How on earth would you know?
Do you know my finances? Do you know where I live, my time constraints, in fact anything at all? It may always be an option to you or in theory, but in actual reality it is not an option for me, no matter what you think.
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Refurbishing my 2007 Norge
- Thread startermylovelyhorse
- Start date
Do you know my finances? Do you know where I live, my time constraints, in fact anything at all? It may always be an option to you or in theory, but in actual reality it is not an option for me, no matter what you think.
Actually it is an option you have chosen not to take. I wish you luck with the repair.
The Mrs went down the local recycling centre yesterday and picked up an old single mattress for a couple of quid. That’s good because for a while the Norge got a bit tired and emotional so it had to have a lie down.
This might be because all it’s tupperware and battery had come off, along with the centre-stand, right foot peg & mounting plate. While it was sleeping, with help from two friends, I removed the gearbox drain plug. I think I have mentioned that the thread had stripped on this. Over the last week or two I have acquired the replacement sump plug kit [1] adjustable tap socket set [2] and bottle of cutting fluid [3].
Once the bike was lying down I used the tap that came with the sump plug kit to take the thread out to M11 x 1.5 and fitted a new drain plug from the same kit. The alternative is, as has been noted, to remove the engine & gearbox assembly from the frame, essentially dismantling the whole bike, and take the gearbox off to get an engineering company to do the same job. I didn’t fancy any of that, but if the tapping had gone badly then that’d have been the next step. Fortunately it went slowly, carefully and well. The torque for the sump plug is (IIRC) 20Nm and I did it slowly - 10 then 15 then 20. Just in case...
While all this was apart, we took the opportunity to clean up and properly grease the centre-stand pivot too. Dry as a bone it was. Getting the centre-stand back together took a bit of faffing about but in the end the stand went on and the side plate too. It took a lot longer to do than to write, I can tell you!
A while back, after ages trying to figure out what something said in the parts manual, I realised that ‘15,08x2,62viton’ meant a viton o-ring of internal diameter 15.08mm and with a cross section of 2.62mm. The original part is long out of stock so decoding that string was really important. The bike needed just *one*, to go around the spigot on the internal oil screen on the oil intake. I now have 29 spares
On went the inner sump, using a bit of Loctite 518 flange sealant on each side of the new gasket. Next on went the lower sump, again with Loctite 518 flange sealant on the gasket and a spot of Loctite 648 (IIRC) on each of the retaining bolts. A real pain in the backside four handed of a job, this would have been really difficult if one friend hadn’t stayed later than he should and provided the second set of hands. I also reconnected the oil cooler hoses and blow-by-system hose. The oil filter got filled with nice new fully synthetic 10w60 Silkolene (plus a wipe round the rubber seal with oil) and into place it went, done up to the specified 15Nm.
Penultimate activity was to put 500ml of oil into the gearbox and torque up the filler cap. Last activity was to put around 3 - 3 1/3rd litres of oil into the sump. I checked an couple of hours later & none had leaked out... I haven’t checked yet this morning
Today I will check the oil using the dipstick & get the level to the mid-point, re-fit the dashboard and battery, put some fuel back in and run the bike. It has to run sooner or later so it might as well be today. If I’ve got something catastrophically wrong, better to know soonest!
Many, many thanks to my friends for being great chums and giving up their sunny Saturday to help me get the bike sorted. Without their help I think that would have been a week’s work done not nearly as well. I really appreciate it!
[1] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MSSTE8H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TH28CbQW7H4F1
[2] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000TGM7HY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9J28CbZZFYX6J
[3] https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M...070455
This might be because all it’s tupperware and battery had come off, along with the centre-stand, right foot peg & mounting plate. While it was sleeping, with help from two friends, I removed the gearbox drain plug. I think I have mentioned that the thread had stripped on this. Over the last week or two I have acquired the replacement sump plug kit [1] adjustable tap socket set [2] and bottle of cutting fluid [3].
Once the bike was lying down I used the tap that came with the sump plug kit to take the thread out to M11 x 1.5 and fitted a new drain plug from the same kit. The alternative is, as has been noted, to remove the engine & gearbox assembly from the frame, essentially dismantling the whole bike, and take the gearbox off to get an engineering company to do the same job. I didn’t fancy any of that, but if the tapping had gone badly then that’d have been the next step. Fortunately it went slowly, carefully and well. The torque for the sump plug is (IIRC) 20Nm and I did it slowly - 10 then 15 then 20. Just in case...
