Below is a general outline on how to free the tank ventilation; Not only rid it of that awful moaning sound when sitting in the sun, but to allow it to fuel better by plugging the intake air leak in 10 simple steps. Should take ~1-2 hrs max.
Step 1: Unbolt the chrome tank trim.
Step 2: Remove trim, by sliding back towards the seat. Tab shown below that secures it, along with the rubber bushing, just above center of the gas cap opening in the picture.
Step 3: Unbolt steering head covering from the tank.
Step 4: Remove lower clips of head covering. These push-clips can be popped out by pushing from the inside out as shown below.
Step 5: Pull back head covering. We use a small bungee strap instead of removing them, which you can do if you prefer.
Step 6: Remove the tank bolt. WARNING/NOTE (not shown) remove the outer cosmetic valve cover covers as to not scratch them.
Step 7: Lift the tank up and slightly rearward to expose the tip valve, which resides on the upper right front of the tank (as shown below). The tank does not need to be removed, but can be if you'd like to ease some of the frustration. You can either remove the valve or pop it apart (by heating it and using a small screw-driver along the locking seam) and remove the internals as shown in the next step below. Or you can use a straight fitting. You may need a set of additional hose clamps.
Tip valve internals:
While you have the tip-valve apart, I recommend making sure that the breather line will flow air when blown into in the downward direction (towards the evap cann). More then one have shown to be plugged. If yours is plugged, be sure to do step 10 below. Also see the new pinched line photos below.
Plugging the leak:
Step 8: After removing the right side throttle body trim, the vacuum port can be seen on the intake body plenum.
Step 9: You can either cut the hose downstream and use a bolt to plug the line, or best to remove the breather banjo, and plug the hole with a M6 x 1.0 bolt.
Step 10 (Optional but recommended): Since the evap can is well buried under the battery, easy access to the breather tubes can be found under the left side starter cover. Remove the cover by unbolting the four (4) allen-head bolts (and popping off the shift linkage by removing the simple circlip), and you will see the lines shown below. The line with the two crimp-clamps and brass connector is from the intake plenum (and can be removed if desired), and the yellow arrow line is the tip valve. Follow this line rearwards, and I recommend cutting it where it turns upwards just past the swing arm pivot close to where it disappears into the plastic shroud, and secure it facing downwards. Double check by blowing into it and be sure it exhales easily to be sure it is not pinched. Re-assemble and ride. The End (Kind of, see below).
Folks, an update to post here (9.20). I had a 1400 in the shop today with 100 miles on it. On the line from the tip valve to the evap canister, the line had been pinched completely closed by the side peg plates, so the tank was not venting at all on this one. The bike lives in Las Vegas, so you might imagine what torture it provided for our new friend Ross. So, FYI, check yours if you are still struggling with tank venting issues, even if you do the first part of this thread. Pics below show position and an attempt to show how pinched.
Step 1: Unbolt the chrome tank trim.
![CalEvap1 CalEvap1](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4778-9ab28929c2e43aa53034971caf997de1.jpg)
Step 2: Remove trim, by sliding back towards the seat. Tab shown below that secures it, along with the rubber bushing, just above center of the gas cap opening in the picture.
![CalEvap2 CalEvap2](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4779-2b11effaba418509b454c2a76a9ab9aa.jpg)
Step 3: Unbolt steering head covering from the tank.
![CalEvap3 CalEvap3](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4780-fa2d8374f38b78adbd6b80671a7f3013.jpg)
Step 4: Remove lower clips of head covering. These push-clips can be popped out by pushing from the inside out as shown below.
![CalEvap4 CalEvap4](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4781-d9b5f7f01b9a8c7da5eb04c5c6d93d40.jpg)
Step 5: Pull back head covering. We use a small bungee strap instead of removing them, which you can do if you prefer.
![CalEvap5 CalEvap5](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4782-25ee28638cd44183ac34c7a7293c5ad2.jpg)
Step 6: Remove the tank bolt. WARNING/NOTE (not shown) remove the outer cosmetic valve cover covers as to not scratch them.
![CalEvap6 CalEvap6](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4783-a601cb351415d636b5d23f94cc8ca2c9.jpg)
Step 7: Lift the tank up and slightly rearward to expose the tip valve, which resides on the upper right front of the tank (as shown below). The tank does not need to be removed, but can be if you'd like to ease some of the frustration. You can either remove the valve or pop it apart (by heating it and using a small screw-driver along the locking seam) and remove the internals as shown in the next step below. Or you can use a straight fitting. You may need a set of additional hose clamps.
![CalEvap7 CalEvap7](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4784-127a75bb41dd27296af39dcf3e638f77.jpg)
Tip valve internals:
While you have the tip-valve apart, I recommend making sure that the breather line will flow air when blown into in the downward direction (towards the evap cann). More then one have shown to be plugged. If yours is plugged, be sure to do step 10 below. Also see the new pinched line photos below.
![CalEvap8 CalEvap8](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4785-499cc3dd00e5af24820438fddb99d9ab.jpg)
Plugging the leak:
Step 8: After removing the right side throttle body trim, the vacuum port can be seen on the intake body plenum.
![CalEvap9 CalEvap9](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4786-b41c5b122ddea5333117f23f0b69e6a6.jpg)
Step 9: You can either cut the hose downstream and use a bolt to plug the line, or best to remove the breather banjo, and plug the hole with a M6 x 1.0 bolt.
![CalEvap10 CalEvap10](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4787-b5637f5a11da64b4a09262dca669d15c.jpg)
Step 10 (Optional but recommended): Since the evap can is well buried under the battery, easy access to the breather tubes can be found under the left side starter cover. Remove the cover by unbolting the four (4) allen-head bolts (and popping off the shift linkage by removing the simple circlip), and you will see the lines shown below. The line with the two crimp-clamps and brass connector is from the intake plenum (and can be removed if desired), and the yellow arrow line is the tip valve. Follow this line rearwards, and I recommend cutting it where it turns upwards just past the swing arm pivot close to where it disappears into the plastic shroud, and secure it facing downwards. Double check by blowing into it and be sure it exhales easily to be sure it is not pinched. Re-assemble and ride. The End (Kind of, see below).
![CalEvap11 CalEvap11](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/4/4788-47d11ae6b52f0e2827eda413c35b1637.jpg)
Folks, an update to post here (9.20). I had a 1400 in the shop today with 100 miles on it. On the line from the tip valve to the evap canister, the line had been pinched completely closed by the side peg plates, so the tank was not venting at all on this one. The bike lives in Las Vegas, so you might imagine what torture it provided for our new friend Ross. So, FYI, check yours if you are still struggling with tank venting issues, even if you do the first part of this thread. Pics below show position and an attempt to show how pinched.
![C14 EvpPinch1 C14 EvpPinch1](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/22/22185-9350a52300263f0bfd5d07af41dff73c.jpg)
![C14 EvpPinch2 C14 EvpPinch2](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/22/22186-baf241ee5c7db0ffedbdd6de82606778.jpg)
![C14 EvpPinch3 C14 EvpPinch3](https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/data/attachments/22/22187-c5343ad8f23b798deb51b759bfcf031d.jpg)