• NOTICE: Starting March 24th, we've shifted to a mandatory user Account upgrade (donation) to post here. Once you've created an account, see the SITE SUPPORT section at the bottom on how to upgrade. This is to help try and cover site costs, and reduce redundant and argumentative posts. Search and read before staring a new thread, most topics are well covered here. We still require ONE post in the Intro section (bottom of the main Forum section list) to introduce yourself: NO QUESTIONS THERE - THEY WILL BE DELETED. Small $ donations via our link above will not be considered. Also to NOTE, the owner of this website lost his home in the LA Wildfire storm in January; See the USA section for more details. Your consideration and understanding on use of this site is expected. It's NOT a free social media platform - decades of time and personal money are invested. We have a zero tolerance policy on attacks. Do NOT write us direct and ask questions unrelated to the Forum, we do not offer Tech support direct, they will be deleted.

Mindis V7-850 Mods

After 24hrs I checked rear brake bleeding again and couldn't feel any difference compared to where I left it. Looks good in my books, but as I'm in no rush anywhere with it, I'll leave caliper hanging for one more day.
I bet no one is excited as I am looking at my wheel covers, I'm just having a stiffy...😍



To measure for standoffs I put the rim with covers on my highly engineered top notch quality very fancy DIY wheel balancer, and spent countless hours drafting a super high accuracy and overcomplicated standoff drawing:



I did some guessing and turns out I'm not that bad at guessing LOL As I though heavy part of the rim would be where the valve stem is coz I have heavier than OEM 90deg stem and 2in extension to go with it. I've no way of checking cover's balance alone but I guessed that their heavy part would be where the letters are. That's because letters "swim" in a solid blob of resin where the rest of the cover has resin compressed out with vacuum forming. So I temporary balanced the rim, then I could confirm that my guess about covers heavy part was correct.
I'm changing my balancing plan to have less hassle and less work:) Here's my new plan: When I mount the tire I'll see if I can rotate it to find it's heavy part. Road6 doesn't have a mark for heavy part as they are "balanced enough" out of the factory (or so I heard). That is before I get the bead seated. If it won't sit nicely centered than I won't be able to do that. So far according to my rough weight measurements I need to add 10gr to balance it. that's not bad at all. It might be even less with tire on. And then it hit me, that I can make up for that weight by making 2 standoffs beefier and heavier than the rest 4. So... technically, theoretically, based on my guessing, at the very end of all assembled, I will need only a tiny bit of weight to balance the wheel, if any... And to account for that little wee bit I'll have balancing beads inside.
My buddy came by to my shop and said that I'm way overthinking and overcomplicating things, "just slap on that 10gr lead and ya good", but I just can't help myself LOL
 
Mindis said:
I can make up for that weight by making 2 standoffs beefier and heavier than the rest 4
Click to expand...
I actually can't do that... The whole lot would be balanced, but the covers alone would be out of balance. Then they will want to shake out of the rim. I'm pretty confident that retaining ring will hold but I don't want to take that chance, so I'm just gonna balance the wheel traditional way.

Quoting yourself is weird, but as I talk to myself once a while then no big deal. Nevermind, don't mind me...🤪
 
Mindis said:
I actually can't do that... The whole lot would be balanced, but the covers alone would be out of balance. Then they will want to shake out of the rim. I'm pretty confident that retaining ring will hold but I don't want to take that chance, so I'm just gonna balance the wheel traditional way.

Quoting yourself is weird, but as I talk to myself once a while then no big deal. Nevermind, don't mind me...🤪
Click to expand...
Like talking to yourself , but in writing :wasntme:
I have a couple of email accounts I Almost never use but they get junk mails, so I log into them once in a while to keep them alive, and send The other one an email, they have been having conversations for a while now… :blush:
 
Yas might need some popcorn for this episode, I got lots of pics:)

Instead of turning standoffs to fancy shape to lighten them, I made them hollow instead. Less work and no one will see them inside the wheel. 100gr for 6 including M5 stainless steel bolts is what I roughly expected:





Now I can check the whole weight. I was hoping for 350gr, realistically thought it would be around 500gr, and came out at 600gr. Since new tire is 800gr lighter, it's still a win. By win I mean not a loss LOL



I temporary balanced the rim, mounted tire on and found tire's heavy side. I was able to rotate it on the rim before I seated the bead. This way I needed less weight to balance it. I balanced it perfectly, then put balancing beads inside to account for wheel covers imbalance. Mounted wheel covers on and she has both shoes on now! Then I could mount my rear fender and number plate holder.









