Mike Tryon
Eldorado FTW!
For me it was a temp sensor in-between the jugs.
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California 1400 hanging throttle
- Thread starterguzziken
- Start date
sir fred
Cruisin' Guzzisti
kiwi dave
GT Reference
Not quite true, it's actually a single pole double throw switch, which has one circuit normally closed that opens when the clutch lever is pulled, and the other circuit which is open and is closed when the clutch lever is pulled.
I experienced the dreaded service icon and could not fathom what was wrong, as my switch appeared to be working on one side (I never checked the other side). It took a long time to diagnose.
The genuine part is expensive to replace. I found a Burgess V4LS micro switch was identical and was able to be wired into the existing loom when the faulty one was cut off.
sir fred
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Good info. $13.95 on Amazon vs $80 at AF1 Racing..and it is easy to check and replace!
Only time I've ever experienced the hanging throttle was about 30-60mins after returning from a ride. Outside temperature was modest <20C so bike did not overheat during ride. However leaving it off in the Garage for 30-60mins meant the heat in the engine had time to spread into all areas including the various temperature sensors. When I turned on the ignition, the LCD displayed showed a temperature of > 35C. When I started it and then revved it a little, the revs stuck at 3000. A quick blip had them drop back down. Repeating this over and over had the same effect until I let it cool down the next day, or took it for a ride to cool down. Fortunately the temperature here doesn't get that high so it's not a day to day problem for me, but I can reproduce the effect on demand.
First, I have a 2016 Audace. I have just read this thread from start to finish. I have expperienced most of the symptoms described in the following post at least to some degree..
"Here are my symptoms:
1. Throttle sticks at about 3K rpm when engine warm and coasting (such as down mountain grade) in gear. A throttle blip will remedy it.
2. Throttle hangs at about same RPM when engine warm and shifting (up or down) or engaging clutch.
3. Idle jumpy when re-starting after sitting warm
4. Idles high (about 2K) when warm and stopping to traffic light. She will settle down to 1200 rpm after 10 seconds or so."
I also find that my bike runs extremely well when it cool in the morning, both the air temp and the engine temp. As both warm up it does not run quite as smoothly. After a particularly hard run on a hot day it runs a bit rough. Also being shot down after one of these runs and being restarted say 10 minutes later it struggles for a few seconds to come to an even idle. As mentioned the temp sensor was the culprit in one case. This sure makes a lot of sense, to me anyway.
It has also been said that a map upgrade can help with this problem. I am sure it will but I am not so sure that this is the total solution. I am not up to total speed on remapping but a million Harley riders swear by it. I have also read somewhere, I don't remember where, that these bikes have a point between 2 and 3 thousand rpm where the ECM switches between open and closed loop for engine control. This does not allow for an easy transition from above 3,000 rpm to 2,000 rpm and below. It is in this range where I see most of the problems. I usually ride my bike either above 3,000 or below 2,000 to avoid these issues. Of course below 2,000 is only in first or second gear.
Prior to my Guzzi I had a couple of Twin Cam Harleys. One was 2006 which ran exclusively in open loop. It was a very smooth bike which I really liked but it was lost in a fire. I replaced it with a 2016 Softail. This bike was horrible at low rpm especially low gears. Much the same as my Guzzi but worse. One of the reasons I got rid of it among others.
I have no intention of dumping my Guzzi, it is the best bike I have ever owned. Even though I can live with the issues but it would be so much better if they didn't exist. I am not willing to spend a bunch of money trying to correct the problem. I spent a bit of money and many hours on my Harley trying to make it what it should have been from the factory. Rather ride than wrench.
kk
"Here are my symptoms:
1. Throttle sticks at about 3K rpm when engine warm and coasting (such as down mountain grade) in gear. A throttle blip will remedy it.
2. Throttle hangs at about same RPM when engine warm and shifting (up or down) or engaging clutch.
3. Idle jumpy when re-starting after sitting warm
4. Idles high (about 2K) when warm and stopping to traffic light. She will settle down to 1200 rpm after 10 seconds or so."
I also find that my bike runs extremely well when it cool in the morning, both the air temp and the engine temp. As both warm up it does not run quite as smoothly. After a particularly hard run on a hot day it runs a bit rough. Also being shot down after one of these runs and being restarted say 10 minutes later it struggles for a few seconds to come to an even idle. As mentioned the temp sensor was the culprit in one case. This sure makes a lot of sense, to me anyway.
It has also been said that a map upgrade can help with this problem. I am sure it will but I am not so sure that this is the total solution. I am not up to total speed on remapping but a million Harley riders swear by it. I have also read somewhere, I don't remember where, that these bikes have a point between 2 and 3 thousand rpm where the ECM switches between open and closed loop for engine control. This does not allow for an easy transition from above 3,000 rpm to 2,000 rpm and below. It is in this range where I see most of the problems. I usually ride my bike either above 3,000 or below 2,000 to avoid these issues. Of course below 2,000 is only in first or second gear.
Prior to my Guzzi I had a couple of Twin Cam Harleys. One was 2006 which ran exclusively in open loop. It was a very smooth bike which I really liked but it was lost in a fire. I replaced it with a 2016 Softail. This bike was horrible at low rpm especially low gears. Much the same as my Guzzi but worse. One of the reasons I got rid of it among others.
