Refurbishing my 2007 Norge

[mylovelyhorse]

I don’t know what you mean by junction box.

It is the bendy bit that joins the two header pipes to the exhaust can. It forms a junction between the exhaust can and the two headers, hence my calling it the junction box. Officially it is named as the “Central exhaust pipe part number 977664” on the Fowler’s parts website.

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/977664

 

[mylovelyhorse]

If you can clarify what you’re trying to do that isn’t working, I may be able to help better.

With the headers fully inserted into the cylinder heads, the central exhaust pipe (aka junction piece) does not fit fully over the narrowed end parts of the exhaust headers AND also fit onto the left and right mountings for the aforementioned central exhaust pipe.

 

[mylovelyhorse]

I’ve been thinking about this and I reckon that the mounting rubbers are on wrong, so the centre exhaust piece is being held in the wrong position.

 

[Bill Hagan]

Cannot find the popcorn-munching emoticon.

Reconnecting exhaust systems is one of those extraordinarily simple tasks. In theory.

The reality is that I always find some challenge worthy of curses and blood.

I haven't reread all of the above, thus you may have addressed this. Moreover, while it does not, I think, implicate in any way your present problem, there is/are, FWIW, gasket(s) where main can connects to crossover.

Going down in a bit to look under mine. At least it's on the lift so I won't have to call Kathi to help me get back up.

Bill

 

[scott_m]

I’ve been thinking about this and I reckon that the mounting rubbers are on wrong, so the centre exhaust piece is being held in the wrong position.

If the picture you posted earlier is correct, then I cannot understand how you could possibly get it in incorrect. The central pipe is shaped such that it only goes in one way. Correct? If you cannot fully slide 13 onto 18 and then 20, and conversely, 2 onto 10 onto 13 and also 1 onto 10 onto 13, then you are not fully seating 10 and 18 and a soft rubber mallet is your friend, along with saliva as temporary lubricant previously described.

 

[mylovelyhorse]

If the picture you posted earlier is correct, then I cannot understand how you could possibly get it in incorrect.

Can’t you? Goodness. Well I’ve had a look at it and I think the problem is that the rubbers are on the wrong way, thus moving the whole centre exhaust piece back from the right place to mate up to the down pipes. When I get time (Weds) I will take the centre exhaust piece off, put the rubbers back on properly and put it all back together properly.

 

[mylovelyhorse]

The Norge is now wearing its exhaust pipes. In the last instalment you may recall that I couldn’t get the central exhaust piece properly mounted on the down pipes. There are a pair of triangular rubbers that hold the centre exhaust piece in place and I had put them on wrong. You can see one of them top & centre in this picture.

Changing them to the right alignment allowed me to get the headers properly inserted into the centre exhaust piece and the centre piece mounted properly on the bolts that go from frame into rubber mountings. That let me get the various clamps on and tightened up.

The header studs have a washer, another special washer (slightly dished and oddly milled) and then the locking nut. 25Nm later and the header pipes were done too.

Next, on went the silencer (which includes the CAT), the clamp and the annoying spring that goes from can to centre exhaust piece. Surprisingly easy to fit, which was a pleasant surprise.

I am slightly concerned that I don’t know how tight the clamps on the exhaust should be - so I just did them fairly tight. I’m sure it’ll do. Or the exhaust will fall off. One or the other

Next I got the ratchet strap out and refitted the tank. The ethanol in modern fuel has made it swell - not uncommon, I’m told. This means it’s necessary to use a ratchet strap round the tank & the forks to get the tank compressed up enough to get the retaining bolt in. With the exhausts on and the tank in place, it’s looking a bit more like a motorcycle:

Tomorrow morning I have something on so it’ll have to wait until the PM before I get back to it. I’m off using annual leave up over the next few days - back at work on Weds next week. I’m going to use this time to get the Norge done, if at all possible. A mate has kindly offered to come down on Saturday to help finish it off. I’m hoping that we can use that time to get it serviced properly, valves done and the oil changed. Even better I just might be able to ask him to stay at home and I’ll ride over to see him

And after that? My MZed needs it’s fork springs changed, new fork oil, electrics sorted and the barn door fairing fitted. No pressure though, that’s not much work really and I don’t need it done before the Dragon (February).

 

[mylovelyhorse]

On a pleasing note yesterday after putting the Norge’s tank back on, I put 10 litres of fresh unleaded in it, just to test the seal on the pump. I am happy to report that it is all still in there

On a more irritating note, the drain from the fuel filler may be blocked.

 

[scott_m]

On a pleasing note yesterday after putting the Norge’s tank back on, I put 10 litres of fresh unleaded in it, just to test the seal on the pump. I am happy to report that it is all still in there

On a more irritating note, the drain from the fuel filler may be blocked.

Up from the ashes of disaster, grow the roses of success!

 

[mylovelyhorse]

It lives! It lives! Mwahahahahahahahaha!

 

[mylovelyhorse]

So the news is good but not perfect. I have got the clocks back on, the electrics and everything all connected up.

