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Refurbishing my 2007 Norge

A good and capable friend came over today & together we have spent today working on the Norge. Most of the work was on the wiring for the horns and adding an extra 40A fused feed from the alternator to the battery. We have also looked at some other bits and pieces of the loom and made some repairs.

We found a mysterious bridged connection up by the relays etc. by the battery compartment - we couldn't decide what it was for so just put it back into place:
ruulfv0.jpg


We also found a relay with a damaged wire and a supply from the battery that had dropped off its connection & needed repairs. There's a yellow that was cut rather short and had detached itself from the bullet connector used to join to an in-line fuse & thence to the battery. On the other side of this connector is a relay. No idea what for.

Damage visible & yellow wire temporarily removed for repair:
EpSi5CT.jpg


Repaired & relay reinserted. I wonder what it's for:
dlB7NnJ.jpg


Up at the pointy end I remounted the twin horns and reconnected them. Only one relay this time so only one supply cable, forked to both horns. We fitted the connection to the loom and the various power connections through a 10A fuse (there was an inline one but I don't like them so I've invested in a relay block with a fuse holder in it from VWP.) It took some messing about but now there's the original loom reaching back along the side of the air box and connecting to a twin cable to the relay and another cable running on the other side of the air box (heat shielded) and down the front of the engine to the horns as shown below:
n18CbGt.jpg


There is a bit of a nest of wires in the battery compartment but actually there's less than there was. I now know what all the cables I have worked on do (I think) and after reattaching the battery the horns have been tested. They do the do nicely:
NQFAP5B.jpg


After that it seemed sensible to replace the air box and get that all sorted out. On went the air box and the daft little box on the front of the air box and after much wriggling and willing it all went into place and the connections onto the hoses were all reattached:
YeGgcCB.jpg


Then on went the hoses to the blow back box at the front:
VTdqhTV.jpg


I cleaned out the switch gear on both sides to try and get everything working better. The actions seem smoother so I hope all is good now. Then on went the front mudguard and the tank:
BmjwJOq.jpg


It is starting to look a little more like a motorcycle and less like a random collection of bits.
mR5xEkV.jpg


There wasn't anywhere near enough time to get the exhausts back on the bike. I am out all day tomorrow and so won't be working on it then. Sunday I may have a little headache and possibly a lie in. I still have leave to use and so I will be booking a week off late Nov and getting it all back together (I hope) then.

Irritatingly, I have realised as I write this up that the tank has to come back off as I put all the hoses for the little blow back box in place but didn't remember to tighten up the various fittings that hold the hoses on. Insert rude words here.

Nevertheless, all in all a good day's work.
 
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Yellow wire is a color that goes to the starter relay. May have been attempting the standard modification. If bike started before you found this then it wasn't for the starter relay. https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/modern-no-start-issue-solution.4908/

Bike started just fine before I had all this apart. That connection might have been just holding on as I moved things around for access and that’s when I noticed it had parted.

Hopefully after fixing it the bike will start properly again after it goes back together!
 
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Yea my Breva has that mysterious bridged connector. The small breather pipe from the front box, instead of connecting it to the airbox I routed it to a separate bottle as I found it made the airbox wet with oil mist and it made the air intakes gummy, there was a service bulletin on how to clean them as it caused stalling when winding the throttle off.
 
You don't have to guess what the relays are or any other wire for that matter. I'm pretty sure the wiring diagrams are posted here on the site under DOWNLOADS. Let me check. Yep...

Carl Allisons Wiring Diagrams

The relays are 2, 3 and 4.

Most everybody's relays have been moved around one way or another by this time so position means nothing. However, you can tell which relay is which by the color and number of the wires going into the connector. Good stuff.


IMG-0032.gif
 
Yea my Breva has that mysterious bridged connector.
Ah right, that’s rather comforting :)

The small breather pipe from the front box, instead of connecting it to the airbox I routed it to a separate bottle as I found it made the airbox wet with oil mist and it made the air intakes gummy, there was a service bulletin on how to clean them as it caused stalling when winding the throttle off.
That’s a thought for next time I have the tank off. About 4K miles I hope!
 
You don't have to guess what the relays are or any other wire for that matter. I'm pretty sure the wiring diagrams are posted here on the site under DOWNLOADS.
Magnificent - thank you very much. I was not aware of that resource. I’m going to get that properly printed & laminated and put it on my garage wall :)

Most everybody's relays have been moved around one way or another by this time so position means nothing. However, you can tell which relay is which by the color and number of the wires going into the connector.
Indeed yes. I have a very poorly printed wiring diagram in the back of a manual on A4 and it’s just about unreadable. So I didn’t bother trying to read it...

Good stuff.
Very good stuff.
 
1,212 curses.

