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Wont Start...

Electrical gremlins are the worse ones to find but starting with the last change you made is a good start.

Perhaps it is not the spliced connection and the wire itself to the top box. I think the Givi's use a contact type disc to transfer power to the tail bag vs a plug in type. Make sure it is not shorting out there or they pinched a wire to the box. The tail lights are on that fuse so it is a good place to start.
 
Well I may have fixed, or at least isolated the problem to the GIVI brake lights. You are right they are a sprung contact system, rather than a plug. I had a previous problem with those, that the vibey Stelvio caused the original sprung connections to wear so much they stopped working (people told me prior that they were 'flashing') . I replaced the contacts only about 4 months ago, and they are working OK - but maybe the vibrations are causing intermittent connection and somehow blowing the fuse. I would not have thought so, as the draw from LEDs is so low. I've had them disconnected today, and over about 2 x 35km commute trips, didnt have any problem at all. I'll reconnect them tomorrow and see if the problem reoccurs. The wiring for these, otherwise seems to be fine.

Attached photos of the previous set of contacts showing the wear encountered. These are supposed to be shiny chrome sprung pins and plates - the sprung pins are in the recessed part of the connector. (some slight wear on current connectors, but nothing like this, and these pretty much worked up to this point of wear over 2 years)

Capture1.webp Capture2.webp
 
Sounds like a good place to start. The draw is low on the led once they are lit, but there is always a larger very short duration inrush current to the led driver when they start up. The duration is short so the fuse does not trip. If you quickly turn them on and off there may be enough constant inrush to blow the fuse. There is a lot on that fuse already so would not take much increased current to blow it. Constant inrush current would certainly do it.
 
Further to this issue:
My 2012 NTX stalled on me while taking off (it had started from cold perfectly fine and travelled about 300 metres), then when I tried to restart it I just got the ominous click from the relay. The dash lights up and seems to function fine, although all my settings were reset to default. I have checked all the fuses (yes, even the "hidden" ones, none blown) and ensured the battery was OK (Motobatt battery, Motobatt charger says it's OK). I have checked all the connections to the relays and the starter (all appear OK). Where do I go next? Could it be a dodgy relay? If so, how do I test them?
 
Tassie Mike said:
Further to this issue:
My 2012 NTX stalled on me while taking off (it had started from cold perfectly fine and travelled about 300 metres), then when I tried to restart it I just got the ominous click from the relay. The dash lights up and seems to function fine, although all my settings were reset to default. I have checked all the fuses (yes, even the "hidden" ones, none blown) and ensured the battery was OK (Motobatt battery, Motobatt charger says it's OK). I have checked all the connections to the relays and the starter (all appear OK). Where do I go next? Could it be a dodgy relay? If so, how do I test them?
Click to expand...

I've had the exact symptom you describe. It actually turned out to be a poor connection between the battery and the main motorcycle positive and negative cables.

I removed the cables from the battery, scrubbed them well with a wire brush, then scrubbed the battery posts very well with the wire brush, and for good measure, wire brushed the post screws as well. Every surface was throughly clean.

After careful and tight reassembly, I smeared the posts and connectors with petroleum jelly to prevent oxidation. No problem since.

FWIW - I am still running the factory 2012 battery which has lived its whole life on a battery tender. 5 years and still going strong.
 
Awesome! Glad to hear you found it.

I was taken aback at how everything on my bike seemed to be receiving current from the battery, dash worked, lights worked, but in actuality, it really wasn't enough at all, (hence that relay clicking sound instead of starting) yet the batter was showing a full charge! It was only when I cleaned and re-tightened those main wire connections, did my problems disappear. On my next maintenance rotation, I will clean and tighten the starter ones.

Thanks for the solution!
 
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