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V7 III Suspension Thread

mdhen said:
Right, I understand that any of these aftermarket shocks will be much better than the oem ones. My question was about the difference between nice regular twin shocks and nice ones with PBs. I'm not heavy (165 lbs) buy I do plan on doing a bunch of travel and camping with luggage so it won't always just be me.
Click to expand...
The Razor IV PB shocks are for those who really know and care enough about suspension to adjust them nearly every time they ride. Based on your use, the Razor III would be a stellar choice, and arguably the ride would not be better than the PB versions, for how you use your bike. Set and forget outside of spring preload based on your carrying load. Both versions have tremendous available travel, and superior damping over stock. TIA for the purchase.
 
mdhen said:
Hey guys. I am looking at getting some new shocks for my new '19 stone. I am probably going to go with k-techs with the rear - how much of a difference in ride will i see between the razor iii twin shocks and the razor iv piggyback twin shocks? Just wondering if the price diffference is worth it. Also wondering if the PB's will get in the way of mounting a rear rack? Probably will want either the oem rear rack or the givi one, but might get the H&B one.
Click to expand...
Best avoid the Givi Rack as it has to pass behind the shock to mount on the rear footrests. The OE shock is tapered at the top so if the new shock has a much wider diameter it will foul on the Givi rack.

Those racks that use the top eye on the shock should be OK. The OE and H&B racks (and perhaps others too) should fit. Best advice is to compare dimensions before purchase.

The Givi rack is a very strong design and about half the cost of the other two so it's a great pity it can't be used in combination with some after market shocks.
 
Thanks for letting me know about the givi rack. Looks like I will be getting the OEM one now.

Does anyone have any input on the quality of matris vs. k-tech? for the forks the matris kit is much cheaper and doesnt require an expensive install so wondering how much of a difference you would see between the two on a V7. The twin shocks I am assuming are probably pretty close in quality, is that correct?

matris fork kit + ktech rear twins is looking like the most frugal premium option at the moment.
 
mdhen said:
Does anyone have any input on the quality of matris vs. k-tech? for the forks the matris kit is much cheaper and doesnt require an expensive install so wondering how much of a difference you would see between the two on a V7. The twin shocks I am assuming are probably pretty close in quality, is that correct?
matris fork kit + ktech rear twins is looking like the most frugal premium option at the moment.
Click to expand...
That would be me since I sell and install them weekly. Both are very good. Matris brings a level of finish that rivals everyone on the market. They are jewel-like, internally as well. That said, will you notice a difference for how you'll use it, probably not. Unless you care a great deal about the looks, you won't go wrong with the K-Techs, but I'll sell you either. Something about keeping the brands front to rear the same. The K-Tech fork kit is decent, but is very labor intensive on the install. The Matris kit is drop-in and ride. Hope that helps. Thanks in advance for the order.
 
If I were to lower the suspension on my V7III, is there a corresponding side stand? The stock one already holds the bike more vertical than I would like.

doc
 
Looking for more information on the difference installing these two kits:

One looks like it comes with a different spacer, spring, adjuster and flow regulator ?
https://gtmotocycles.com/collections/suspension/products/matris-v7-full-fork-kit
- different spring rates, preload adjustment, and a change in “valveing “

The other one looks like it comes with a different spacer, NO spring, adjuster and flow regulator ?
https://gtmotocycles.com/collections/suspension/products/matris-v7-fork-kit
- preload adjustment, and a change in “valveing “

They both say drop in , looking at pick of the forks:
-15 looks like the flow regulator - so it’s not quite open the fork top remove the existing tube & spring and screw in the adjuster ?
It would look like the plunger needs to come out, I would think that would require complete disassembly of the front end ?
How does the plunger assembly come out ?
Does it just “fall out”
84461D8E-F587-4317-A270-D6C8DD3C47C8.webp
Thanks
Don
 
