• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Why not an inline external oil filter?

S

Sanders63

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 20, 2012
Messages
72
Location
Arkansas
Once again, :)
Since I am going to be changing oil once a month ( every 3,000 miles) then why can't I put a external oil filter inline with the hose coming out of the block to the cyclinders/heads as you would an oil cooler ( am probably going to add one) ? change that one every 3,000 miles and change the one in the oil pan once a year or every 6 months. B)
 
Because the second filter you are considering is pointless. The oil is drawn from the sump through the pump,delivered to the filter then the rest of the oil system.The second filter is therefore only going to be seeing filtered oil anyway. It wont make the sump filter do any less work as its the first filter in the system to see oil from the sump.
A bit like having a second tea strainer under the first one. The tea leaves are captured by the first strainer and the second one sees only clean tea.
If the sump filter filtered down to say 20 microns and the proposed second filter down to 5 or 10 microns then there might be a point but every filter you add to the system is another restiriction.
A decent filter only needs repalcement every second oil change anyway.
If you run a fully synthetic group 4 oil then you could run to 6000 mile change intervals as well with no issues.
Ciao
 
:huh: Ok,
I see what you are saying and I understand the point.
This is a 1996 engine and the experience I have had with older engines when going to pure synthetic oil is that all of a sudden you have oil leaks, that you did not have previously. ( A 1978 R100 BMW airhead comes to mind :eek: )

The second concern is: Even changing the filter every 6,000 miles, I am still looking at dropping the pan a minnimum of 4 times a year.
I am already very anxious when I drop the pan because the previous owner over tightened the 4 bolts in the center of the oil pan. I am not relishing trying to repair those threads, because of where they are located. :unsure:

The cost of oil or the labor involved is not my concern. The wear & tear of bolts going in & out of aluminum blocks is my concern.
Suggestions welcome ;)
 
Don't know if they make one for your motor but there a few kits out there that move the oil filter to an external location.
 
;) Yep,
Harpers has the outsider sump spacer and MG Cycle Parts has a sump spacer with the filter to the front of the Engine :huh:
Harpers is $329.55 & MGs is $ 240.05..
Thanks for the input, trying to defer money to other things, but looks like one of these will be it. B)
 
:eek: Heck I have just gotten old & dense!
They make spin on bypasses for moving oil lines and filters on hot rods.
Why not just get a spin on bypass, then install an in line oil filter in front of an oil cooler? ;)
How about that one guys?
 
If your oil filter is inside your sump and you mount a spin on adapter to run the oil lines to an in-line filter and cooler, wouldn't that also be inside the sump?
I do not see what you are going to accomplish....
Best of luck.
 
The oil filter is in the bottom of the oil pan (sump) mounted up side down. If I put a spin on bypass (does not filter the oil, just passes it through the existing plumbing) then I put the filter on the line coming out of the top of the cases that feed the cylinder/heads. Thus moving the oil filter from inside the oil pan (sump) to the outside of the the engine inexpensively & allowing for no hassle oil & filter changes every 3,000 miles or once a month.

This way I am not chancing damage to the block by by removing and installing bolts into the aluminum block every month.
Normally you would install an oil cooler on the same line, so I will install a filter & an oil cooler on the line :)
Now how does that sound for an easy outside oil filter solution? B)
Let me know your thoughts ;)
 
Sanders63 said:
I am already very anxious when I drop the pan because the previous owner over tightened the 4 bolts in the center of the oil pan. I am not relishing trying to repair those threads, because of where they are located. :unsure:

The cost of oil or the labor involved is not my concern. The wear & tear of bolts going in & out of aluminum blocks is my concern.
Suggestions welcome ;)
Click to expand...

Could you replace those bolts with studs?
 
Don't think studs would work, good idea though it is, I reckon the extra diameter involved with a nut would foul the crankcase and you'd probably need further clearance to get a wrench/socket onto the nut.

I don't think all the oil goes to the heads so therefore you'd be only partially filtering the oil plus unfiltered oil will going through bottom end bearings.

I have an "outsider" as its called but usually drop the sump anyway to clear out the pan, your only doing it every 6k miles or so. Although an anathema to non Guzzi riders its amazing the amount of sludge you find in the pan and its nice to get rid of it all so the engine is not having to deal with all that crap that just doesn't get drained.

Might go part of the way for Guzzi's famed reliability and length of engine life (among the Guzzitista anyway).

If you want to go to an outside filter I'd get the Harpers extender kit or the MG V sump. Both have the lines cast into the part which is the way to go. There was a bub filter (I think its called) eons back which used hoses, bad news a few folks wrecked there engine when a hose came off reducing pressure instantly to zero.

I know its a weird Guzzi thing but once you've done it a few times you no longer look on it as a big deal.

Be interested to know what you come up with.

John
 
:huh: I had not thought about, all the oil might not travel through the lines exiting the case to the cyclinders and heads. Who could answer that question :?:
I did't think about the studs idea either. You could use shoulder nuts with washers on the studs. ;)
The problem would be finding the nuts, although you could use a spacers, washers & standard nuts.
I need to think on this one. :roll:
 
Only some of the oil goes to the heads, the rest of it goes to your main bearings. Do you want to send unfiltered oil there?
I would not do that.
 
Yes the oil does go to the main bearings and the heads, but the oil is recirculated, so the filtered oil will end up going to the main bearings also. It is not a seperate system, as far as I know.
If it is clean oil to start out, then the filtered oil to the heads becomes the oil to the mainbearings, because it is continually mixed and recirculated.
If I am wrong in this thinking please explain. :)
 
If you take the sump off your Guzzi (or pretty much any IC motor) you will typically find various sludges and particles. Anytime something comes loose from where it is supposed to be it ends up in the sump. If half your oil from the sump gets filtered and sent to the heads and the other half does not get filtered and gets sent to the main bearings I figure you have a 50/50 chance that the particle will get filtered out instead of sent to your main bearings. If you like those odds then that's your choice. I would not play those odds.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top