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V85TT GTM SAS Delete

GTM®

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GT di Razza Pura
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Purchase and more info here;

For our full fueling solution, we recommend the UpMap AND PC6/AT-300 -- see our dyno-proven results;


We recommend starting by completing the evap/tip system resolve, which includes tank removal instructions for below, here; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v85tt-evap-and-tip-info.19893/ -- once done, and tank still removed:

Below is for the '19-20 E4 model ONLY. For the E5 models, we HIGHLY recommend leaving all valves plugged in to the factory harness, and leave them open ended to atmospheric air. Do NOT cap or seal them. So in short, replace the block-off plates, and remove the rubber lines from the plates to the valve, and remove the line from the valve to the air box, and cap ONLY there.

1. Locate and unhook SAS pump connections (electrical and rubber hoses), unplug oil pressure and head temp sensors (shown in step 2 below) and unbolt cylinder block off plates (one on each cylinder, left circled below):
0C312B2E-EF0C-4A19-9AE5-4CBDC754F287.jpeg
2. Remove SAS pump (slide left off of rubber mount studs, better seen in step 3 below), hoses and air supply plates, this includes the connection to the air box in step 6 below.
0334EC58-CC03-4A46-BDE0-9C47A8CD739F.jpeg
3. Pump removed as shown, along with air supply plates. It's easiest to unplug the oil pressure sensor, and head temp sensors as shown below. Carefully note or photograph the connectors to insure proper reconnection.
06EE7105-1946-4E11-B6B2-167570CECA8E.jpeg
4. Each cylinder port should look like below, for step 5 below.
DBC304A3-39C1-4781-A1C1-E0428156BAE3.jpeg
5. Transfer the valve plate to each GTM supplied CNC block-off plate, note orientation when removed and fit for larger radius, (inverted for pic) top right, as shown for each side.
C548F5C4-CC1B-4A0A-973B-1C35FAA220A6.jpeg
6. On the air box intake connection spigot to the SAS pump, cap per second pic below.
87C3B517-C164-4A10-AACC-DF7E8BB5F636.jpeg
5269E5EA-46C8-4661-A26D-0EB2D8D588B5.jpeg
7. Plug in supplied pigtail connector to stock wiring harness connector, and secure as desired. Left block-off plate shown, the right is a little hard to get to, and tough to photograph. Be sure to reconnect the oil pressure and head temp sensors, and reinstall tank. End.
E1D09516-5863-4481-8FFD-C85DF97777B7.jpeg
 
Greetings......I apologize that this is probably a rather rudimentary question....but what *is* the SAS, and what are the advantages of deleting it?

You can also read the reviews here;

 
In addition to what Todd posted previously, the other thing SAS does is pre-burn exhaust gasses to improve the efficiency/lifespan of the catalytic converter. If you've replaced your exhaust with one that DOES NOT have a catalytic converter, then the SAS system provides zero useful benefit, as the SAS and cat are intended to work together. Leaving the SAS intact if you've deleted the cat is utterly pointless, and will only make your bike sound like crap due to excessive decel popping. Some people seem to like this popping because they imagine it makes it sound like they have a race motor or something. To me, the excessive popping sounds like trash... as if there is leak in y our exhaust headers (which, in effect, is exactly what the SAS is... a "controlled" exhaust leak).

Some of the car "tuners" around here seem to like putting new open exhausts on their "fast & furious" type cars, but leave the SAS in place. The result is every time they let off the gas, it sounds like a machine gun going off. Again, they think it's "cool"... I think it just makes it sound like they have no idea how to tune a car.

__Jason
 
In addition to what Todd posted previously, the other thing SAS does is pre-burn exhaust gasses to improve the efficiency/lifespan of the catalytic converter. If you've replaced your exhaust with one that DOES NOT have a catalytic converter, then the SAS system provides zero useful benefit,
Well, not fully true. The SAS is an air leak that pumps air into the exhaust chamber and cools the top of the exhaust valve. I've seen many top of valves that are flour powder white. I have to imagine this will cause a long term issue.
 
For anyone wondering, the right front bolt is definitely the hardest to get out, so much stuff in the way it's hard to get a straight shot.
View attachment 22457
Have to agree with that Matthew. I tried and tried to no avail so I took off valve cover, valve train and cylinder head and did it on the bench.
Everything is back together and the bike is running so good. I’m going for a long ride tomorrow. Ripper.
One thing I noticed was after install and three start ups the engine management light came on and the bike wouldn’t start. The battery was over 2 years old and never had trickle charge (slack me) so new battery in and problem solved. Beautiful.
I have to say I’m a yobbo and don’t recommend this method it just worked for me
 
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Have to agree with that Matthew. I tried and tried to no avail so I took off valve cover, valve train and cylinder head and did it on the bench.
Everything is back together and the bike is running so good. I’m going for a long ride tomorrow. Ripper.
One thing I noticed was after install and three start ups the engine management light came on and the bike wouldn’t start. The battery was over 2 years old and never had trickle charge (slack me) so new battery in and problem solved. Beautiful.
I have to say I’m a yobbo and don’t recommend this method it just worked for me
Disassembling the engine is not in the cards for me.

I was able to get it out with a ball end Allen key and a homemade long arm/stubby Allen key - you can break the tension on the bolt by coming in from the valve cover side with the stubby Allen key.

Reverse process will hopefully not be too traumatic.
 
See above. Though it may show it as removed above, it does NOT need to be removed. Install as is from the OEM cap/plate.
 
Hi Guys

I installed the SAS on my 2021 V85TT (E5) (and yes I bought the right Kit) and the response was awesome... I ran it for less than 3-4 kms and upon reaching a few Higer rev´s.... "CHECK ENGINE LIGHT" came on.
That begs the obvious question- did you leave your SAS pump plugged in? It has to stay plugged in or it will trigger check engine light. Few of us here made that mistake already, I did that on purpose to confirm as well LOL
 
Definitely leave it in place and hooked up otherwise you will get a nice orange engine light on your dash😬... this applies to E5's of course.

In regards to the EVAP, there are a few ways to skin this cat. For me, and I repeat for me, I ran the tank vent hose - the hose with the TIP valve to atmosphere by connecting a hose join and extra fuel hose to run down nice and neat next to the overflow fuel tank line that runs down near the rear brake pedal..looks nice and factory😉👌 some leave the fuel line going to the EVAP can so it takes in the nice fuel smells but it doesn't worry me...if your bike sits in a fairly enclosed area this might be a better option.

On the note of the SAS plates, you will notice in one corner the plate is rounded not squared where the insert goes...that will give you the orientation to where to put the OEM insert in
 
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