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Refurbishing my 2007 Norge

Your "I’m going to ignore that for the time being" has become my Moto Guzzi mantra. Works most of the time. :giggle:

Hahaha well it’s often the best way :)

Where will you be riding in Italy?

The Stella Alpina


Bah ;(

custom-fit inner bags when monsoons are predicted; see https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/bag-liners-for-norge.2871/ Makes bringing contents in easier on overnighters. Those particular ones are waterproof, but, regrettably, no longer unavailable,
Yeah I guess something like that is the way, although I suspect I’ll just be sticking with bin bags...

Finally, while possibly also on the unavailable list, Guzzi did come out with a new seal for those a few years ago. I never bothered.

I might look into those. I’ll let you know.

Off to the rally ...

Ciao.

Enjoy :)
 
The ham-fisted previous owner of my 2007 Norge cross-threaded one of the bolts going through the right hand plate that mounts the foot peg assembly into the frame. They were using a bent bolt, which begs the questions how the flying fsck did they bend the bolt and why did they then decide to reuse it?!

Anyhow, in the pictures you can see the bent bolt and the frame / plate location.

For now I’ve left the bolt out - I have plenty of others with the same thread so I can replace that easily enough. Question is, do I run a same-size tap through the frame threads to try and clean up where the mullered threads are or do I (can I) run a slightly larger tap through and slightly enlarge the hole in the plate to let a next-size-up bolt fit? Or is there another option I don’t know of?

The offending bolt:
FDDTcUx.jpg


And where it goes:
vf08rAd.jpg

I'd try to just clean up the threads with the same size tap. If to damaged, I'd install a helicoil to keep all bold sizes the same.
 
Yeah, that’s what didn’t work the 1st time round, unfortunately.

This evening I used some epoxy resin to just hold the silver trim to the fairing panel. I then used some clear epoxy resin on very thing glass fibre fabric to hold it firmly in place. It’s drying overnight and will be ready to go back on tomorrow.
You said you used a putty like material. Plastic weld is a clear liquid which melts the ABS and welds it together.
 
Yesterday afternoon, after the rain had stopped and with the sun gently warming Hampshire, I thought it’d be a good idea to take the Norge for a ride to see how it goes after all the work I’ve done.

I rode 3 miles to a nearby (ish) petrol station and bunged some injector system cleaner in the tank followed by a goodly portion of super unleaded (97 RON). Oh and I checked the sump and gearbox for leaks. Nothing visible.

I then took a ride up the A32 from Fareham to Alton. It’s a nice road, not too technical but with some lovely curves. I’ve ridden it for years on a multitude of bikes.

I had to stop after a while and take a few clicks of preload off the rear shock. Now the original 2007 shock needed to be almost at the max preload to avoid wallowing. This (2008) shock was set to about 1/3rdof the way up the range so to then be taking some off is excellent. It’s no Ohlins shock but it ain’t half an improvement on the old one.

The fairing is - as we know - nice and protective, which is good ‘cos it widdled it down several times on the 57 miles I did in total. The seating position still feels just, well, right.

And the engine... it still feels just fab. I rode it carefully for the 3 miles to the petrol station and nearly as carefully for another 10. Then I gave it the big ‘un and it Went :)

The willingness to rev, the excellent surge of torque, the engine braking - all of which I remember from before - they’re all there alright. The way it delivers power is just lovely. I didn’t exceed the limit, of course, because I’m a good boy, but I got to the limit and was able to stay at the limit in a very pleasant way!

When I got home I checked the oil and found it low. I assume this is just the engine and oil radiator filling up in every nook, cranny & hose. It took about 60ml to bring it back to where it should be (halfway between E & F is right, isn’t it?) Oh and I really carefully checked all the gaskets and oil seals. No visible leaks :D

There are a few jobs to do yes but they’re really minor. There’s a bracket missing inside the fairing (ordered), there’s a threaded bolt on on one of the footpeg hangers (see other post re: cross-threading), the right pannier won’t (yet) lock into place and I can’t find where I’ve put 6 tiny screws that help retain the fairing inner panel. No biggie for now but I want to find and fit them.

