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New 2022 V7 850 - How much vibration is too much vibration?

neetones

Just got it firing!
Joined
Apr 11, 2023
Messages
16
Location
DC
Hello. I trailered my new '22 V7 850 Centenario home a few nights ago. Just went for my first ~160 mile ride today.

I've owned more than a dozen bikes including a Husky 610, an 1150RT, a Superduke 1290R, and an R65. I've never experienced vibration like this.

My hands and arms were numb after a few dozen miles. Hours later, they're still tingling. I know that I can expect things to smooth out a bit as the bike runs in but how do I know if I have a problem?

Here's a video of the bike idling.

Thanks for your input.

Nitin
 
Yeah it was above 3500 most of the time. Smooths out a bit at higher RPM but not much.

Any idea what the torque specs are?
 
Welcome to the modern world of air cooled lean (E5) emissions. Your motor mounts are fine.
Search and read a little on engine vibration in this section.
Your bike has not only one proverbial bananas in the tail pipe, but two per side. One in the header, and one in the muffler. How it runs at all, is astonishing based on flow and fuel delivery. This is the bulk of the problem.
Uncork it and feed it some fuel, and they smooth right out.
See the fueling thread.
 
I don’t know about the V7 850, but my experience with the V85TT (fully stock) is that the mirrors are useable at all engine speeds. There is more vibration than my R1150 RS because it is a V-twin so the power pulses are not evenly distributed and it is not mechanically balanced like an opposed twin. It is definitely smoother than the Harley I rented many years ago or the BMW F650 single I had for adventure riding before buying the V85.

I have no doubt that exhaust and fueling upgrades from GTM would help, assuming nothing else is wrong. I would probably compare cylinder head and exhaust head pipe temperatures with an infrared thermometer after riding. Significant differences between the two cylinders might indicate they are not sharing the load equally. I would also check valve clearances to make sure they are correct (in case the pre-delivery inspection/adjustment was not thorough).
 
I have no doubt that exhaust and fueling upgrades from GTM would help, assuming nothing else is wrong. I would probably compare cylinder head and exhaust head pipe temperatures with an infrared thermometer after riding. Significant differences between the two cylinders might indicate they are not sharing the load equally. I would also check valve clearances to make sure they are correct (in case the pre-delivery inspection/adjustment was not thorough).
Thanks Gerry. All correct as well. Most dealer PDI's I've checked on after delivered are a joke.
 
I don’t know about the V7 850, but my experience with the V85TT (fully stock) is that the mirrors are useable at all engine speeds. There is more vibration than my R1150 RS because it is a V-twin so the power pulses are not evenly distributed and it is not mechanically balanced like an opposed twin. It is definitely smoother than the Harley I rented many years ago or the BMW F650 single I had for adventure riding before buying the V85.

I have no doubt that exhaust and fueling upgrades from GTM would help, assuming nothing else is wrong. I would probably compare cylinder head and exhaust head pipe temperatures with an infrared thermometer after riding. Significant differences between the two cylinders might indicate they are not sharing the load equally. I would also check valve clearances to make sure they are correct (in case the pre-delivery inspection/adjustment was not thorough).
Thank you for this. If the cylinder temps are quite different, what's the fix there?
The vibrations definitely feel like something's wrong. My single-cylinder large displacement Huskies never caused numbness like this.
 
Same issue with my V85. Coming from four cylinder Honda’s I was considering selling the bike but it has since grown on me. Give it time.
 
Thank you for this. If the cylinder temps are quite different, what's the fix there?
The vibrations definitely feel like something's wrong. My single-cylinder large displacement Huskies never caused numbness like this.
Since the V7 850 is like the V85TT and has a single throttle body feeding both cylinders, there is no throttle body synch needed so things to check would be valve clearance (most likely), compression, fuel injectors, oxygen (Lambda) sensors, spark plugs, ignition coils, wiring, and difference in exhaust restrictions.

Check the valve clearances if you are one to do your own servicing. The service manual is available under "downloads" if you donate to the site. If valve clearances are all correct, then talk to your dealer since it is under warranty.
 
Since the V7 850 is like the V85TT and has a single throttle body feeding both cylinders, there is no throttle body synch needed so things to check would be valve clearance (most likely), compression, fuel injectors, oxygen (Lambda) sensors, spark plugs, ignition coils, wiring, and difference in exhaust restrictions.

Check the valve clearances if you are one to do your own servicing. The service manual is available under "downloads" if you donate to the site. If valve clearances are all correct, then talk to your dealer since it is under warranty.
Thanks, Gerry.
I'll do just that. I appreciate the advice.
 
Nitin,

Attempt to find another late model V7or V85 nearby and compare the vibration side by side at idle. I can prob find some Virginia MG Club owners from NOVA who could help you out. I am in Richmond and could meet you halfway one weekend and we could swap bikes for comparison. My V85 is a 2020 model.

Mike
 
On the exhaust, I would go with a full exhaust from Todd… As we know now the OEM header pipes have catalytic converter‘s in it too...
 
I have an appointment with the dealer to see what's going on. I'll update the thread once I learn more. Frustratingly, I'm also dealing with the engine just cutting out upon decel when the engine isn't fully warmed up.

Also, am I crazy, or should there be a nut here holding the frame together on the left side? Is the boss in the frame threaded?

PXL 20230420 234610020
 
As a 90 degree v-twin the engine has perfect primary balance. Although there is some secondary imbalance the engine should be smooth, at least from 3,500rpm. Mine is in fact smooth lower down the rev range because I remapped it using UpMap. Mirrors are clear at all revs except ticker. Mine was not particularly smooth from new but got better every ride. It shouldn't need grip puppies or heavier bar- end weights IMHO - that's addressing the symptoms not the cause. You might like to try running with the traction control turned off. I know of more than one owner here in the UK who has had trouble with it set to level 2, causing stalling, lumpy running and vibration (my brother with his Roamer for one). In fact the other day I must have accidentally pressed the starter button instead of mode button, because I noticed an increase in vibration and generally crappy running. Sure enough, when I got home I noticed the TC was set to 2. Turning it off the next day restored normal running. Mine never got past the original OEM map before I remapped it myself; it may be that later models have a map that sorted this issue; I don't know, but I do think you should try running with it off, or at east in level 1, my usual default as it saves having to reset it each ride. Just a thought.
 
As a 90 degree v-twin the engine has perfect primary balance. Although there is some secondary imbalance the engine should be smooth, at least from 3,500rpm. Mine is in fact smooth lower down the rev range because I remapped it using UpMap. Mirrors are clear at all revs except ticker. Mine was not particularly smooth from new but got better every ride. It shouldn't need grip puppies or heavier bar- end weights IMHO - that's addressing the symptoms not the cause. You might like to try running with the traction control turned off. I know of more than one owner here in the UK who has had trouble with it set to level 2, causing stalling, lumpy running and vibration (my brother with his Roamer for one). In fact the other day I must have accidentally pressed the starter button instead of mode button, because I noticed an increase in vibration and generally crappy running. Sure enough, when I got home I noticed the TC was set to 2. Turning it off the next day restored normal running. Mine never got past the original OEM map before I remapped it myself; it may be that later models have a map that sorted this issue; I don't know, but I do think you should try running with it off, or at east in level 1, my usual default as it saves having to reset it each ride. Just a thought.
Thank you. I've been running in TC level 1 the whole time. Going to install my center stand and check valve clearances this weekend if I find the time.
 
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