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Wheel offset and spoke torque specs?

Nedmac briskov

Nedmac briskov

Fired up and twisty
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A while back I hit a log in the road at about 70mph. Which dented my front rim, and threw my rear wheel out of true. Gonna have to adjust my spokes. anyone know where I can find the wheel offset and spoke torque specs on a 19’-20’ v85tt?
 
Spokes are set up on a truing stand. More an art than a science. I suggest taking or sending the wheel to a shop that specializes in wheel repair. There are several in the US. Also yu might consider this an oppertune time to change to cast wheels.
 
I am able to do the repairs myself, it’d just be nice to know the specs. You can usually get away without the torque specs and go by feel and sound. But particularly the wheel offset would be good to know.

And I’m sticking with spokes because had my wheels been cast, they would have been damaged to an unrideable point. I still daily ride on my my current set as the damage is minimal.
 
If your rim is dented it needs to be replaced. I've built dozens of spoked wheels and never used a torque wrench. There are too many variables that affect spoke preload using the torque spec method.

If you're close to Katy, Texas I can lace up and true a new front rim for you.

Jason
 
JasonC said:
If your rim is dented it needs to be replaced. I've built dozens of spoked wheels and never used a torque wrench. There are too many variables that affect spoke preload using the torque spec method.

If you're close to Katy, Texas I can lace up and true a new front rim for you.

Jason
Click to expand...
If you were to lace up a new rim for me, where would you obtain the specs for wheel offset?
 
You would need to measure one at your local dealer.
Front wheel seems to be centered------36 spokes & nipples all same pt #
Rear is offset, 18 of 2 sizes, one 5mm longer than the other.
I would just lace them w/parts and make it work, it's not rocket science. Go to dealer & measure.
 
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A torque spec on spokes if you could even find it, is useless in reality.

Hub offset is not on every spoke wheel.

What Moto Guzzi wheel are you trying to lace?

Do you really mean “runout”?

I build wheels and true wheels quite frequently.

You work a spoke, skip 2, then the next, skip 2…all the way around.

Some will be tighter than others as you bring the wheel into alignment and minimize lateral runout by setting spoke tensions either inboard or outboard sides.

Once you have that corrected for, you then compensate for vertical runout (hop) in an entirely different way.

If every spoke had a “torque value” and you set every spoke the same, and worked spokes in alternating (180 degree apart spokes) tightening the spokes to the same tension, then the wheel would be crooked as hell.

The tension on a given spoke is not the same across the spokes.

Wheelwright work is an art form and not a torque value.

If you don’t understand this, then I believe that you will never get a wheel true.

Sorry.
 
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