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DeadEye said:
They both say drop in , looking at pick of the forks: -15 looks like the flow regulator
Click to expand...
Incorrect. Google damper rod. #15 does not come out with either kit (and it's incorrectly shown in the diagram as to positioning), that’s the lower bushing that centers the damper rod and helps create an oil tight seal. The FKE kit is truly drop in once the caps are removed. The F15K kit requires removal of the damper rod (#16), in which is easiest to remove the forks to do, but the tube and slider do not get separated. Drop in means no additional machining required like most other kits on the market.
From there, more support comes from purchasing the kit from us. ;)
 
KonaDoc said:
If I were to lower the suspension on my V7III, is there a corresponding side stand? The stock one already holds the bike more vertical than I would like.
doc
Click to expand...
No, but the US side-stand has an aggressive lean, so altering the kickstand when lowering the bike it isn't needed, in my vast experience doing them in the shop. We can mod one for you if you want to send us yours, or purchase one from us, send a direct email (not a reply here); Info @GuzziTech.com
 
GTM® said:
Incorrect. Google damper rod. #15 does not come out with either kit (and it's incorrectly shown in the diagram as to positioning), that’s the lower bushing that centers the damper rod and helps create an oil tight seal. The FKE kit is truly drop in once the caps are removed. The F15K kit requires removal of the damper rod (#16), in which is easiest to remove the forks to do, but the tube and slider do not get separated. Drop in means no additional machining required like most other kits on the market.
From there, more support comes from purchasing the kit from us. ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, and I guess a can’t be so “Lazy” as to not take the forks off, drain the oil, when ever I end up getting the parts...
 
Sorry I'm rambling -
Google found me the LInk to you post in the "fork kit install" thread - I was the one that made the incorrect interpretation that at Lower bush looked like the Flow restrictor in the Kit.

To help me understand whats happening here / there - that Flow restrictor. is controlling the flow of oil out of the top of the fork ? Body ?
like normal mechanism is controlling it in the lower part of the ?body ?
A neat solution to add/increase damping control, required by stiffer springs.
( in the case of the complete kit)
 
DeadEye said:
To help me understand whats happening here / there - that Flow restrictor. is controlling the flow of oil out of the top of the fork ? Body ?
Click to expand...
See above on Google searching damper rod.
 
I just got a V7iii delivered by van from a few thousand Kilometers away where it appears it was tightly strapped down for 7 days of bouncing
and a good portion of the fork oil exited the forks ( i register no sag when sitting on the bike and front end is not smooth more "sticky in its motion)
i'm figuring on pulling the forks and changing oil out with some new 15wt (im a solid 110kg and like a firm ride)
i believe i'm looking at 120mm from top of compressed fork with internals removed?
any other tricks for old Noobs ?
Thanks
 
Electricpuha said:
I just got a V7iii delivered by van from a few thousand Kilometers away where it appears it was tightly strapped down for 7 days of bouncing
and a good portion of the fork oil exited the forks
Click to expand...
Congrats on the bike(!). Hope you’ll add your info to the Registry page; https://guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v7-registry-picture-thread-add-your-bike.9108/

If the oil leaked, you will need new fork seals, as they are likely “blown” from the pressure, and will leak again unless replaced. Unfortunate news to tell you. From there, the info above is correct and also noted earlier in this thread as to quantity. Hope to see you painting often.
 
I have a 2017 Speed racer and never really got the rear suspension setting right.
I weigh about 180 pounds.
Help on the settings would be appreciated
Gary in BC Canada
 
What should I be setting my sag numbers to? V7iii with matris forks and matris shocks.

I put my rears to 31 earlier today and that was definitely too much
 
Going to swap out the stock shocks with a shinny Black set of Todd
GTM 2WS Twin Shocks
Looks pretty basic, the mounting H/W doesn't hold anything else in place...
So just support the bike and do one side at a time ?
nothing else - bushing goo to lubricate the attachment points , lock tite Blue ?
What torque on the bolts ?

The Hex bolts seem to bottom out in place, and why one 1/2 “ bolt on the lower left ?
“Because it’s Italian” ?
 
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