All in all, very satisfactory.
 
This morning a large box arrived. In it was a small fairing bracket. This evening I installed it on the bike (old one had clearly broken off and in fact was still bolted to the side of the engine). I also found the six little screws that help retain the inner cowl on the upper fairing so at least that’s attached properly now.

I have the right tap to deal with the threaded retainer but I’ve not got round to it yet. The pannier retaining mechanism got greased so hopefully it will start working when I next try it. I have a mate does tyres and I am waiting for a pair of Pilot Road IVs to turn up and be fitted.

I keep feeling tempted by a HyperPro set of fork springs but for the time being I think that’ll have to wait.
 
You'll love the Road 4's. When I switched from the Pirelli Angel that were on it the bike was transformed. Road 4 GT I assume.

I try very hard in tires not to be a "Ford, Chevy, or Dodge guy," i.e., a diehard brand loyalist blind to the merits of other models and changes. That said, I have nothing but great experiences on my Norge and Griso with Michelin Pilot Roads series ... think they dropped the "Pilot" part recently.

Have had 2's, 3's, and now 4's on both, with, most recently, GT's. Simply cannot say enough.

I say (and mean) that I "don't care about mileage," as I mostly don't want to fall down rather than fall down. Still, tires ain't cheap and I was startled the first time I switched to 4's and found that my usual "cords at 4.2K" on the rear set routine became 8K!

And, again, of greater import to me, they are the proverbial "on rails glue" on the road, even in very wet conditions.

The stiffer sidewalls of the GT's are essential if one weighs -- as, erm, I do :think: -- more than a thoroughbred jockey at Churchill Downs, without even getting to my (quite svelte) Perfect Pillion & Polish Princess's propensity to bring along a safari's level of clothing and personal hygiene/beauty supplies! :makeup:

Slightly off topic but... does anybody know if the hole with the chrome trim at the bottom of the picture serves a purpose? Everybody that looks at my Norge asks what it's for and I don't have the answer.

It's the access port for the equalizing harmonizer. :giggle:

Seriously, I tell folks that, but, as is obvious, have no clue. Think the silver plastic is simply a "decorative" cover for the hollow rod on which the rear end pivots.

Have seen that used to support Norges on lifts from above, but never had the need.

Best,

Bill
 
You'll love the Road 4's. When I switched from the Pirelli Angel that were on it the bike was transformed. Road 4 GT I assume.

New tyres are always nice anyway* and I’m looking forward to riding the bike with them fitted :)

* except for a pair of Continentals I had once that had been badly moulded and wouldn’t hold a straight line
 
Slightly off topic but... does anybody know if the hole with the chrome trim at the bottom of the picture serves a purpose? Everybody that looks at my Norge asks what it's for and I don't have the answer.
As Bill commented on already, the tube is a pivotal part of the frame. It is used as a transition for the upper frame tubes, gearbox tabs, suspension and swing arm (see pic below). My guess as to why they chose to highlight it is part throwback to the spine frame Sport(s) and part visual break of what would be a too big slab of aluminum, one that other (largely) Asian brands are good with. In short, it’s purely cosmetic.
Happy Father’s Day to all.

7C41C81A-83BE-4361-A8DA-9774B9176BC0.webp
 
We have a mate Al who lives in Ruislip, North London. He’s a good chap with a lovely family and we’ve been friends for years. It was really great, then, to take the Norge with Susie, beloved wife, as pillion and go up to see them yesterday. There was a secondary objective because as a side job he supplies & fits motorcycle tyres and had got in a pair of Michelin Pilot Road 4s for the bike.