I have no intention of dumping my Guzzi, it is the best bike I have ever owned. Even though I can live with the issues but it would be so much better if they didn't exist. I am not willing to spend a bunch of money trying to correct the problem. I spent a bit of money and many hours on my Harley trying to make it what it should have been from the factory. Rather ride than wrench.
kk
roadventure
GT Reference
Check the switch at the clutch lever. I had the same symptoms and discovered the micro-switch on the clutch lever had failed. Replaced the switch and all is good.
My clutch switch is working perfectly. In fact I move the clutch lever slightly to disengage the cruise control so as to disengage it without flashing the brake lights confusing traffic behind me. The cruise control button on my year bike is not the easiest to manipulate. Thanks for your response.
kk
kk
Dennis Avedisian
Just got it firing!
my Idling seems to be all over the place, freeway speed is no problem, but the idling is just too fast or too slow.
Need to know what the fix is. Remap? re-flash? power commander ?
Need to know what the fix is. Remap? re-flash? power commander ?
James Chance
Cruisin' Guzzisti
You've got a sensor issue likely. Idling on mine has been dead on at 1200 since I bought the bike... ;-) [edit} Hmmm, maybe 2014 was a good year after all... ;-)
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Get the bike to a dealer or someone who can diagnose the problem. No flash/PC-V will fix a running issue like you are having.
Dennis Avedisian
Just got it firing!
that's the problem, no Guzzi dealers or mechanics here in Idaho.
roadventure
GT Reference
That's a problem for a lot of us...(no dealers)
Ste
Not firing
Swapping out the Crank Position Sensor - 6389915 might be worth a try. That fixed my warm motor high and rough idle issues. easy job and cheap (35 bucks). good luck.
Hello,
I have noticed this problem for the last few rides. Hanging throttle about 3000rpm when clutch is pressed. I noticed also huge loss of engine braking below this rpm. (I know about this common problem but this time it is much worse).
I read all this trhead and in my case I am sure it is not "clutch sensor" in my case(tempomant working, also starting in gear). I checked also Valve Clearance.
When the engine is cold, this problem does not occur. It occurred only after about 15km of ride. Weather was quite cold (about 13 °C - 55°F).
I noticed this hanging throttle issue started when I did fuel remap, and I also did in Diag "reset Autolearning parameters", and "Handle self-learning". I think reset that parameters could cause that throttle hanging issue. I also made video after ride to simmulate this problem on neutral. (On video you can also notice my hot start issue - struggling with it over year)
I have noticed this problem for the last few rides. Hanging throttle about 3000rpm when clutch is pressed. I noticed also huge loss of engine braking below this rpm. (I know about this common problem but this time it is much worse).
I read all this trhead and in my case I am sure it is not "clutch sensor" in my case(tempomant working, also starting in gear). I checked also Valve Clearance.
When the engine is cold, this problem does not occur. It occurred only after about 15km of ride. Weather was quite cold (about 13 °C - 55°F).
I noticed this hanging throttle issue started when I did fuel remap, and I also did in Diag "reset Autolearning parameters", and "Handle self-learning". I think reset that parameters could cause that throttle hanging issue. I also made video after ride to simmulate this problem on neutral. (On video you can also notice my hot start issue - struggling with it over year)
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There's your problem. I do not allow discussions of Diag or mapping on this site. You have the tools to solve this yourself. Reinstall the stock map and see if you have any ECU errors.
I don't think you needed all the resetting, maybe was throttle learning, can't remember but it happened to me using factory PADS software. The single TB ecu is not like the CARC model ecu.
I thought the same to reset it all but it's not like that.
I would reboot it before starting all over, undo batt cables and such.
If I had one of the Cali14's I would trash the dash & use one like Todd's no TC or cruise needed. All the troubles go away.
I thought the same to reset it all but it's not like that.
I would reboot it before starting all over, undo batt cables and such.
If I had one of the Cali14's I would trash the dash & use one like Todd's no TC or cruise needed. All the troubles go away.
Big thanks to you. Replaced that sensor fixed hanging throttle and also fixed my hot starting issue. I also noticed original sensor was little damaged. I guess it is because the cable was routing just between engine cylinder ribs where is very high temperature. I use aluminium tape and I wrapped new cable to prevent from heat.
Attachments
Ste
Not firing
that's great to hear. stay safe and well over there.
The_Randominator
Just got it firing!
I just now read through this thread, and I know what everyone is going through as I have experienced it on my C14, throttle would hang, sometimes just shoving it to off position would do the trick, found it very unnerving on slow riding in traffic as it would jolt me forward often.
The solution was provided by the tech at the dealers garage, he didn't even flinch, as soon as I explained he knew what I was talking about, he said he will "reset the throttle position sensor", and I guess he did, because after that I have had no issues ever again, even now 10000 miles later, I have never had an onset
The solution was provided by the tech at the dealers garage, he didn't even flinch, as soon as I explained he knew what I was talking about, he said he will "reset the throttle position sensor", and I guess he did, because after that I have had no issues ever again, even now 10000 miles later, I have never had an onset