The battery is fully attached and now on trickle charge. The start up was simply to see if it'd turn over at all and it did so very willingly. Only problem was the starter button sticking on - an MOT fail, I'd assume, as well as not being entirely safe. I could manually pull it back into place but something's clearly stopping it from moving of its own accord as it should. I shall have to look into that (later).

I cleaned up the petrol cap, which was really rather cruddy - as was the area underneath it. Not any more though. It took but a moment to get that cleaned up. Where does all this muck come from?!

The cap itself went in the parts washer for 15 mins and was much nicer afterwards. I bathed it in silicon PTFE spray stuff afterwards then dried and refitted it. It opens and locks again much smoother now than it did before.

The drain looked blocked so I ran a bit of wire down the drain hole as far as it would go. I'm not sure it cleared it all through - but then I'm not sure where it comes out of the tank

Tomorrow I must reattach all the tupperware, look at the starter switch and - if nothing else comes up - get it booked in for an MOT. Crikey that's been a long time coming.

 

[Raven]

The light at the end of the tunnel grows brighter.

 

[Roblatt]

I've had your issue with the overflow pipe too. Breva 1100, so pretty much the same bike. You need to remove the tank or lift it high enough to work under it. You will see where the over flow pipe exists there's 2 pipes., remove the clamp and clean the connector, then use a wire insert from the underside of the tank. The elbow on the connector is why you can't do it from the top.

cheers

Robert

 

[mylovelyhorse]

I've had your issue with the overflow pipe too. Breva 1100, so pretty much the same bike. You need to remove the tank or lift it high enough to work under it. You will see where the over flow pipe exists there's 2 pipes., remove the clamp and clean the connector, then use a wire insert from the underside of the tank. The elbow on the connector is why you can't do it from the top.

Ah yes, I have that very connector in mind. I have not cleaned it out (it’s been in a plastic bag for some time) or the hoses to it from the tank - while it was off it didn’t occur to me. So, I’ll have the tank up in the air (but I’m not taking that bloody fuel connector off again) and I’ll follow your advice. Thanks

 

[mylovelyhorse]

OK so tomorrow I have a set of jobs to do on the Norge. The first is to undo the tank retainer bolt, lift the tank up & follow the advice given above to clean out the blocked drain. I shall be doing that “upside down” ‘cos there is absolutely no way I am going to be undoing that fuel injection connector again - it’s a weak point and I am not happy it would take well to repeated connection and disconnection.

Next job: I want the bodywork back on. The belly pan is on already, did that today. Do the side panels go on before the nose cone? I wish I could remember...

Third job, if I get time, is to try and sort out the sticking starter button. That one worries me as the right hand switch cluster is a bit fiddly

I want to ride the bike without it’s side panels on, as it happens, because I want to warm the engine up, spray it with gunk and then rinse all the remaining crud off it. It might make it lighter and will certainly make things easier to spot should it leak again...

After that, I think all that’ll be left to do is to pump up the tyres and, er, give it a check over before taking it for an MOT.

 

[Bill Hagan]

When this ordeal is over, and that appears to be soon, perhaps you might share the name of the OP so we can all make his life miserable in all sorts of imaginative ways.

Seriously, you have the patience of Job in dealing with your many moto-carbuncles!

Congrats on seeing the end in sight.

Bill

 

[scott_m]

Spray Electrical Contact Cleaner will more than likely fix your switch problems.

 

[mylovelyhorse]

When this ordeal is over, and that appears to be soon, perhaps you might share the name of the OP so we can all make his life miserable in all sorts of imaginative ways.

I don't know who the DPO was

 

[mylovelyhorse]

As mentioned, the drain from the fuel cap down to under the bike is/was blocked and I spent some 4 hours sodding around trying to clear it today. I cleaned out the little metal spigot that the in-tank hose connects to, allowing free flow of fluid down to the floor - but the fluid still wouldn't flow.

Given that the under-tank hose is clear, I think there must be a blockage in the moulded-into-the-tank inner hose. I bunged some vinegar down the hole at the tank cap end in the hope it would gently eat its way though whatever the blockage may be. We shall see.

I then put the fuel cap back onto the tank & the tank back onto the bike.

Then I got a bit carried away and fitted the fairing.

Then I thought "might as well" so I fitted the screen too.

And then I got a bit over-excited and started the bike. For the first minute or so it really didn't want to tick over, however I kept the throttle open just enough to keep it running. When I let the throttle go... it sat there and happily ticked over!

Dash:

Front:

Behind:

Hurrah!!

So there are a few jobs left to do (oh I sorted the sticking starter switch with some PTFE spray) - I need to do the tyre pressures and ideally I would rather like to change the front brake fluid. Oh and I need to book an MOT*

* for those that don't live in the UK, an MOT is a legally mandated annual roadworthiness test. Without it passing that test, I cannot ride the bike on the road (except to take it to the test.)

 

[Brian UK]

Could I suggest you do not use a rachet strap to force the tank forward enough to get that rear bolt in place. I know of one tank which split down the back following this proceedure. They can't be repaired.
Better to relieve the hole at the back with a file. Mine is now slotted about 1/4 inch.

I have the Helibar risers so pushing the tank forward fouls them and they hit the tank at full lock. Had to file the back off them too, and the bottom edge to the top yoke.