While all this was apart, we took the opportunity to clean up and properly grease the centre-stand pivot too. Dry as a bone it was. Getting the centre-stand back together took a bit of faffing about but in the end the stand went on and the side plate too. It took a lot longer to do than to write, I can tell you!
A while back, after ages trying to figure out what something said in the parts manual, I realised that ‘15,08x2,62viton’ meant a viton o-ring of internal diameter 15.08mm and with a cross section of 2.62mm. The original part is long out of stock so decoding that string was really important. The bike needed just *one*, to go around the spigot on the internal oil screen on the oil intake. I now have 29 spares
On went the inner sump, using a bit of Loctite 518 flange sealant on each side of the new gasket. Next on went the lower sump, again with Loctite 518 flange sealant on the gasket and a spot of Loctite 648 (IIRC) on each of the retaining bolts. A real pain in the backside four handed of a job, this would have been really difficult if one friend hadn’t stayed later than he should and provided the second set of hands. I also reconnected the oil cooler hoses and blow-by-system hose. The oil filter got filled with nice new fully synthetic 10w60 Silkolene (plus a wipe round the rubber seal with oil) and into place it went, done up to the specified 15Nm.
Penultimate activity was to put 500ml of oil into the gearbox and torque up the filler cap. Last activity was to put around 3 - 3 1/3rd litres of oil into the sump. I checked an couple of hours later & none had leaked out... I haven’t checked yet this morning
Today I will check the oil using the dipstick & get the level to the mid-point, re-fit the dashboard and battery, put some fuel back in and run the bike. It has to run sooner or later so it might as well be today. If I’ve got something catastrophically wrong, better to know soonest!
Many, many thanks to my friends for being great chums and giving up their sunny Saturday to help me get the bike sorted. Without their help I think that would have been a week’s work done not nearly as well. I really appreciate it!
[1] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MSSTE8H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TH28CbQW7H4F1
[2] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000TGM7HY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9J28CbZZFYX6J
[3] https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M...070455
- Joined
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Two quick points:
* You may now have the first Guzzi ever infested with bed bugs!
* I recommend that you put your Norge upright before checking fuids.
Seriously, very impressive. And, congrats. Removing and reinstalling that much cladding is, alone, a chore of not insignificant proportions, and one usually best reserved for long, dark winter days.
Bill
* You may now have the first Guzzi ever infested with bed bugs!
* I recommend that you put your Norge upright before checking fuids.
Seriously, very impressive. And, congrats. Removing and reinstalling that much cladding is, alone, a chore of not insignificant proportions, and one usually best reserved for long, dark winter days.
Bill
This morning I watched Moto3 (great race) but after that, I added put the dash back on the Norge, temporarily, reconnected the battery and topped the oil up to close to the top line. I ran it for (literally) 10 seconds and then gave it 5 minutes to rest. I topped up the oil again and checked over the sump for leaks. I can't currently see any anywhere round the sump seams, although there was a drip hang off the bottom of the oil filer cartridge. As I fitted that full, I am hoping that is from fitting and not an identification of a bigger problem. I topped the oil up and ran the bike again. This time much quieter, it soon settled into the familiar tick-over I expect. Again I only ran it for 10 seconds.
I have a little video of the 2nd run:
Next I shall order some more oil - my 4 litre container has already pretty much gone. After that, the bike gets thoroughly checked for leaks and if none can be found, the engine goes back on for a 5 minute run with gearbox test (will it go into 1st, take a little torque and easily shift back into neutral.)
Last job will be to put the Tupperware back on and - again - check the oil. I have a little fixing problem with the fairing, but that’s for another post after I am clearer about what’s good and what isn’t in that area.
(edited to give a better video URL)
I have a little video of the 2nd run:
Next I shall order some more oil - my 4 litre container has already pretty much gone. After that, the bike gets thoroughly checked for leaks and if none can be found, the engine goes back on for a 5 minute run with gearbox test (will it go into 1st, take a little torque and easily shift back into neutral.)
