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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

pokeyjoe said:
I went to Yuasa's website and they specifically listed a range of 13v - 14.5v for charging. Some of these batteries are obviously taking a lot of abuse and are still working. Or ticking. Who knows what will happen or when.
Click to expand...

Good information on the charging voltage, so we at least know this higher voltage is not designed into the systems.

I'm going to call my shop and see if they looked at my bike and figured anything out. I'll keep this status posted on here.
 
Kev M said:
Here's a question. Does the circuitry in this regulator not adjust to system load and battery charge need?
Click to expand...

No it does not, it is a very crude resistor style VR. Stock battery is a Yuasa AGM, per...

pokeyjoe said:
I went to Yuasa's website and they specifically listed a range of 13v - 14.5v for charging. Some of these batteries are obviously taking a lot of abuse and are still working
Click to expand...
Thanks John, confirms what I was suspecting.
 
Shop called me and they ordered a new VR for the bike. They also checked 3 other V7 bikes regulators to see if this is a wide spread issue. They told me those other 3 bikes checked out normal with none charging over 14 volts.

So how wide spread not clear or at least not a wide spread issue according to this shop.

Reading this and another forum we have a few bikes with high voltage, something is not right to me about this.

Tod, let me know when you have something to replace this turd with.
 
Are the other V7's all '13-15 models?
elkgrichard said:
Tod, let me know when you have something to replace this turd with.
Click to expand...
Will do, should have something shortly. Picking up the VR's tomorrow, will need to order in the factory harness side plugs. I'll post again soon with updates.
 
vagrant said:
he said the 2015 and 16 are the same part #.
Click to expand...
It is, however newer batch versions from Guzzi have been decent for stock to stock. That said, I'm going to put the MOSFET versions on all of mine and any I come in contact with.
 
GT-Rx® said:
It is, however newer batch versions from Guzzi have been decent for stock to stock. That said, I'm going to put the MOSFET versions on all of mine and any I come in contact with.
Click to expand...

I remember when I had my 955i Sprint ST that the VR/RR's were also a problem with 2002 + Sprints.

The MOSFET was also the recommended upgrade along with relocation if possible.

Fortunately for me my 2001 still had the alternator.

Currently my V7 is in winter storage so I'll have to get it checked out.

Gerry
 
They told me two weeks maybe for my new VR. Hope it's a normal one. Bike remains in the shop for all that time. Lucky I've got my 2007 Triumph to ride.
 
I just checked my 2014 V7S (with a Centurian), and it shows 12.1V when the bike isn't running (as one would expect), and 15.3V at idle and also at 3,000 rpm. Which would seem to put it into the bad category. I've emailed my dealer and I'll post anything I find out from him here.

Last few times I had it out back in late fall (freezing rain ice storm here today) I noticed that it would occasionally not return to idle at a stop, but rev at maybe 2,500 or so. I could prevent that by leaving the clutch engaged when coming to a stop until the revs dropped down close to normal idle speed. And it didn't happen consistently, but often enough that it was noticeable. My question is, is the over-charging problem possibly related to this non-idle issue I've been seeing?
 
sturgeon said:
My question is, is the over-charging problem possibly related to this non-idle issue I've been seeing?
Click to expand...
I certainly would replace the VR, and 12.1v is low (perhaps a sign of battery abuse and early failure - I'd charge it fully and load test it). Idle is controlled by an onboard ECU "stepper motor" circuit - so not related, no. The MIU ECU download (for info) is available under the Downloads tab above.
 
Certainly it sounds like a lot of units are testing out of the range that even MG seems to claim is acceptable. I absolutely agree anyone seeing > 15 Volts should replace the VR. For sure that's what I'll do if mine tests that way.

But out of curiosity because I'm still chasing the reasoning behind the Guzzi specs and what we should consider "normal":

pokeyjoe said:
I went to Yuasa's website and they specifically listed a range of 13v - 14.5v for charging. Some of these batteries are obviously taking a lot of abuse and are still working. Or ticking. Who knows what will happen or when.
Click to expand...

Where'd you find that?

In their 2014 TechManual PDF the specifically say:

When considering upgrading to an AGM battery that was not original equipment on a vehicle, check to make sure the charging system has a regulated output between 14.0 and 14.8 volts.
Click to expand...

yuasabatteries.com/literature.php

specifically here:
yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2014.pdf
 
GT-Rx® said:
I certainly would replace the VR, and 12.1v is low (perhaps a sign of battery abuse and early failure - I'd charge it fully and load test it). Idle is controlled by an onboard ECU "stepper motor" circuit - so not related, no. The MIU ECU download (for info) is available under the Downloads tab above.
Click to expand...

I should add that with the battery fully charged and the bike off, a meter reads 13.05V, which is probably acceptable. All of my measurements were take at fairly cold ambient temps (around 3-4C), which probably also has an effect. I'll retry this in spring when temps are closer to 20C.
 
Todd; have you seen any evidence of damage or degradation to the wiring?
I'm going to install a new VR and want to use the original wire harness instead of running a new and separate wire to the battery.
if I run a new wire to the battery and also reconnect the old harness the positive voltage should reach all the same places I'll just be doubling up the wires to the battery. necessary or overkill?
Jack at roadster cycles recommends running new wires to the battery and ground but I'm not seeing the benefit
 
drlapo said:
Todd; have you seen any evidence of damage or degradation to the wiring?
Click to expand...
I have not, but I haven't dug deep either. The replacements I've done put the voltage right where it's supped to be at the battery.
Anything 2013+ I personally wouldn't bother to do the bypass. If I have to dig deeper at some point, I'll try to have a look at any (visible) connection issues, or those reading this, if you have the time, please do.
 
I see no visible evidence of damage to the conductors or insulation.
The connectors look good.
A simple resistance test with my ohm meter indicates no breaks or increased resistance
I don't think the wire harness was damaged
I did a diode check on the VR
I got 2 sets of numbers and 2 sets of 0
So that is correct
But the numbers are very far apart
One set is 201 and201
The other set is 569 and 564
I don't know what that means
 
A diode is basically a switch. It allows current to go one way, but not the other. The results you got are typical. They are not quantitative in any way. The fact that there is no resistance one way and some the other, tells you it works.
 
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