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Removing fuel line quick disconnect

john zibell said:
Bill, Those BMW style connectors are easy to use. When I install the pair on a BMW, I switch orientation of one of them so they can't be connected incorrectly since on a BMW, one side is pressure to the injectors and the other is return.
Click to expand...

A bit off topic, but another way to avoid cross-coupling two fuel line connectors is to NOT install them next to one another. Ensure the connectors are installed few inches apart and you'll never be able to pair them up incorrectly. The shorter tails and connectors won't reach when you mix the lines up!!

Tony
 
Bill Hagan said:
As for the tautologically named "quick release," I got sick of 'em and replaced my Norge and Griso's with these:
beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html
Bill
Click to expand...
Those Beemer fittings look like just the beez neez. However, on the V7iii the fuel tank side is a (hard) plastic elbow onto which the fuel hose connects. Both sides of those Beemer fittings have barbs to fit them into fuel hose. My best/easiest solution is the keep the existing (so-called) quick connector and cut the fuel hose at a convenient point and insert the new Beemer connectors.

Any better ideas out there?

Btw, if you only want 1 couple, as for the V7iii, go here:
beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon1.html

Hmmmm, just went buy some and US Post saved me. $US40 for the parts $US57 for postage.
Promptly cancelled the order.
 
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Dinsdale Piranha said:
Those Beemer fittings look like just the beez neez. However, on the V7iii the fuel tank side is a (hard) plastic elbow onto which the fuel hose connects. Both sides of those Beemer fittings have barbs to fit them into fuel hose. My best/easiest solution is the keep the existing (so-called) quick connector and cut the fuel hose at a convenient point and insert the new Beemer connectors.

Any better ideas out there?

Btw, if you only want 1 couple, as for the V7iii, go here:
beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon1.html

Hmmmm, just went buy some and US Post saved me. $US40 for the parts $US57 for postage.
Promptly cancelled the order.
Click to expand...


You can get the BMW part numbers for their disconnect here. shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51768&rnd=07242017 This site is also in the US so try an Aussie dealer. They will be plastic but easier that the Guzzi fitting. Do note that BMW recommends replacing the o-ring each time it is disconnected.
 
Dinsdale Piranha said:
Those Beemer fittings look like just the beez neez. However, on the V7iii the fuel tank side is a (hard) plastic elbow onto which the fuel hose connects. Both sides of those Beemer fittings have barbs to fit them into fuel hose. My best/easiest solution is the keep the existing (so-called) quick connector and cut the fuel hose at a convenient point and insert the new Beemer connectors.

Any better ideas out there?

Hmmmm, just went buy some and US Post saved me. $US40 for the parts $US57 for postage.
Promptly cancelled the order.
Click to expand...

Cannot imagine that it would cost that much to just send those to you from here. You could buy and have shipped to me; I'd then send to you. OTOH, if that gets too bureaucratic, I could buy and send to you for reimbursement of shipping.

I've shipped to Oz before and big stuff made me feel I'd been raped. If interested, let me know; I'll ask at P.O. for an estimate. It was a small little package.

Bill
 
Dinsdale Piranha said:
Those Beemer fittings look like just the beez neez. However, on the V7iii the fuel tank side is a (hard) plastic elbow onto which the fuel hose connects.

Any better ideas out there?
Click to expand...

I plan to splice new connectors into the fuel line of my 1200 Sport. I bought chrome plated brass connectors, made by CPC - check out CPC, they are a global manufacturer making quality connectors. There may be a local supplier in your country. I have not installed mine yet but those I have have a 1/4" ID (6.4mm). Importantly, select connectors that use ethanol-resistant VITROL seals. The CPC connectors have automatic shut-off valves on disconnection.

The CPC parts I have are items LCD170-04V and LCD220-04V. The "V" is important, it denotes Vitrol units.

Tony
 
I'm fairly sure that I have 5/16" ID fuel hose on my V7iii. Can anyone confirm/deny that for me please.