Last job will be to put the Tupperware back on and - again - check the oil. I have a little fixing problem with the fairing, but that’s for another post after I am clearer about what’s good and what isn’t in that area.
(edited to give a better video URL)
Last edited:
OK so epic fail on the running in gear test. Very loud knocking from driveshaft or CARC when idling in 1st, clutch out. Pick up the revs and it disappears, but there's clearly something wrong at idle. Current thought is that it's the drive shaft and there's lash that's taken up when it spins faster than idle. Bike not ridable, obviously, and it may be that I literally left something off in reassembly, but as I didn't touch the CARC and driveshaft, I doubt it. Maybe lying on it's side dislodged something. Not back to square one, but...
Attached is a sound file (mp3) of the bike running. At around 14 seconds you can hear me put the bike into gear and let the clutch out. Clanking ensues
Also, here is a link to a short video of the bike running sweetly at tickover
And a hosted copy of the sound file I attached https://vocaroo.com/i/s1yxP1AkQRFI that might be easier to use
Also, here is a link to a short video of the bike running sweetly at tickover
And a hosted copy of the sound file I attached https://vocaroo.com/i/s1yxP1AkQRFI that might be easier to use
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Brian UK
GT Reference
Just don't do it. The noise will scare you.
Too damn right - and some research shows They're All Like That Sir - which I am sure includes a post from you in Another Place
The bike is cooling in the garage, not leaking at all and so will get put back together once I've watched Moto2 and had my tea.
I do have some problems with the fairing panels, particularly around the silver trim by the cylinder heads, so there will be more to come in a bit...
Tonight, the tupperware all goes back on.
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That’s very much cleaner and tidier than mine - plus I envy you the bench
The great reassembly started with the engine on Saturday and now moves, slowly, to the fairing. It’s not as complex as later Norge fairings but there’s still quite a lot of bits, some of which are still a bit oily from before. I washed out the insides of both main side panels, reducing their weight considerably, I should say.
Unfortunately the silver trim designed to go round the front of the right cylinder head decided to abandon ship. It had done this before and I thought I had fixed it with a putty-like substance used by modellers (can’t recall the brand name) but it clearly hadn’t taken properly:
Not quite sure what to do with that so I suspect it will have to be left off for the time being.
I left that and the other main panels to dry, taking the time to refit the belly pan, two minor side panels and the seat. It may not be rideable yet but it’s nice to see the seat on there
Unfortunately the silver trim designed to go round the front of the right cylinder head decided to abandon ship. It had done this before and I thought I had fixed it with a putty-like substance used by modellers (can’t recall the brand name) but it clearly hadn’t taken properly:
Not quite sure what to do with that so I suspect it will have to be left off for the time being.
I left that and the other main panels to dry, taking the time to refit the belly pan, two minor side panels and the seat. It may not be rideable yet but it’s nice to see the seat on there
Brian UK
GT Reference
Plasic Weld - used by modellers.
Yeah, that’s what didn’t work the 1st time round, unfortunately.
This evening I used some epoxy resin to just hold the silver trim to the fairing panel. I then used some clear epoxy resin on very thing glass fibre fabric to hold it firmly in place. It’s drying overnight and will be ready to go back on tomorrow.
The task for tomorrow evening will be to refit fairing sides, top fairing and instruments & some other panels, including the hugger (if I have time). I have to remember where things go - frankly when I can’t remember I’m using the exploded diagrams on the Fowler’s Parts site to guide me
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^^^^^^
Some of the forward fasteners in the large fairing are special fun. My wife -- whose hands are way smaller than mine -- actually (and cheerfully
) helped with her little fingers to get the most vexing screws started.
I am in Erie, Pa., just now for nearby western N.Y. Guzzi rally. Rode my Norge. What a joy on some fine back roads cutting across the Appalachian spine.
OBTW, be prepared for your rear brake becoming useless when unridden for some time. Odd, but seems to affect ABS CARC models more than others, and ABS Norges most of all. That is extracted from my unscientific data collection "system."
Seriously, had to bleed and add along the way to bring up to standard. Yes, should have checked before launching. Think that there are threads here about this phenom.
Two pics. One at start; other with Eldo friend who joined me fr a (very wet at times
) 300-miler.
