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V7 Clutch Cable R & R--HELP!

Well after now even removing the lever it does not give me the reach necessary, I can't even get it on the adjuster let alone into the lever or anything else. not sure if maybe the wrong size was delivered or if maybe something else is missing
 
Alex Stalgis said:
Well after now even removing the lever it does not give me the reach necessary, I can't even get it on the adjuster let alone into the lever or anything else. not sure if maybe the wrong size was delivered or if maybe something else is missing
Click to expand...
It was the correct part # I believe. Check the bag, should be # 2B001201
 
yeah, I'd assumed the part was right, I'm sure theres something I'm missing. For the life of me cannot figure out what though, looked for other videos on the clutch replacement but everything I've found is for other brands that the cable seems completely different from this one.
 
Well, through a whole lot of trial and error I managed to get the cable fitted, but now it seems my battery died while not in use somehow and the seat release isn't functioning, working on bikes is truly wonderful haha. At least i hope its the battery.
 
Also, I never remove an existing cable until I lay the new cable in precisely the exact same path of travel. You’d be amazed how a very slight deviation in path, can make a huge difference in slack.
 
vagrant said:
I haven't done a v7 yet. On other Guzzis I just hook it up on top and use a bar to lever in the clutch arm enough to put the cable in.
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That works on a big block 5 speed, and is how I do them. Now not so much on the small block bikes as the clutch arm isn't very accessible.
 
john zibell said:
That works on a big block 5 speed, and is how I do them. Now not so much on the small block bikes as the clutch arm isn't very accessible.
Click to expand...
John, they moved the arm to a much nicer and exposed position starting with the 2016 V7 Mk II, and it thankfully remains to date.
 
scottmastrocinque said:
Also, I never remove an existing cable until I lay the new cable in precisely the exact same path of travel. You’d be amazed how a very slight deviation in path, can make a huge difference in slack.
Click to expand...
I had thought of the same and tied the new cable to the end of the old cable with some string so it takes the same path as I pulled the old one out
 
GTM® said:
John, they moved the arm to a much nicer and exposed position starting with the 2016 V7 Mk II, and it thankfully remains to date.
Click to expand...
Thanks Todd for the information. New bikes are rare in my area. Mostly older iron.
 
robertllr said:
Another thought:

Rather than buy an OEM replacement clutch cable, I'd like to have one made up by one of the houses that does custom cables. My design woudl have a straight handlebar end, and an adjuster into the other end. It could also specify a low-friction lining

To do this, I would need someone with access to a fresh spare cable to measure the indicated distance and let me know what it is:

View attachment 7403

With that info I could advise the maker of the required dimensions and specs for the proposed cable.

Then, if the new part cures the problem, I could order a small run of cables, which I would provide at minimal profit over my own cost to anybody who would like to try one.
Click to expand...
Sounds great, can you keep me informed of how this works out? Good on ya. G.
 
robertllr said:
There is, in fact, more than enough room for an adjuster; moreover, it would be completely accessible, as you can see from the (blurry, sorry) pic below.
View attachment 7422

Incidentally, what looks like part of the cable end next to the crankcase boss, is actually a stack of three washers I cut and inserted to take up some of the cable slack while I am waiting for Motion Pro to make up my properly designed clutch cable.

As for the cable routing, of course, I can't speak to the situation with the Breva (that you no longer have); however, as you can plainly see from the pics below,
View attachment 7423
the L on the V7 (which I do have) is not only not necessary as you suggest, but quite the opposite; it forces the cable sharply down over the headlight ear. A slightly longer cable (as I have specified) will make a nice easy sweep under the headlight, and across to the right side of the bike to continue the factory routing under the headstock over the regulator rectifier, between the V and on to its destination.

View attachment 7424

View attachment 7425

(Not that it is material here, but I have read on this list what some owners have done to reroute the clutch cable. The only thing I see is that people have tried to keep it off hot hot cylinders to avoid burning the outer cable insulation. Perhaps that is what you were thinking of?)

I am not one for speculation, so I will not blame bean counters or too much red wine for these engineering choices. Whatever the reasons, they are simply wrong. If you were actually working on a V7, as I am, I am sure you would agree.

Also note the (blurry again, sorry) picture of the threaded adjuster for the lifting rod.
View attachment 7426
The nut is not too inaccessible, but the threaded adjuster screw is smack up against the swing arm. Fortunately Guzzi machined a flat into the end of it, so with a suitable fabricated wrench-like tool, the screw can be turned when the nut is slackened.

The bad part for me, is that it seems like the screw has been turned in almost all the way, so there is little adjustment left to take up the slack left. This is ye another reason why not having a cable adjuster was a very bad idea from the standpoint of maintenance.

Finally, I must confess that serendipity has played a part in helping me cure my heavy clutch. While I was tinkering with the clutch arm, the arm return spring fell out. I tried to squeeze it...and failed! The thing is stiff as a valve spring. Well, not really It is about an inch long and takes 20 lbs of force to compress it to half that length, and another 10 lbs till the coils bind.

I reassembled the clutch system--omitting the return spring and now with some of the slack taken out at the bottom en end my jerry rigged spacer, and routed the cable as rationally as possible. the clutch pull is now reasonable, though quite heavier than that of my Daytona 675, still significantly lighter than the old Bonnie.

I can now adjust the free play so the clutch engagement and disengagement takes place closer to midway of the clutch lever operating arc. A test run shows no slippage.

So last step, besides the new custom cable will be to install a lighter return spring.

However, I probably won't post about it here again, as there seems to be little interest in my experiments, and what replies I have gotten seem more slanted to make the responder look wise and make me look stupid.

Ciao.
Click to expand...
 
Im doing this too after cable broke this morning on my v7II. Routing the cable was easy enough with the tank shuffled back out of the way (not disconnected). Ive fitted the feral to clutch hand lever end.

But I cannot get the other feral over the clutch arm. Ive removed the adjustment bolt. Ive shimmied the lever mechanism along the handlebar to allow the cable to be closer to the clutch arm. Ive tried levering the clutch arm. Im 3mm away from getting this done.

What’s the trick for this. Nothing in the manual. Thanks.
 
OzMGV7/9 said:
Im doing this too after cable broke this morning on my v7II. Routing the cable was easy enough with the tank shuffled back out of the way (not disconnected). Ive fitted the feral to clutch hand lever end.

But I cannot get the other feral over the clutch arm. Ive removed the adjustment bolt. Ive shimmied the lever mechanism along the handlebar to allow the cable to be closer to the clutch arm. Ive tried levering the clutch arm. Im 3mm away from getting this done.

What’s the trick for this. Nothing in the manual. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I found my stuff up. I hadn’t backed it off at the handlebar end. I adjusted the handlebar end and went straight on.
 
I'm dealing with this problem as well, however in reverse. The free play is about 150mm, but really needs to be about 160mm; the sheath is just too long. I bought two different style cables, one curved, one not, and neither has enough free play to fit my bike. The handlebar adjustment is completely wound-in, but still not enough.

Gutsibits.co.uk list free play for each (THANKYOU), and as you can see my cables are about the same length so it must be my bike, but I cannot figure out what.

Any suggestions?
 
I stock the proper cables for your bike on the (GTM) STORE. Please don’t link people away from this site to our competitors as stated at the top of every page.
 
Thank you @GTM®, my apologies.
I'll swing by and pick up a cable next week, thank you. I would have ordered it from you originally, but didn't see my model/year listed.
2010 V7 Café Classic
 
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