After that I could mount my axle sliders. Rear and front ones are not as of sliders, but more for lifting a bike on stands that I'll be making eventually:)





Headlight bucket was ready and waiting for its turn. I got the right connector (forgot it's name) that plugs in to OEM headlight and crimped to new headlight wires. I didn't want to splice to original wiring so I added a 2pin connector passed the headlight's connector. That will power my number plate lights when I turn on the lights, I don't need my plates to be lit during daylight.



I routed wires under the tank, through battery compartment, and under the bike to power number plates lights. I added another 2pin connector under the swing arm for the case where I'll have to take out number plate holder.



All is connected, all is working:) Following the advise from people wiser than me, I won't be riding with high beams on all the time, I'll have low beams. I remembered the trips I did last season where I needed high beams, it's not worth being a d1k LOL So my DRLs are connected to low beam output and will be on when the bike starts, and low beams together with number plate lights are connected to high beam output and I can switch them on when needed via high beam switch.



 
Wow! That rear wheel came out 100x nicer than I thought. Just, Wow!

👏👏👏

🥂🍻
 
povuWrpHj
The back end looks so clean 👍 👍👍 Beautiful !
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate the thumbs up🫶 I'm aware that it's not everyone's cup of tea, but it's right up my alley LOL

Let's carry on my madness... Wiring my tail lights unit. I have a flowing turn signals on my mirrors at the front but when wired tail light unit they were just flashing quickly, as if it's rear turn signals are not connected. Rear turn signals were flashing quickly as well, and they suppose to be flowing. Since I dealt with LEDs on old bike's flasher relays, I knew what was happening here. LEDs are very low power and doesn't have enough resistance for flasher relay to see that the light is on. There was 10W 7.5 Ohm resistors supplied with the unit for that case, but for whatever reason that didn't work. On my previous bumstop I had a generic LED strip that works just fine without any resistors so I started testing bunch of standalone 12v LEDs, connecting them parallel to my turn signals as a parasitic resistors. Some 3mm green LEDs worked the charm;)



I soldered extension wires, crimped connector, wrapped and secured to my rear fender. Taillight connector will live in battery compartment because I don't like cluster wires under the seat:



And now I have taillights:) I'll put kickstand back on and she's ready for a ride, minus half a foot of snow in my town...

 
Thanks guys, I appreciate the thumbs up🫶 I'm aware that it's not everyone's cup of tea, but it's right up my alley LOL
Click to expand...

It’s you. Besides, your insanity is what makes you, well, you! 😆

Ok,

What is “ Ze Maza Faka”? 🧐🥸🤓

Must be Lithuanian for “Your Mom is Hot” or “Great Tits” or something similar. 😆

Or on the other hand, you’re secretly from Madagascar, you speak Malagasy, and you really do believe “It’s a good thing to be.” 👌👍😄


IMG_3981.png
 
Last edited:
No, HONESTLY, it’s actually Malagasy and it really does mean “It’s a good thing to be.”

I don’t think that is by accident?
 
Why should you believe anything I say? Nobody else around this damn place does...

I end up talking to nobody or some newbie asshat with wax in their ears...

It really is true. Unless you make people PAY FOR INFORMATION, they don't believe you and want to argue with you. Frankly, I'm really over the whole damn thing.... (Not you guys here!)
 
Only our very own favorite “Mad Lithuanian” would use Malagasy, a language spoken only on Madagascar and the three Comoros islands right next door, to communicate his thoughts.

I think it is the very definition of an inside joke! 😆
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top