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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

OK, update on my early delivery 2013 V7 Stone:

OK, REAL TEST (running voltage monitor) to follow later in this post.

BUT, last night/this morning I had the first indication that all might not be right.


It occurred to me when thinking about this last night that over the past few years that the V7 has been in the fleet that during the winter months when I rotate a Battery Tender through the bikes (I do that once a month, to each bike for a few hours or a day) that the V7 has always been the slowest to change from RED to flashing Green to solid Green.

I didn't think much of it because at first it wasn't far off from the Sportster, which in retrospect might have been a red flag since the Sportster battery was ALREADY 6 years old the day I brought the V7 home for the first time. By the time I noticed this similarity I think it was 8 years old!

So last night I go out to plug the charger in (changing of the month means it's time again, for reference the "nice" bikes - meaning the Duc and Goose - have been asleep since the end of Nov/beg of Dec when they salted the roads for the first time).

Last night I plugged the Battery Tender into the Goose and waited a few minutes, still RED, ok, I'll check back.

I checked an hour later, STILL RED - UH OHHH.

I checked 2 hours later, STILL RED - OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH.

I checked this morning - OK, it's GREEN.

I unplug the tender from the V7 and plug it into the 2 year older, couple of thousand less miles Ducati that gets ridden less often but which was charged within hours of the last time the V7 was charged AND - FLASHING GREEN BEFORE I EVEN GET TO THE GARAGE DOOR.


So that was my first indication that the battery in the V7 is NOT as healthy as the 2 year older battery in the Ducati.

At that point I kinda knew what I was going to find when I had a chance to test it this afternoon.

OK, so a cold start this afternoon gave me 15.4 Volts from 1-4k rpm.

I figured I've had it for years and it's probably always done this, so I took it for a ride (to drain the fuel a bit, I figure it's probably easier to pull the tank to do this anyway, and I might as well replace that fuel filter now if that's the case).

When I got back it was reading 12.8 volts at idle, but still 15.4 anywhere above that.

I need a voltage regulator, and I'm starting to believe I won't be alone.

My little bro Jay (JAS67 on WG) and Cam (from WG) are gonna test there's this week, but our assumption is that we'll be order 4 voltage regulators by next week.

Todd any plans (I think we'd be willing to wait a few weeks) or should we source it and handle it ourselves?
 
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OK, update on my early delivery 2013 V7 Stone:

OK, REAL TEST (running voltage monitor) to follow later in this post.

BUT, last night/this morning I had the first indication that all might not be right.


It occurred to me when thinking about this last night that over the past few years that the V7 has been in the fleet that during the winter months when I rotate a Battery Tender through the bikes (I do that once a month, to each bike for a few hours or a day) that the V7 has always been the slowest to change from RED to flashing Green to solid Green.

I didn't think much of it because at first it wasn't far off from the Sportster, which in retrospect might have been a red flag since the Sportster battery was ALREADY 6 years old the day I brought the V7 home for the first time. By the time I noticed this similarity I think it was 8 years old!

Last night I plugged the Battery Tender into the Goose and waited a few minutes, still RED, ok, I'll check back.

I checked an hour later, STILL RED - UH OHHH.

I checked 2 hours later, STILL RED - OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH.

I checked this morning - OK, it's GREEN.

I unplug the tender from the V7 and plug it into the 2 year older, couple of thousand less miles Ducati that gets ridden less often but which was charged within hours of the last time the V7 was charged AND - FLASHING GREEN BEFORE I EVEN GET TO THE GARAGE DOOR.


So that was my first indication that the battery in the V7 is NOT as healthy as the 2 year older battery in the Ducati.

At that point I kinda knew what I was going to find when I had a chance to test it this afternoon.

OK, so a cold start this afternoon gave me 15.4 Volts from 1-4k rpm.

I figured I've had it for years and it's probably always done this, so I took it for a ride (to drain the fuel a bit, I figure it's probably easier to pull the tank to do this anyway, and I might as well replace that fuel filter now if that's the case).

When I got back it was reading 12.8 volts at idle, but still 15.4 anywhere above that.

I need a voltage regulator, and I'm starting to believe I won't be alone.

My little bro Jay (JAS67 on WG) and Cam (from WG) are gonna test there's this week, but our assumption is that we'll be order 4 voltage regulators by next week.

Todd any plans (I think we'd be willing to wait a few weeks) or should we source it and handle it ourselves?

let us know what the filter looks like too. I have no desire to fix a filter on the 2015 for a few years.
ps. tank can be slid back about 3" and you can get into the neck easily with a hook to pull out the connectors.
 
BOTH of Jay's V7s tested out of range (15.3 and 15.5 respectively IIRC).

ONE of them is still under warranty and he's toying with getting a replacement OEM one just to see out of the box what happens. But he's also toying with just replacing both with a better one anyway. We should know more buy the weekend.

Cam can't test his till the weekend anyway. So we'll report back.
 
I changed the fuel filter in my V7this past weekend. 2 years old 3700 miles
The plastic is yellowed and swollen Probably would have failed this year
 
I changed the fuel filter in my V7this past weekend. 2 years old 3700 miles
The plastic is yellowed and swollen Probably would have failed this year

I had the dealer do mine at 3000 miles. Also yellowed, swollen and squishy.
 
I did, see above. It took replacement of the voltage regulator, cam sensor, battery and ECU/Throttle Body... All out of pocket for the owner.
Ok, I've read a lot of these posts so here is my 2 cents. 2013 V7 4600 miles original battery. Tested the output at idle 15,25 volts, reved to 2000rpm and voltage drops to 14.2,14.3. Does mean it's ok or is there still a problem?

So the V7II voltage regulator is the suggested replacement. Is it direct replacement (plug and Play). Do you stock those? If so how much are they? thanks
 
Ok, I've read a lot of these posts so here is my 2 cents. 2013 V7 4600 miles original battery. Tested the output at idle 15,25 volts, reved to 2000rpm and voltage drops to 14.2,14.3. Does mean it's ok or is there still a problem?

Redo the test.

If it really stays at 14.2-14.3 above idle you're good.

But it's a weird result.
 
Tested the output at idle 15,25 volts, reved to 2000rpm and voltage drops to 14.2,14.3. Does mean it's ok or is there still a problem?
So the V7II voltage regulator is the suggested replacement. Is it direct replacement (plug and Play). Do you stock those? If so how much are they? thanks
Larry, sometimes cold start will produce a high voltage. How old is the battery? My take on this is that the battery is on it's way out from abuse. What's the resting overnight voltage without charging it? Do you have a load tester?

I was on my way to offer a plug and play kit, but the DIY'ers here made me stop.
 
I just checked my 2016. Looks like the new wet alternators are 3-phase (three yellow wires).

I think from what Vagrant said earlier in this thread all the wet alternators (US 2015+) are 3-phase and share the same RR part number with the V7II.
 
So which one works on a 2013 since it looks like the V7II have a different VR? Is that one above for a 2013?
I think the v7II uses a different one . It has 3 yellow wires instead of 2...but i m no electrician. I m waiting a go ahead from someone who bought this:
SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA and i will order it instantly...
 
Does my bike has a permanent magnet rotor and a 3 wire stator? Its the question of the seller of the mosfet vr...i understand nothing of these things
 
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The shindengen fh020aa is the one to buy for those DIY-ing . It's been said many times over already. If you have three yellow wires then each yellow wires goes into the three pin socket. If you only have two then one in each pin and plug the third. Then I'm assuming you have 4 other wires? They're just doubled up so you twist each together with its double and therefore you'll have essentially two wires to crimp which leaves you with enough pins in the other socket.
 
I ordered the shindengen mosfet fh020aa unit...now i ll work on the back plate to be fitted on
 
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