Bill Hagan, that's a mighty fine offer which I will probably accept once I have conformation of my fuel hose size.
 
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Bill Hagan said:
Cannot imagine that it would cost that much to just send those to you from here. You could buy and have shipped to me; I'd then send to you. OTOH, if that gets too bureaucratic, I could buy and send to you for reimbursement of shipping.

I've shipped to Oz before and big stuff made me feel I'd been raped. If interested, let me know; I'll ask at P.O. for an estimate. It was a small little package.

Bill
Click to expand...
Yes, US post has become quite ridiculous in their pricing. I used to buy quite often from the US, but now days I can usually get stuff cheaper out of the UK - if it's available there. Not only do we (Ozzies) hang right down here near the arsehole of the world, but I live in the southern-most town in West Oz. The nearest major city to me is Perth, 260 miles away. The next closest comparable city is Adelaide - 1,650 miles away.
 
I don't remember the first time i encountered one of *Those* Connectors - but it was all Greek to me - a friend of my that is a repair guy lent some Disks with a slot in them to slide them on the hose and have a bead around the center to push that retainer back ...
release-tool.webp
It's Magic how those thing attached until you've seen and learned to release them...
 
Harbor Freight Tools has several sets ranging in quality and price.

734D4704-4143-4172-86ED-DC543194F612.webp




BBB922B4-F098-487A-839F-2DEEEF2AF939.webp
 
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Its easy to blame the folks in Mandello for the quick disconnect design, but really, they're just simply using commodity parts. I fumbled a bit the first time, but once you get it, you get it.

Other than the colors being different, this is essentially what is on the V7III that I dealt with.
In this diagram, the blue button labeled "Locking Spring" - there is one on each side. Squeeze both buttons, and slide off the connector. Had I seen this diagram and explanation beforehand, I probably wouldn't have fumbled around with it so much the first time.

Fuellinequickconnector_6b8d23bc-c157-4d2c-8950-6e3cfb9c74a4.webp

One of the points of confusion I had the first time was that I had read where people described the fitting to be similar to that of an air compressor quick connect, where you pull back to release. Clearly, this is not that at all. So part of my fumbling around was trying to pull back on something that is not pull-backable. In fact, the very first post in this thread says that it's "like an air chuck". I'm not sure if some of them are, but the ones on the V7III definitely are not.

__Jason
 
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Jason, The early ones are like an air chuck. The new ones are very different and appear easier. Thanks for the post.
 
john zibell said:
Jason, The early ones are like an air chuck. The new ones are very different and appear easier. Thanks for the post.
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying! I figured something may have changed along the way. Only points of reference I had were from working on my wife's V7III, and my V11 Sport - which has none of the above :)

__Jason
 
john zibell said:
A forum member suggested I make this a sticky thread. This applies to bikes with internal fuel pumps.

I've found the easiest way to disconnect the fuel line is to disconnect the electrical connector to the fuel pump then do a start cycle. That relieves the fuel pressure and the connector is then easy to remove. The design is similar to an air chuck, so pushing on the line while pulling the collar works.
Click to expand...


FYI, there are devices for making easy and safe work for dealing with quick disconnects. These can be found at many automotive stores or online. The device is placed around the fuel line next to the disconnect. It is then pushed against/toward the quick disconnect. The 'working end' of the device uniformly presses against the teeth inside the disconnect and releases the male section of the fuel line. Attached are photos of two types of devices. As you can see from the various sizes, the devices are available for different diameter fuel lines and connector types. Hope this help.


IMG_7996.webp IMG_7998.webp
 
DeadEye said:
You stole Scott’s pictures !!! ( post above :D)
Click to expand...

Sorry....had no idea anyone else had posted similar info. I've had those photos in my PC for over a year. When I saw the thread about Quick Disconnects when I opened up Guzzi Tech earlier this a.m. I just threw out the info without checking...nothing malicious intended.
 
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