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Mindis V7-850 Mods
- Thread starterMindis
- Start date
Aw...
Group hug? Anyone? LOLI'm not a 100% sure what ya mean here... Ya thinking of 3rd point mounting at that axle nut? If so, how? Maybe make a washer with high sides that axle nut will hold? I haven't though of that, it just literarily hit me LOL I haven't started carbon/resin marathon, there's time to change if there's a better idea
I was brainstorming axle mount but couldn't find any easy solutions. If axle would be hollow then it'd be easy peasy but it's not. I could take out the axle, drop it in my lathe and drill/tap for M5 screws. I think 20mm'ish deep thread would not weaken the axle. I'm still gonna make some axle sliders later so I was looking for hollow front and rear axles but couldn't find a replacement based on size. Part number gives only OEM axles and I'm trying to avoid taking out axles for "not as important" reasons.
Damn, I get it now... jeez, my head is all over the place sometimes... I could play "English is not my first language" card but that won't fly anymore LOL But hey, it used to work 20 years ago when us Eastern Europeans flooded your country for that slice of your Celtic Tiger cake
I absolutely agree that front mount at the axle nut would be better, I just couldn't figure it out how to do it the easy way. K, change of plans- I have 4mm thread left after axle nut, so I'll weld a cup like washer that axle nut will hold, and weld bottom rod to that cup. Bottom rod will have to be moved down coz it's right at axle's center atm
Well, my new pitched plan for number plate holder didn't work... Rear axle nut is 26mm size and the socket just just fits in the hole of a swingarm. I have zero space to make anything to tie to axle nut coz I wouldn't be able to tighten it. So I'm back to my previous idea of a loop around the swing arm.
And while I'm working on one thing, I'm prepping other things before that coz it takes 48hrs for resin to fully cure. So I'm at my belly pan again... Following my builds (I guess) is like watching a time travel movie with a really screwed up timeline that's hard to follow. But bare with me, it'll all make sense eventually LOL
I sanded my fiberglass piece quite thin, there's only one layer of fiberglass anyway. The reason for that is that not forming in vacuum adds weight. Some holes opened up but that's OK, 2 layers of carbon fiber chop strands will cover them well and be strong enough. Fiberglass shell is just to hold carbon fiber. Since I'm not using high temp resin, I left enough gap between belly pan and exhaust. That's why I needed to finish my exhaust and mounted it permanently first.
I have a plan for mounting top part that'll be done later, and for the bottom mount I utilized 2 threaded holes at the bottom of the oil pan:
When I was happy with how it sits, gaps, etc, I put it back in foam mold and started forged carbon fiber skinning:
Unlike other pieces I'll try to do this one a bit differently. When skinning in forged carbon fiber I usually do 2 layers in one go. It gives enough meat to cover everything and for sanding, but sometimes it get thin in some areas and I'll have to do another pass. Also chop strands gets a bit lumpy in some spots what makes extra work for sanding to make an area nice in a smooth plane. So I'll try to do one layer, let it cure, give it a rough sanding and then do a second layer that I hope will be the final one. I think this way I'll use less material what will make my piece lighter and more consistent thickness. It'll take more time due to curing times but should be roughly same amount of work for a finished thingy
And while I'm working on one thing, I'm prepping other things before that coz it takes 48hrs for resin to fully cure. So I'm at my belly pan again... Following my builds (I guess) is like watching a time travel movie with a really screwed up timeline that's hard to follow. But bare with me, it'll all make sense eventually LOL
I sanded my fiberglass piece quite thin, there's only one layer of fiberglass anyway. The reason for that is that not forming in vacuum adds weight. Some holes opened up but that's OK, 2 layers of carbon fiber chop strands will cover them well and be strong enough. Fiberglass shell is just to hold carbon fiber. Since I'm not using high temp resin, I left enough gap between belly pan and exhaust. That's why I needed to finish my exhaust and mounted it permanently first.
I have a plan for mounting top part that'll be done later, and for the bottom mount I utilized 2 threaded holes at the bottom of the oil pan:
When I was happy with how it sits, gaps, etc, I put it back in foam mold and started forged carbon fiber skinning:
Unlike other pieces I'll try to do this one a bit differently. When skinning in forged carbon fiber I usually do 2 layers in one go. It gives enough meat to cover everything and for sanding, but sometimes it get thin in some areas and I'll have to do another pass. Also chop strands gets a bit lumpy in some spots what makes extra work for sanding to make an area nice in a smooth plane. So I'll try to do one layer, let it cure, give it a rough sanding and then do a second layer that I hope will be the final one. I think this way I'll use less material what will make my piece lighter and more consistent thickness. It'll take more time due to curing times but should be roughly same amount of work for a finished thingy
Very interesting watching you work, especially with composite materials. They are having no chance against you as you mold and shape them. By the way @Mindis, I have some questions for you regarding your exhaust:
1. how did you sorted out the fueling. A custom map was made on a dyno?
2. What ID/OD steel pipe did you used? The same diameter as the standard headers?
Cheers, buddy!
1. how did you sorted out the fueling. A custom map was made on a dyno?
2. What ID/OD steel pipe did you used? The same diameter as the standard headers?
Cheers, buddy!
I got UpMap T800 from site's store. Da boss doesn't have any custom dyno-proved maps yet so I uploaded one from UpMap store, one with "aftermarket exhaust with DB killers". I started it today with new exhaust, let me say she louder then my Irish drunk ex-wife
I don't remember exact diameter, scroll up from the start, maybe I mentioned somewhere. I know for sure that pipe's ID at the headers is exact ID of exit from cylinders. After the bend it thickens by 1/8th of an inch before H cross member, and just before mufflers it thickens again by 1/8th to accommodate muffler's diameter. I prefer to work in more simple and precise metric but in Canada most of the stuff is imperial...
I've nearly spat out my coffeeI started it today with new exhaust, let me say she louder then my Irish drunk ex-wife
Thanks, Mindis! Soon I'll update my topic also...not much but it's honest work
.Cheers!
Bumstop part of my seat is done. If I was after glossy mirror finish it'd be quick and painless but damn, that satin finish looks of forged carbon fiber takes forever...
I went for a rip on my bike and had an embarrassing moment... I was struggling to lift it on my center stand I didn't want a big spike sticking out upwards for leverage and paid the price. When it was fine'ish lifting with my shoes in the tent, it wasn't that fine trying to do so with my riding shoes on LOL And after half a day of zippin' around town with lots of pitstops I decided that I don't like center stand I won't be fixing it.
So I went back to kickstand. Since I had extra crossmember tube already, it was easy to move it forward for it not to interfere with my new exhaust. I lowered it's mounting point, added extra triangle brace and extra pad at the bottom in a shape of a wrench
I went for a rip on my bike and had an embarrassing moment... I was struggling to lift it on my center stand
I didn't want a big spike sticking out upwards for leverage and paid the price. When it was fine'ish lifting with my shoes in the tent, it wasn't that fine trying to do so with my riding shoes on LOL And after half a day of zippin' around town with lots of pitstops I decided that I don't like center stand I won't be fixing it.So I went back to kickstand. Since I had extra crossmember tube already, it was easy to move it forward for it not to interfere with my new exhaust. I lowered it's mounting point, added extra triangle brace and extra pad at the bottom in a shape of a wrench
I hear ya, it's just it didn't cut it for me... After half a day of frequent stops I started hating it LOL It sure is a bit inconvenient not having a center stand for maintenance etc but for that I've welded a rear wheel stand that I screw to my floor. It does the job
I'll make a video over weekend
Was thinking to do the same...but...I might be lazy to unbolt it every time I want to do the oil change or a flat tire. Those V85TT covers are so sexy on the V7...show us some more pictures!
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Cycle porn
Lots of pics at
www.guzzitech.com
2022 V7 LeMans 850i - building it -
I’m going to post pics here how my bike is evolving... As this project is already for quite a few weeks at Todd’s shop for his R&D I want to thank him and his team for their graciousness and professionalism ! The best place to bring your bike to!!!!
www.guzzitech.com
My comrade guzzisti's LeMans build makes me look like slacker so I better step up a notch LOL Hey, I've been busy teaching one of my critters some valuable life lessons of lost 10mm sockets and skinned knuckles...
When my workshop was clear I sanded first layer of my belly pan and checked again for fit and to see what it's gonna look like in black:
And second layer of carbon fiber chops. Jeez, there's a lot of hours of sanding fun is waiting for me.... LOL
When my workshop was clear I sanded first layer of my belly pan and checked again for fit and to see what it's gonna look like in black:
And second layer of carbon fiber chops. Jeez, there's a lot of hours of sanding fun is waiting for me.... LOL
Cruise control
I'm not very keen on cruise control thingies for now... I haven't used them before but I think they'll be handy on longer trips down the highway. My worries about them is that they all are based on throttle grip clamping on bikes that are not ride-by-wire. The reason I made one is so I can shake my tingling fingers off without loosing speed.
So this one is based on throttle grip clamping as well but I had to make it tight to handlebar switch assembly so it won't interfere with my brake lever that I prefer to have it for 2-finger braking. I wanted it to be as low profile as possible as well.
To get tight to switch assembly I made few layers of woven carbon fiber:
Once I had my shape I could make some molds and fill them with carbon fiber chops:
Rough parts out and roughly finished:
Epoxied M5 bolt, final shape and finish:
And it's mounted, visually non invasive and sleek
Next pic shows how I went for grooved clamping part that hugs grip's lip. It's because the larger grip surface means less tightening on the nut and less leverage:
My idea was that I can just touch with my thumbs knuckle when rolling out the throttle and it will loosen up the clap upwards but it turns out that it works even better than I thought! When it's clamped at open throttle I don't even have to touch it, just roll the throttle out and it lifts itself just enough for throttle not to stick anymore. I haven't tested on a ride yet, it might get loose due vibration and I'll have to tighten the nut a wee touch but I'll definitely take this one as win
I'm not very keen on cruise control thingies for now... I haven't used them before but I think they'll be handy on longer trips down the highway. My worries about them is that they all are based on throttle grip clamping on bikes that are not ride-by-wire. The reason I made one is so I can shake my tingling fingers off without loosing speed.
So this one is based on throttle grip clamping as well but I had to make it tight to handlebar switch assembly so it won't interfere with my brake lever that I prefer to have it for 2-finger braking. I wanted it to be as low profile as possible as well.
To get tight to switch assembly I made few layers of woven carbon fiber:
Once I had my shape I could make some molds and fill them with carbon fiber chops:
Rough parts out and roughly finished:
Epoxied M5 bolt, final shape and finish:
And it's mounted, visually non invasive and sleek
Next pic shows how I went for grooved clamping part that hugs grip's lip. It's because the larger grip surface means less tightening on the nut and less leverage:
My idea was that I can just touch with my thumbs knuckle when rolling out the throttle and it will loosen up the clap upwards but it turns out that it works even better than I thought! When it's clamped at open throttle I don't even have to touch it, just roll the throttle out and it lifts itself just enough for throttle not to stick anymore. I haven't tested on a ride yet, it might get loose due vibration and I'll have to tighten the nut a wee touch but I'll definitely take this one as win
Now that I'm looking at close up pics I see that could've had a better finish on them... LOL
Hey comrade....
Far cry from the truth.....
You are coming a long way on your bike.... I’m still playing catch-up with you !!!
🏍
Far cry from the truth.....
You are coming a long way on your bike.... I’m still playing catch-up with you !!!
🏍