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V7 II Fuel/Idle Issue

RedHawk47 said:
A couple of more things to check:
Do you have the latest fuel map; I believe it is 4533V796. I know my dealer up graded mine from the original. You can check the number with GuzziDiag, or ask your dealer.
Are your plug caps making good connection to the plugs? Are the caps shorting to the head? This is a known problem. Besides poor running, another symptom is color (brown, or blue if it's real bad) on the mufflers - fuel that did not burn in the cylinder is burning in the catalytic converter. One of my mufflers was turning brown. I checked the plug connector by first pushing it on further. The one with the brown pushed on further - felt like it moved an eight inch or more. The engine runs better now.
Dan
Click to expand...

The top 6-8 inches of the pipes are solid blue... then everything is perfectly chrome beyond that. It was that way when I bought it.

I just got off the phone with my local dealer/service shop and they confirmed that the original factory warranty stays with the bike regardless of owner. I will be making an appointment as soon as their service writer gets in.
 
Just a brief follow-up...

I took it to my local dealer/shop and they are going to look at it and see if it falls under warranty service. Being the beginning of prime riding weather here in North Texas, it will be a couple of weeks before I hear back from them.
 
Kacey3 said:
I bought my 2016 V7 II used with only 2500 miles on it, but it has this persistent sputter for the first few minutes, and continues to exhibit inconsistent power at low revs at throughout my rides. Any ideas what could be causing it? Is it something I can take care of myself or should I be scheduling a trip to a service tech?

I have run some Lucas top end cleaner through two full tanks of 93 octane gas and the condition has not improved.

Click to expand...

Mine does the same and it only has 800 miles on it (bought it new). Rarely shuts off on its own but does sputter at the cold start. Closest MG is 100+ miles from me but I guess I need to make an appointment.

Also, do you like your Corbin seat? I'm thinking of ordering one

-Bryan
 
BryanT said:
Mine does the same and it only has 800 miles on it (bought it new). Rarely shuts off on its own but does sputter at the cold start. Closest MG is 100+ miles from me but I guess I need to make an appointment.

Also, do you like your Corbin seat? I'm thinking of ordering one

-Bryan
Click to expand...

I like the Corbin seat for two-up riding - my wife feels much safer with the longer seat and back-rest. I also appreciate it for long distance riding. For short jaunts around town, I still prefer the basic seat. The Corbin is more of a "bucket seat" so while it is super comfortable in your riding position, its less comfortable to straddle at a stop.
 
Kacey3 said:
I like the Corbin seat for two-up riding - my wife feels much safer with the longer seat and back-rest. I also appreciate it for long distance riding. For short jaunts around town, I still prefer the basic seat. The Corbin is more of a "bucket seat" so while it is super comfortable in your riding position, its less comfortable to straddle at a stop.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's good to know. I ordered the single seat version from them today and will plan to hold onto the stock saddle for in-town riding. I did a longer (225 miles) ride this past weekend and definitely needed something more comfortable so hopefully this does the trick!

-Bryan
 
BryanT said:
Thanks, that's good to know. I ordered the single seat version from them today and will plan to hold onto the stock saddle for in-town riding. I did a longer (225 miles) ride this past weekend and definitely needed something more comfortable so hopefully this does the trick!

-Bryan
Click to expand...


I'm curious to hear how the solo Corbin compares to the stock seat. Please keep me informed...

...not that I will be buying it any time soon, my wife would strangle me if I bought a second seat at that price. ;)
 
Kacey3 said:
I'm curious to hear how the solo Corbin compares to the stock seat. Please keep me informed...

...not that I will be buying it any time soon, my wife would strangle me if I bought a second seat at that price. ;)
Click to expand...

It was certainly painful to pay that much but I'm hopeful it's money well spent! I'll post a photo and an early review once it comes in a few weeks
 
So here's an update.

The dealer had it for 3 weeks and claimed that it was running "as intended." I told them to please look at it again and at least flash the ECU. They called me back the next day and said that it was in fact running poorly and kept it for another two weeks to diagnose it.

After 5 weeks total, they said that it was the Throttle Positioning Sensor and adjusted it. They charged me $160 and let me pick it up. When I picked it up, it sounded fine but when I started it up the next morning, it was just as bad as it had been. It also continues to sputter and bog while idling and even during riding. So I guess I'll be calling the service dept. again to let them know that they really didn't do anything at all.
 
Kacey3 said:
After 5 weeks total, they said that it was the Throttle Positioning Sensor and adjusted it.
Click to expand...
Well, the TPS on all 2013+ V7s are electronically set (only), so that's a 5 minute job along with the AutoLearn function (if they set it?). I suspect if they read the ECU errors, they will see something else is amiss.
 
I had a poor running engine last weekend, so poor that the engine warning light would come on - and then it would start running better and the light would go out - and repeat.
Turns out that the cable to the right side fuel injector, at the injector, had worked it's way loose and was intermittently connected/disconnected. I pushed it home and fully seated it and the problem went away.
But it seems to run rough occasionally still. I have changed the plugs and caps. Next thing to check is the coils and the wires to and from.
 
