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Safety Alert for 8V Motors. Possible Alternator Wiring Short

On mine the alternator terminal was clean and tight, no problem at that end. But those spade connectors and the fuses were I think the cause of my problem.
 
No, the Stelvio is different, on the Norge there is only one wire at the alternator terminal. The spade connector is very close to the fuse, it can be seen on the Norge wiring diagram. But the fuse uses spade connectors too of course. Once they get a bit old they all add resistance.
 
Ahh. I see your issue now. Agree. Spade connectors are not a good thing on a high draw wire like that. Great spot for corrosion. Now I understand why you want to change it. Of course it is not like the ring terminal was any better.
 
Still have a problem, 14.25v at the battery, dash says 13.3v. And checking the resistance from the 12v outlet to battery positive, I get 0.9 ohm. That is via the 30A fuse and one spade connector, and maybe 300mm of wire.
 
Sounds like the volt meter function of the dash is just running with an error. A voltmeter is a high resistance input, and therefore there would not be much of a voltage drop between it and the battery.
 
If it were just a voltmeter on the end of the wire, I would agree, but the bit of wire feeding that volt meter has a 30A fuse in it, so I would imagine there is more to it. That same fuse supplies the ignition switch, so also the ignition and injection systems. On the three way spade connector, there is evidence of heat in that wire too, close to the spades.
Or to put it another way, the voltmeter can only measure the voltage on the end of the wire to which it is attached.
 
What does your multimeter say at the far end (away from the battery) of the 30A fuse and 300mm of wire? In other words can you get your mulitmeter across the same point as the dash voltmeter in the circuit?
 
That's all in the dash. The only place is by the 3 way connector. But I now intend to replace that anyway. It had been getting hot, the plastic insulation was crumbling due to heat and there is also some evidence of scorch marks on the wire insulation.
 
I also had a no charge situation resulting in a tow as the battery ran down and I didn't catch it with the voltage reading on dash.

The battery is a newish Antigravity and has been recharged and is holding 13.1 volts on my workbench all week.

The 30 Amp fuse is good and the alternator belt ribs are good and it is tight and looks new.

I think the next thing to check will be removing the tank and looking at the ring terminal of the alternator.

Is there anything else I ought to be looking at?

Thanks folks.

Joe
 
As long as you are looking at the right 30 amp fuse (one behind the triangular panel below the seat on the right side, and not the one under the seat) then yes I would look at those wires to the alternator.

That being said, do your headlights work when the bike is running (and not charging). If not, may just be a flakey lighting relay. That would kill the charge also as the power for the exciter comes from there.

Also, 13.1 seems low for a lithium. They typically run about 13.5 at steady state. If it starts the bike then no worries for now, but I would keep an eye on it. May just need some more charging from a lithium battery charger.

Take a look here. There is a picture of where the relay and trouble shooting the logic is in case you are not familiar.

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/new-stelvio-arrived.16690/page-2#post-125633
 
Yes I was looking at the fuse behind that right side panel. The 13.1 was after charging with an Opimate Lithium charger from 9.1V when I took it out of the bike. I'll plug it back in and see if it does anything more.

I haven't put the battery back in the bike to start it after I was towed home but I'll do that too and check the headlignts lights and then the lighting relay if they aren't on while running.

Thanks for the links and for starting this thread canuck. It's very helpful to the electrically handicapped like myself!
 
Ok, that 9.1V is a bit troubling. One of the drawbacks of lithium is if you fully deplete them it is tough to get them back. I am not 100% familiar with them as I still prefer old school but there may be a function on your charger to help that situation out. Todd @GT-X will know more about that.
 
Lithium batteries normally have some hardware within them which prevents recharge if the cell voltage drops below a set voltage. You can get round this by recharging with a non specific lithium charger direct to the cells. But that same hardware normally shuts the battery down completely once that set threshold has been reached.
 
I charged again and it is holding 13.5 now so that is good. Hope to have the tank off this weekend to investigate further.
 
Hello guys
I'm following this thread with interest because I'm afraid something about recharging my Stelvio battery will not work.
On the display I read 13.3 V hot and then goes down to 12.7V, on the battery I read 13.8 V and according to me it is right.
I disconnected the alternator from the bike, checked the connections, and I feel good.
I read in other forums that many read about 14.2 V more or less.
The alternator I did was test by a technician and it works fine.
Do you have any idea?
My is a MY08 (MY09 for USA)
 
What is the voltage at the battery at 4000 RPM. The dash indicator is not accurate at idle due to other things on the same wire drawing power but is still a good indicator to a problem. The accuracy goes up with increased RPMs.

A reading of 13.8 at the battery idling is not abnormal. The 14.3 or so reading is at cruising conditions. Also depends if the battery is fully charged when running.

Just measure the battery voltage at 3500-4000 RPM. 14 to 14.5 is normal depending on what other electrics you have running and if the battery is drawing power for charging.
 
The voltage at 4000 rpm it's 13,8 less or more, measured with a multimeter.
I think some connection are....not good, maybe in the next days I will remove the thank......
 
That does seem a little low. Worthwhile checking over the connections at the alternator as per the thread just to be safe. Remember that the wires in the thread were based on a 2012+. Your wiring will be a little different but the same principles apply.

You can also test the resistance in the wires from the power terminal post on the alternator to the battery +ve terminal. It will tell you if there is something not right with the wiring. Should be basically 0 ohms. Anything more than 0.3 or so may indicate a problem with the wiring somewhere. Good luck and report back your findings.
 
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