inch with 1/2 inch 20pcs and 3/4 inch 10pcs SS Pex Clamps" you can likely search for that exact title and find it.

I replaced the nylon fuel line on the pump assembly with good quality new 5/16" internal diameter (half inch outer diameter) high pressure fuel hose, and the 1/2" clamps worked perfectly. The 1/2" clamps that came with my tool purchase were too large for the original nylon fuel hose so I went ahead and replaced it because I couldn't source smaller clamps locally. Figured it was a good time to replace the six-year old fuel line in the pump anyway, hopefully I'll never have to open it again.

You can source 3/8" Pex Clamps from Amazon as well which would likely work with the OEM fuel lines.
 
I hope so too. I couldn't find a lot of specs on what I got but, what I did find states "resists permeation" and I specifically told NAPA that I needed an in-tank submersible 5/16" ID line and this is what they brought me...

SAE 30R14T2

If anyone familiar with SAE 30R14T2 fuel line knows for sure, please let me know here for myself and others. I don't want to tear back into the fuel tank again but, I'll do it for sure. It wouldn't hurt to re-familiarize myself with the task!
 
James Dixon said:
Are those the Oeticker clamps? If so, are they the 11.3 size? if so, do you have a part# for them by chance?

Also, do you need the branded Oeticker tool to install those or will any set of pliers work? I've read conflicting stories.

thanks
james
Click to expand...

my gtm metal filter came with two types of the correct clamps depending on your fuelline diameter
 
I'm reading mixed information on various forums about the correct size of the Oetiker clamps required.

Some websites suggest Part number 16700011 which are 11.3mm CLOSED and 13.8mm OPEN

Others are suggesting 11.3MM is the OPEN size , which then suggests it's the 9.6mm CLOSED position (Oetiker part 16700007)

Does anyone know which is the correct clamp (11.3 closed or 11.3 open)?

I know our host sells a kit which is great, but I'm in Canada and the cost of shipping a filter and clamps is a bit cost prohibitive in this particular scenario. I have to make a big part order in a few months and I could just toss the kit onto that, but this is something I would like to get sorted out right away.

Thanks
James
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top