francod123
Cruisin' Guzzisti
The new one meaning which one? The v7II?
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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ
- Thread starterGTM®
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The new one meaning which one? The v7II?
Vagrant
GT Reference
2015 and 16 are they same part #. I don't remember if he said what one he stripped but at least he fired it up and checked it first.
R&R start to finish was 30 minutes. would have been the same to cut and splice as it was to get to the connectors under the front.
drawnverybadly
Just got it firing!
As for me, anything that gets my V7 on the road ASAP is what I would like. I don't mind crimping or soldering if a true plug and play product isn't possible within a few days, the days are getting nicer and nicer and I don't want to lose out on any riding
pokeyjoe
High Miler
REALLY confusing...
Vagrant
GT Reference
HOLD THE PRESSES! the 2015 and 16 have 7 wires. the white plug has 3 big yellow ones not 2. About 12 gauge. the black has 2 red with white stripe and 2 solid green. my guess 14 gauge.
other things I have seen compared to a 2013 are different rear shock mfg. with totally different springs and one adjusting color. air filter is under the seat with I think 4 screws to hold on cover similar to a Stelvio. at least it shows the MFG is making some changes for the better.
other things I have seen compared to a 2013 are different rear shock mfg. with totally different springs and one adjusting color. air filter is under the seat with I think 4 screws to hold on cover similar to a Stelvio. at least it shows the MFG is making some changes for the better.
99sh
Tuned and Synch'ed
Wiring is extremely easy. There are two connectors, one is a 3-pin, other 2-pin
The 2-pin connector is the Battery positive & ground
The 3-pin connector goes to your stator (yellow wires)
Note: my 2013 has a 2-phase stator, hence has 2 yellow wires. Most bikes (suspect the newer V7s) have the usual 3-phase stator. If you have a 2-phase unit, connect the 2 yellow wires to any of the 3 pins. If you have 3-yellow wires stock, you have a 3-phase unit and will connect each yellow wire to each pin on the regulator (order doesn't matter).
The 2-pin connector is the Battery positive & ground
The 3-pin connector goes to your stator (yellow wires)
Note: my 2013 has a 2-phase stator, hence has 2 yellow wires. Most bikes (suspect the newer V7s) have the usual 3-phase stator. If you have a 2-phase unit, connect the 2 yellow wires to any of the 3 pins. If you have 3-yellow wires stock, you have a 3-phase unit and will connect each yellow wire to each pin on the regulator (order doesn't matter).
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francod123
Cruisin' Guzzisti
did mine today. first I used the adapter plate from roadster cycle but then the VR fouled the engine guard bar so I just elongated the stock VR mounting holes; now everything clears. the plate will work fine if you don't have "crash bars"
the wiring is very basic and simple. just some soldering and crimping; not very technical.
the worst part is getting the tank off and fishing the old connectors out; its fiddly work
the mosfet unit is longer than the stock unit and the wires are a very tight fit around the front engine cover
I have a steady 14.2 volts now instead of 15.5
the wiring is very basic and simple. just some soldering and crimping; not very technical.
the worst part is getting the tank off and fishing the old connectors out; its fiddly work
the mosfet unit is longer than the stock unit and the wires are a very tight fit around the front engine cover
I have a steady 14.2 volts now instead of 15.5
My English is not enough to understand all the techinacl terms so i have to ask directly. Is this overcharging issue occurs on the 2. generation of V7. I recently bought a brand new 2015 model yerar V7Racer II and wonder taht i have to check the power charging values ?
pokeyjoe
High Miler
My V7 II is "OK". I believe its as high as 14.7v at 3K RPM. Yours may be OK as well, but it wouldn't hurt to check.
If people would rather make their own bracket and wire it up themselves, I'd say buy from one of the online vendors.
francod123
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Can you not leave it connected and put the new terminals on right where you cut it off at the old VR? More cumbersome but could be done and save the trouble of removing the tank, etc.
I would say no. There is not enough room to trim the wires stagger the joints solder crimp and shrink wrap it.
It's fiddly work but not difficult.
It took me 4 hours because I kept changing my mind on how to mount it and what size wire to use on the output side: I used10 ga.
I have an unused mounting plate that will work if you don't have crash bars on your bike.
The worst part is that my local radio shack closed so I couldn't get the connectors I wanted. I used hardware store connectors and stripped off the plastic sleeves and shrink wrapped the joints
It's fiddly work but not difficult.
It took me 4 hours because I kept changing my mind on how to mount it and what size wire to use on the output side: I used10 ga.
I have an unused mounting plate that will work if you don't have crash bars on your bike.
The worst part is that my local radio shack closed so I couldn't get the connectors I wanted. I used hardware store connectors and stripped off the plastic sleeves and shrink wrapped the joints
francod123
Cruisin' Guzzisti
shrink wrapping might not need to be done in this instance. I might try to tackle it without having to remove the harness.
99sh
Tuned and Synch'ed
From what I recall, I was able to get to the 2 connectors without removing the tank. Looking at the connectors now, there's easy open access. If you unbolt the VR itself, you have even more access.