Bill
P.S. My panniers are being painted, thus the half-naked look.
Some of the forward fasteners in the large fairing are special fun. My wife -- whose hands are way smaller than mine -- actually (and cheerfully
) helped with her little fingers to get the most vexing screws started. I am in Erie, Pa., just now for nearby western N.Y. Guzzi rally. Rode my Norge. What a joy on some fine back roads cutting across the Appalachian spine.
OBTW, be prepared for your rear brake becoming useless when unridden for some time. Odd, but seems to affect ABS CARC models more than others, and ABS Norges most of all. That is extracted from my unscientific data collection "system."
Seriously, had to bleed and add along the way to bring up to standard. Yes, should have checked before launching. Think that there are threads here about this phenom. Two pics. One at start; other with Eldo friend who joined me fr a (very wet at times
) 300-miler.Bill
P.S. My panniers are being painted, thus the half-naked look.
I did a bit of work on the bike this evening (excuse the untidy working area):
The next jobs are:
1. Set up static sag on rear shock
1a. Do tyre pressures
2. Test ride
3. Check for leaks
4. More test riding (hopefully!)
Thank you to everyone that has given me advice on this work - I really appreciate it
The next jobs are:
1. Set up static sag on rear shock
1a. Do tyre pressures
2. Test ride
3. Check for leaks
4. More test riding (hopefully!)
Thank you to everyone that has given me advice on this work - I really appreciate it
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Yeah, I noticed that
It took me all evening to get the fairing back on. Some of the lugs are very frail now and one has broken off but as it just retains the black upper fairing / instruments cowl near the ABS button, I’m going to ignore that for the time being. I had to use a washer & nut to retain that utterly daft little black screw that goes under the headlamp assembly as the end of the little fixing had abandoned ship too. Still, it seems to be holding. Time will tell.
Mountain roads are rather fabulous, aren’t they. Looking forward to taking the Norge to Italy in July and Wales later this year.
Noticed that the other day. A quick bleed sorted it out. Probably something to do with the ABS system.
Nice picsTwo pics. One at start; other with Eldo friend who joined me fr a (very wet at times
Have you found a way to make the panniers waterproof?
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Yeah, I noticed that
<snip>
Mountain roads are rather fabulous, aren’t they. Looking forward to taking the Norge to Italy in July and Wales later this year.
<snip>
Have you found a way to make the panniers waterproof?
Your "I’m going to ignore that for the time being" has become my Moto Guzzi mantra. Works most of the time.
Where will you be riding in Italy?
Yes, as to making the panniers waterproof: https://tinyurl.com/Water-Proofin-g-Norge-Panniers
Seriously, while that is my personal, no-fail solution, I also use custom-fit inner bags when monsoons are predicted; see https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/bag-liners-for-norge.2871/ Makes bringing contents in easier on overnighters. Those particular ones are waterproof, but, regrettably, no longer unavailable,
Finally, while possibly also on the unavailable list, Guzzi did come out with a new seal for those a few years ago. I never bothered.
Off to the rally ...
Ciao.
Bill
The ham-fisted previous owner of my 2007 Norge cross-threaded one of the bolts going through the right hand plate that mounts the foot peg assembly into the frame. They were using a bent bolt, which begs the questions how the flying fsck did they bend the bolt and why did they then decide to reuse it?!
Anyhow, in the pictures you can see the bent bolt and the frame / plate location.
For now I’ve left the bolt out - I have plenty of others with the same thread so I can replace that easily enough. Question is, do I run a same-size tap through the frame threads to try and clean up where the mullered threads are or do I (can I) run a slightly larger tap through and slightly enlarge the hole in the plate to let a next-size-up bolt fit? Or is there another option I don’t know of?
The offending bolt:
And where it goes:
Anyhow, in the pictures you can see the bent bolt and the frame / plate location.
For now I’ve left the bolt out - I have plenty of others with the same thread so I can replace that easily enough. Question is, do I run a same-size tap through the frame threads to try and clean up where the mullered threads are or do I (can I) run a slightly larger tap through and slightly enlarge the hole in the plate to let a next-size-up bolt fit? Or is there another option I don’t know of?
The offending bolt:
And where it goes:
