Robert Villiard
Tuned and Synch'ed
Totally works
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Brake rotor pulsing - resolved
- Thread starterncassidy
- Start date
Vagrant
GT Reference
I'm sure it's covered way back here but, along with the above scrub the crap out of the rotors with sandpaper and flush clean. Every time you get the rotors red hot stopping for a light and sit there with pressure on the brake or even not some of the bonding agent sticks to the rotors. I try to approach with one brake front or rear then roll back or forward a bit and use the other cold brake to hold in place if necessary.
I had some front brake shake on Sunday. I hardly even used the brakes until I recently installed a PC-V and Autotune 300.
Today I applied some light oil and spun the bobbins with a flat screwdriver until they felt smooth. I just went for a short ride and all is well. I'm pretty sure they are original pads and discs with 53,000 km. I bought the bike at 20K.
Today I applied some light oil and spun the bobbins with a flat screwdriver until they felt smooth. I just went for a short ride and all is well. I'm pretty sure they are original pads and discs with 53,000 km. I bought the bike at 20K.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2011
- Messages
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LOL - It’s hard to resist flying down the road when the bike runs like a scalded cat!
My Stelvio NTX with the same PC-V and Autotune 300, loves triple digit
speed but I try hard to control myself.
Bisbonian
Cruisin' Guzzisti
The fix for me was just replacing the stock pads with EBC HH pads. I didn't mess with any of the bobbins or anything like that. The change of pad material worked wonders on my 1200 Sport.
Ah what the heck. Old topic. First major fault I noticed with my new to me 07 Norge was this brake pulsing coasting to a stop at lights. Unnerving and dangerous. Not wanting to shell out for new disc i gave the bobbins a good cleaning and lube, scoured the braking surface, and deglazed the practically brand new EBC hh pads, scrubbed the caliper piston clean, changed and bled brake fluid. All of this netted 50% improvement.
I ended up ordering new Newfren disc and plan on installing a larger master cylinder. Looking forward to posting my results.
I ended up ordering new Newfren disc and plan on installing a larger master cylinder. Looking forward to posting my results.
Last edited:
tris
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Find a dry straight empty road, accerate to a decent speed that you're comfortable with and apply the brakes HARD.
Release the brakes before you stop and ride on, repeat 4/5 times
I tend to not be a heavy braker normally and feel that I never scrubbed the brake pad deposits on the disc off in normal use
PS be careful and don't bin it if you try this
Release the brakes before you stop and ride on, repeat 4/5 times
I tend to not be a heavy braker normally and feel that I never scrubbed the brake pad deposits on the disc off in normal use
PS be careful and don't bin it if you try this
rodhotter
Just got it firing!
no Guzzi yet but some bikes rotors look like floaters BUT are just 2 piece like my Vic Hammers as true floaters generally buzz on application. quality varies even with brand names depending on the spec $$ from the OE, + never wash hot brakes !!
Interesting.
This helped quite a bit. I did this several times on my commute home. Big improvement pulling up to stop lights after exiting the freeway. This morning under cold slow braking there was just a hint of the pulse.
I'll do the same today and then see if the improvement last.
I used to practice emergency brake and mauever drills on my other bikes in safe riding conditions. Need to do this more often on the Norge.
Vagrant
GT Reference
A touch of pulsing kicks the pads back out for no more drag. A good thing.
I have developed the habit of using one brake to stop, then the other to hold at a light etc. I will also roll a bit 5-10 seconds after stopping. I was told years ago that if the rotor isn't warped, the bobbins not frozen the problem is the glue that holds the pad material in shape is melting on the hot rotors then it sticks. That's why sometimes just dressing the rotors with coarse sandpaper or emery cloth fixes the issue.
I have developed the habit of using one brake to stop, then the other to hold at a light etc. I will also roll a bit 5-10 seconds after stopping. I was told years ago that if the rotor isn't warped, the bobbins not frozen the problem is the glue that holds the pad material in shape is melting on the hot rotors then it sticks. That's why sometimes just dressing the rotors with coarse sandpaper or emery cloth fixes the issue.
tris
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I'm glad it helped.
I tried all the other things too, but never was too happy.
As an aside, there used to be a company here that swore the brake pulsing was caused by the disc thickness varying.
I was never quite sure as to the facts/evidence for that
rodhotter
Just got it firing!
that procedure is similar to bedding new pads but you start at lower speeds + increase the speed + as noted cooling in between. this also helps set your rings as a low mile Vic Hammer i bought was using some oil + on a back road i accelerated + decelled with a cooling cruise between + no more oil use!!!
I have used that procedure on numerous vehicles (with both 2- and 4-wheels) over the years. I have inadvertently “warped” rotors on 4X4’s by crossing streams while brakes are still hot from sustained downhill braking. The sudden cooling can cause pulsing brakes and the fix is to get them hot again by repeated use without coming to complete stop and allow them to cool by driving.
Must update. Per Todd's advice I had GTM replace my old rotors with brand new Newfren rotors from this forums shop. OMG what a difference. Money well spent. No comparison.
Also:
I had replaced the higher spec Ducati Brembo MC Todd had installed on the bike years ago with a stock Norge MC so I could run stock mirrors. A mistake. Initial bite was fine. Very firm lever but hard braking was wooden with very little advantage squeezing harder on the lever.
Just reinstalled the higher spec MC and all is well. A softer squeeze with more progressive stopping power.
I'll add photos soon.