Siphoned every drop of fuel out of the tank this weekend and found some water or some non-gas substance at the bottom of the tank. This could explain a lot of the rough running. I filled it back up with 93 Octane with some Seafoam and ran it around for 130+ miles. Still a couple stutters, but nothing nearly as bad as I've been experiencing.

Here's hoping that I'll see continued improvement from here without having to leave it at the dealership for another month.

19050572_807318256097467_7035280486683377664_n.jpg
 
Nope. I have to believe there is still something wrong. I rode several times yesterday and suffered near stalls and inconsistent throttle.

I finally got frustrated with it and just pulled the O2 sensors out at a stop light and everything smoothed out again.

The dealer told me that "it the O2 sensors were bad, the check engine light come on," but I am pretty convinced that there's something wrong with the O2 sensor, nevertheless.
 
I had similar problems about 1,500 miles ago, I uncoupled the cables to the sensors in the exhaust pipes and it has run ok ever since touch wood. Steve.
 
oldlegs said:
I had similar problems about 1,500 miles ago, I uncoupled the cables to the sensors in the exhaust pipes and it has run ok ever since touch wood. Steve.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've been considering just skipping the O2 sensors, myself.
 
Kacey3 said:
Yeah, I've been considering just skipping the O2 sensors, myself.
Click to expand...

Hey Kacey, how's your bike, I'm new here and I've had my 2016 V7 Stone II for about a month now and I have the same issues as you. Has things got better since the O2 sensor swap? How is you bike overall now?
 
yvrider said:
Hey Kacey, how's your bike, I'm new here and I've had my 2016 V7 Stone II for about a month now and I have the same issues as you. Has things got better since the O2 sensor swap? How is you bike overall now?
Click to expand...

I didn't swap the O2 sensors, I just unplugged them completely. It wouldn't' hardly run with them plugged in so I've simply left them unplugged. I have noticed a marked improvement, but every now and then it does stutter when cold, threatening to die but I manage to rev it to keep riding.

I know in my heart that there's still something wrong, but will likely wait until the next service checkup to get the service department to look at it again. They didn't believe me and insisted that I was wrong, but there's no way this is how the bike is supposed to run.

I plan to get video of it running poorly before taking it in again. All the dealership ever said was "it's running like a champ."
 
Kacey3 said:
I didn't swap the O2 sensors, I just unplugged them completely. It wouldn't' hardly run with them plugged in so I've simply left them unplugged. I have noticed a marked improvement, but every now and then it does stutter when cold, threatening to die but I manage to rev it to keep riding.

I know in my heart that there's still something wrong, but will likely wait until the next service checkup to get the service department to look at it again. They didn't believe me and insisted that I was wrong, but there's no way this is how the bike is supposed to run.

I plan to get video of it running poorly before taking it in again. All the dealership ever said was "it's running like a champ."
Click to expand...


That's what they all say, I find that you really have to push them and don't take no for an answer, speak to the man in charge and complain. I recently got my bike back from the dealer and they updated a new map, found some minor issue with the valve and now she's running like when I first got her. I know how it feels dealing with the dealership, I just didn't take no for an answer. Seems a bit arrogant on their part saying you were wrong, a little unprofessional. Did they test ride it? Hope all gets better on your end an d you get back to riding, I wouldn't wait too long.

Stay safe while riding!
 
yvrider said:
That's what they all say, I find that you really have to push them and don't take no for an answer, speak to the man in charge and complain. I recently got my bike back from the dealer and they updated a new map, found some minor issue with the valve and now she's running like when I first got her. I know how it feels dealing with the dealership, I just didn't take no for an answer. Seems a bit arrogant on their part saying you were wrong, a little unprofessional. Did they test ride it? Hope all gets better on your end an d you get back to riding, I wouldn't wait too long.

Stay safe while riding!
Click to expand...

They had it for three months, updated the ECU and tweaked the TPS. They claimed to have ridden it several times, and admittedly when I picked it up, it seemed to be doing okay, but before I got home it was stuttering and sputtering again. Just gonna have to start riding with the GoPro on at all times so I can document the behavior.
 
Dealers. (shaking head sadly)
Not Guzzi related but dealer related.

I bought a 2015 Victory Gunner and after about 1500 to 2000 miles it developed a buzz / vibration at a certain RPM.
I found out that if I laid my hand on the tank or locked my knees against it the buzz would stop.

Went to the dealer & without any of the 3 techs test riding the machine they decided that I was actually hearing valve train noise.
Said that when I was locking my knees on the tank that it was blocking the noise.

I asked then why does it stop just by laying my hand on the tank?
No answer so finally they test ride it.

Yep, there is a vibration, 2nd guy rides it & so does the third guy & they all get the buzz.
Finally they pull the tank off & two of the mounting rubbers fall out & hit the ground.
Put them where they belonged & problem solved.

There are very few "Real Mechanics" anymore.

Interestingly I traded the Gunner on another Vic the Cross Country Tour & it also developed an annoying buzz at 2800 RPM.
Sounded like a swarm of bees. I laid my hand on the windscreen & it stopped.
Pulled the windscreen off & put rubber washers between the windscreen & the metal brackets.
Problem Solved.
Since then I've fixed 4 or 5 other Vic's with the same issue.
 
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