Loosy gussi, opening the valve lash might help cover up the problem for a while but you start to introduce some pounding in the valve train and you will start changing the valve timing events which will take you down a whole other slippery slope. Then what are you going to do with the right hand cylinder?
Lapping or grinding the valves might help if yours has the same problem. But remember, they replaced the entire head on mine. If your head has a different problem, a valve job might not fix it. A non concentric valve guide MIGHT NOT get corrected this way whereas a seat that was pressed in slightly off might grind true, but what if your head has a tiny crack or a mis-cast or mis-drilled guide alignment, or a stem that is just a few thousandths too long? While my money would still be on the valve/seat interface, all I can tell you for sure is that EVERYTHING between the head gasket and the rocker arms was replace on mine and the problem vanished. With that said, if yours is out of warranty, why not try lapping? If you already have a stick and compound it will be practically free. Just a couple of gaskets. Being the cautious type, I personally would still take the head to a machinist and tell him your suspicions and have some very precise measuring done in all planes. It will cost a little but if lapping doesn't fix it you'll end up back there anyway. And you've still saved all the R&R labor. Lastly, I suppose you could instead replace the entire head but, out of warranty, I'd hate to pay what a head assembly would cost. I'm pretty sure mine was north of $1,100.00 just for the head, guides, valves, keepers and springs. The whole job was well over $2,000.00 of warranty billing.