We went up the A32 and along the A272 to Winchester and then on the M3 to the M25 where we encountered very heavy traffic and jumped off the M25 for the A30. A pretty easy journey and the Norge behaved well, Susie declaring the pillion seat to be most comfortable. Both of us noted the pegs to be higher than on the GS, not in a way that is uncomfortable as such, but not what we’re used to. I had to stretch my legs at one point, something I also do on the GS - but on the Norge I needed to be more aware of my boots rubbing on the tarmac :)

I’ve done quite a lot of work on the Norge as you know but because the front brakes feel good - initially gentle but then very sharp - I’ve just ignored them. Al noted that the pinch bolts were rather solidly in place with no evidence of copper-slip and to match that the wheel spindle was absolutely grease free. The callipers were in need of a little clean but there is enough meat on the pads for them not to need changing until well after the Stella Alpina. There was nothing wrong with the wheel bearings either, which is a relief.

The rear wheel did not want to come off the single sided swinging arm. It took a fair few belts with a rubber mallet to break the corrosion holding it in place. There was clear evidence of an old leak from the CARC bevel box, with a new-ish looking seal and older looking oil residue on the lowest part of the box. I’ll keep an eye on it over the next few weeks and get some miles on it, just in case the seal has gone, but I strongly suspect that the seal was fairly recently changed by someone who didn’t give a fig for cleaning up the leaked fluids. We shall see.

The new tyres went on easily and were balanced with 10g on each wheel, which isn’t a lot considering there was a gert long strip of weights on each wheel from the last time balancing was done. The old tyres felt horribly thin and flexible once off & Al noted that it wouldn’t have been long before I’d have had a puncture. They weren’t far off the end of the tread and frankly I’ve no idea how long they’d been on the bike. They were Michelin Pilot Road 3s, the model before the ones being fitted, but that could mean they were 2012 tyres...

The new tyres being on and the time having come to depart, I was a little concerned not to do anything stupid with Herself on the back. As it happens though, the bike felt immediately good. The new tyres felt smoother than the old but gripped nicely from the off. We took the A30 again, nice and not too quick to get used to the handling, then the M25, the A3, the A31 and then down the ever-pleasant A32. The tyres felt lovely, the bike handled and generally behaved very well. It’s thirstier than the GS but we did 185 miles with some fuel left in the tank (maybe 1/8th) so range is good. I think I ought to balance the throttle bodies and reset the TPS, but will need to do some proper reading up to see how to do that. I have the software and the necessary connector but don’t actually know what to do exactly. Yet!

All in all, a lovely day to go riding, great to see Al & family, lovely to get new boots on the Norge :)
 
I’ve had a profitable evening spending a little more time on the Norge. The hazards now work after I dismantled the switch and gave it a clean with contact cleaning spray. They stuck on for a while which was, er, amusing, but I fixed that :)

I’ve found somewhere to neatly hide the connector for my battery tender - on the back of the black plastic sheet that covers the rear shock adjuster.

After some fiddling, the panniers now fit and lock into place. It is - I hope - shaping up for the Stella Alpina in only a few weeks :)
 
Creeping progress - last night I reset the TPS successfully. First time I’ve used the old laptop and cable setup.

So... next job is to balance the throttle bodies. No idea how to do that! Some furious googling to follow!
 
Creeping progress - last night I reset the TPS successfully. First time I’ve used the old laptop and cable setup.

So... next job is to balance the throttle bodies. No idea how to do that! Some furious googling to follow!

See my post with the references to a thread and manual. The TPS will need to be reset after you balance the throttle bodies.
 
Cheapest way is to make your own manometer, length of thin plastic tube, a metre length of wood and some ATF to put in the tube.

As yours is an 07 bike (what date is stamped on the frame behind the headstock?) check the rear wheel has no side to side play at the rim. The large CARC bearing fitted to the early models was known to be made of cheese.
 
As yours is an 07 bike (what date is stamped on the frame behind the headstock?)
Can't see a date, am not taking tank / fairing off to have a better look. Can only see VIN plate on headstock & there's wires obscuring some of it :(

check the rear wheel has no side to side play at the rim. The large CARC bearing fitted to the early models was known to be made of cheese.
It doesn't. the CARC bearing seal looks pretty fresh & clean so I think that has been replaced recently.
 
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