Friday's work included putting the tank back on and now I've realised that I may have left one bolt out of the fuel pump plate and also have left off the two hose retainer clips that fit on there:
YMZyLZr.jpg


I mean, it won't kill me but it's awkward and would be better done with one person to hold the tank while the other does the work - that way I don't have to undo the fuel connector again. I really don't want to do that more times than I have to.

Still, I've tidied up the electrics and refitted the battery - although the -ve connection isn't done up, of course.
OjzCLJp.jpg
 
The fuel gauge on my Norge tells pork pies about how much fuel is left. It coughs and splutters at 160-170 miles, sometimes less.

Tomorrow evening when I lift the tank to replace the bolt mentioned above, I have the opportunity to take the plate off and the pump / gauge assembly out for inspection and potential fixing. Is there anything to look out for that I can do to improve the reliability and range of the fuel gauge or do I live with it as it is?
 
The fuel gauge on my Norge tells pork pies about how much fuel is left. It coughs and splutters at 160-170 miles, sometimes less.

Tomorrow evening when I lift the tank to replace the bolt mentioned above, I have the opportunity to take the plate off and the pump / gauge assembly out for inspection and potential fixing. Is there anything to look out for that I can do to improve the reliability and range of the fuel gauge or do I live with it as it is?

Another resource for you...

I think what you are looking for is discussed on the site. I found some interesting ones that you can see when you do a SEARCH (above right at top of top screen) for " Norge Fuel Gauge Issue " and you can see the responses. Happy hunting.
 
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The fuel gauge on my Norge tells pork pies about how much fuel is left. It coughs and splutters at 160-170 miles, sometimes less.

Tomorrow evening when I lift the tank to replace the bolt mentioned above, I have the opportunity to take the plate off and the pump / gauge assembly out for inspection and potential fixing. Is there anything to look out for that I can do to improve the reliability and range of the fuel gauge or do I live with it as it is?

My memory isn't what it used to be -- and probably never was! :giggle: -- but I would swear under oath (with only mild worries about perjury ;)), that I routinely get 200+ miles on a tank.

Bill
 
I seem to recall that the sending unit for the fuel level can be replaced. I don't see it on the 2007 Norge parts break out but check with a local dealer. BTW, my 2006 1100 Breva (about the same setup) delivers well over 200 miles before the low fuel countdown begins.
 
I had to replace the sender unit for my Breva 1100 a few years ago, I got it from this site. Mine wouldn't show "full". its an easy job, replace the filter while your at it and use the proper clips. As John says you easy get over 200Kms. The sender does come apart and you may find it is sticking but for the trouble its a cheap fix to replace it.
 
So I have taken the pump assembly out and poured the remaining litre or three of fuel in the tank into my jerry can. There's muck in the bottom of the tank - not an awful lot but enough suspended in the fuel to be sure I want to wipe out the tank interior.

The fuel pump assembly is rather corroded, plus frankly I don't think the fuel gauge slider was moving at all. I had to give it a good shake to get it to move. I've taken it apart, will give the parts a good clean and reassemble. I think most of it is too delicate for my parts washer - although it is designed to be submerged in petrol so I dunno. What say the panel?
 
I think what you are looking for is discussed on the site. I found some interesting ones that you can see when you do a SEARCH (above right at top of top screen) for " Norge Fuel Gauge Issue " and you can see the responses. Happy hunting.

Yeah - that search got me 5 threads, 3 of which were started by me (includes this one) and 2 of which turned out not to be relevant :(

Still, a good reminder that I should search before asking questions, thanks.
 
I had to replace the sender unit for my Breva 1100 a few years ago, I got it from this site. Mine wouldn't show "full". its an easy job, replace the filter while your at it and use the proper clips. As John says you easy get over 200Kms. The sender does come apart and you may find it is sticking but for the trouble its a cheap fix to replace it.
I hope this is the case - mine was certainly sticking when I took the pump assembly out. I have it apart but haven't tried to clean / reassemble yet. Waiting for the fuel smell to disperse in the garage first!
 
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Fuel pump assembly out:
UMWu1hC.jpg


There's an awful lot of corrosion on the base plate:
VQf83V8.jpg


Other side:
X2ckT8t.jpg


Sticking gauge assembly out:
GOvc3D0.jpg


And apart:
Ft5nnH5.jpg


There's light scoring on the inside of the contact plates - this is the plastic side:
8Q1CKtn.jpg


and this the metal side:
sxv11Bd.jpg


There's a tiny (but maybe crucial - who knows) but if crud in the bottom of the gauge mechanism. This will be cleaned out like all the other parts. I still can't decide whether 20 mins in 30oC solution in the parts cleaner will hurt it or not.

T45ih9n.jpg


The tank opening looks like a basking shark ;)

dESKLKT.jpg


It's all sealed up now and the pump & gauge parts bagged. I will give it a day or so for the fumes in the garage to subside and then I'll decide whether or not I parts washer the gauge. As for the rest, I'll have a poke around and see if anything looks, well, wrong. Or dirty. Or both.
 
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