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Refurbishing my 2007 Norge

Norge: a minor progress report:

1. The hoses to the oil cooler were a major cause of oil leakage so Thurs lunchtime I took them (with cooler) to a local hydraulics company & they can supply the hoses, fittings etc, all made up, for less than 1/2 the price of the OEM kit

2. Generator drive pulley nut is back back on (80Nm & a dose of Loctite 243)
PqtX5hf.jpg


3. Pulley grooves have been cleaned up with a brass hand brush & then a brass wheel in my Dremel

4. Face of the generator has had a mild cleaning & it's been remounted in place
n4k8Ht2.jpg


5. Generator belt housing has been cleaned up
8QGKUj8.jpg


6. Generator adjuster bolt back in place
DcFAhl8.jpg


I don’t right like the look of the alternator main electrical connector but I can’t get it undone.
s7pdDN5.jpg


I have a new belt ready to be fitted but ran out of time today. I will do the 90o twist method of setting adjustment.
 
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That pulley cleaned up well.
Make sure you put some anti corrosion liquid on that terminal, stop it getting worse, and might help it to come off later.

A bad connection there could reduce the running voltage of the system. On mine I found a burned connector in that wire to the side of the relays under the seat. Working voltage was 13v instead of over 14. I added an extra wire from the terminal to the battery. Everything is much better now.
 
Brian UK said:
That pulley cleaned up well.
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Yeah, I was pleased.

Make sure you put some anti corrosion liquid on that terminal, stop it getting worse, and might help it to come off later. A bad connection there could reduce the running voltage of the system.
Click to expand...
Yes indeed - and it’s difficult to be sure because of losses between ECU etc and dashboard but it was never showing more than 13.5v on the dashboard voltage display. Mind you, I didn’t check that particularly often.

On mine I found a burned connector in that wire to the side of the relays under the seat. Working voltage was 13v instead of over 14. I added an extra wire from the terminal to the battery. Everything is much better now.
Click to expand...
Good idea, think I shall do the same. Direct from that post to the battery, you say? What grade of wiring did you use? I’ve got some 2mm, might have some 4mm somewhere too.
 
As long as it's flexible multi strand, 2mm would be adequate. If you were only seeing 13.5v then you will notice how much brighter the headlight will be with the extra wire.
It was the dim headlight which prompted me to check mine.
 
Brian UK said:
As long as it's flexible multi strand, 2mm would be adequate. If you were only seeing 13.5v then you will notice how much brighter the headlight will be with the extra wire.
It was the dim headlight which prompted me to check mine.
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Cool. So you ran a cable direct from alternator output to battery terminal. No connector in between, no fuse, nothing?
 
kiwi dave said:
Without a fuse, if there was a short in the alternator/rectifier wouldn't the battery drain at a tremendous rate, possibly causing a fire?

Personally, I would include a fuse.
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Yeah, I was thinking that and a 30A fuse will be included if I install this cable.
 
On all the vehicles I have worked on until very recently, I have never seen a fuse in that line. One of the problems on the Guzzi is the poor connection in that fuse, especially when you have 30 Amps flowing through it. Thoe connectors on those standard little fuses are not good enough for that sort of current. However, if you feel happier with a fuse, no problem, just make sure the connectors are up to it.
 
So last night I spent some time making a thin 10mm spanner a bit thinner with my Dremel. This was so that I could use it to grip the nut under the terminal on the alternator. I had previously tried to undo the +ve terminal so I could clean it up (see picture in previous post) and without gripping the lower nut I felt the post moving. Don’t like that.

Off came the connection, followed by the frankly rather mucky alternator. I gave the surface a brief scrub then set it aside to go back on. I’ve made up the necessary fused cable but haven’t decided if I will install it yet. I have also got a spare earth strap that I think I’ll use to connect battery -ve to engine when things start to go back together. That’s an awful lot chunkier that 2mm thin wall cabling :)

Short night in the garage last night. Alternator going back on tonight then I’m going to put the new belt on and try to trace some of the extra cabling that I’ve found - including for example a second feed to the horns.
 
Brian UK said:
On all the vehicles I have worked on until very recently, I have never seen a fuse in that line. One of the problems on the Guzzi is the poor connection in that fuse, especially when you have 30 Amps flowing through it. Thoe connectors on those standard little fuses are not good enough for that sort of current.
Click to expand...

Well, given I’m not prepared to fit a direct battery to alternator cable without a fuse, what sort of fuse do you recommend?
 
Brian UK said:
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/355/strip-midi-fuse-holder
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That is, in fact, exactly what I have ordered for the inline fuse. Your point re terminals is a good one.

I shan't be doing anything else at all to the bike for the next couple of weeks because I am working away for a week & there's non-bike stuff to do the week after, but once I'm back on it the first job is to put the alternator back on, bung the belt back on & run this fused cable along to the battery.
 
Sigh

A retrograde step today. The local company that said they could make me up a new pair of hoses for the oil cooler have finally come back with a quote (after originally saying ~ £80) that is more than the cost of a new pair from a M-G spares place. I’m working away from home at the moment so I wouldn't be able to fit them now but it’d be comforting to be able to order them in.

I’ll have to look for a second hand pair in better condition than my leaky ones. Curses.
 
A package turned up this morning containing some oily bits: a set of 2nd hand replacement oil cooler hoses for my Norge have arrived from Gutsibits. Hurrah!

Once I have completed all my non-motorcycle tasks I shall be able to get the alternator back on, new belt on, cover on and oil cooler back in place. The first step in The Great Reassembly will soon (ish) begin! Probably.

So, what does the panel think is the best way to clean up these braided oil hoses before I fit them to the bike? Obviously I don’t want to use a product that damages the internal, oil bearing, surfaces - but equally I don’t want to put them on mucky and do not be able to see if there’s a subsequent leak.
 
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The Great Norge Rebuild has (just) begun. This afternoon I spent some time cleaning up the secondhand oil cooler hoses I got from Gutsibits. The secondhand oil cooler hoses have had the best part of an hour in my ultrasonic cleaner. Look at the muck that came off them:

UjGxxlV.jpg


I’ve left them out to dry now they’ve had a good cleaning and the moisture wiped off:

LHTdMt8.jpg


The price from Gutsibits included the hose from airbox to the rear of the sump and I felt that was well worth having so as you can see in the 2nd picture there’s 3 hoses cleaned and drying. I have no idea if the rear hose was dodgy on mine but it can’t hurt to replace it seeing as I’ve got it.

I also refitted the alternator and belt. I set belt tension at tight enough to let me twist the belt 90o but not slack enough to allow too much more movement. I’ve nipped up the alternator belt mounting bolts but not tightened them up properly yet. Once I have the alternator mounting bolts torqued up (tomorrow evening I hope) then the cover will go back on with new high tensile steel bolts.

Next step will be the coils remounted and the oil cooler going back on. I’d like to fill it before refitting but I don’t think that’s practical. That - I hope - will be tomorrow or Tuesday evening’s activity.
 
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