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Safety Alert for 8V Motors. Possible Alternator Wiring Short

My 2013 Stelvio has similar/ occasional symptoms, I will be pulling the tank in the near future to check connections.
Thanks for a well written and informative diagnostic report.
Bob
 
canuck1969 said:
This is definetly a maintenance item now and something that needs to be checked. I am now seeing 14.3 at the dash on startup (14.5) at the battery after a few rides to charge up the battery. That was just from tightening the terminal at the alternator. I have not seen that number for years. Normal has been 13.8 at the dash.
Click to expand...

Can this be inspected w/o removing the tank? And can it be reached to smear some protective grease onto the connection of the ring terminal, crimp, and any exposed copper wire twist?

I'd like to do this while the bike is still new to prevent corrosion on this connection for the lifetime of the bike. Have a jar of NO-OX-ID high temperature electrical contact sealer which is made specifically for this sort of thing.
 
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You can see the boot that covers the terminal nut if you remove the right side fairing panel. You may be able to pull the boot off the nut with some long needle nose pliers but you will risk damaging the boot. If you try this then make sure you disconnect the ground from the battery. If you touch that nut or wire and the chassis, you will get a light show.

Only take about 5 minutes to remove the tank. I have done it even with a full tank. It is heavy, but it can be done. That is the best approach.

Also, be careful with that conductive grease especially with this connection. It is warm under there and if that grease runs it will hit ground somewhere. Keep in mind the entire alternator housing is ground. You are better off with di-electric grease or good old vaseline if you want to prevent moisture on the terminal.

I still don't believe corrosion is the issue here. It is more related to a loose connection either at the terminal nut or a bad crimp on the terminal itself leading to increased resistance, voltage drop and heat. My 2012 showed no signs of corrosion but the nut itself was somewhat loose. I only lost about 0.2 or 0.3volts at idle so the heat from the added resistance was still manageable by the wires.
 
A tip regarding the tank. The "quick release" fuel connector is normally the main problem. But if you have one of those folding work benches to hand, put it alongside the bike then lift the tank off, swing it to the side and rest it on the bench. There is usually enough slack in the fuel pipe to allow this. You might have to disconnect the electrical connector but that's easy.
 
Brian UK said:
A tip regarding the tank. The "quick release" fuel connector is normally the main problem. But if you have one of those folding work benches to hand, put it alongside the bike then lift the tank off, swing it to the side and rest it on the bench. There is usually enough slack in the fuel pipe to allow this. You might have to disconnect the electrical connector but that's easy.
Click to expand...

Not on a 2016. You won’t have enough slack and very easy to kink the hose. The connectors are on the top of the tank on the large tank models. The connector is not difficult to remove if you know how to do it.

Push down on the connector and the black ring at the same time. Then while u are still pushing down on the black ring pull up on the connector. Should just pop off. The ring stays with the tank. If it is difficult you are doing something wrong and risk breaking it.

There is a YouTube video on how to do it. Use a rag so and residual fuel does not spray. Will only be any pressure that is in the line. You can disconnect the wires first from the tank and try starting the bike. This will relieve any pressure.

 
canuck1969 said:
Will only be any pressure that is in the line. You can disconnect the wires first from the tank and try starting the bike. This will relieve any pressure.
Click to expand...

That hasn't worked for me. I leave the wires connected, start the motor, and then disconnect the wires. The motor soon splutters to a stop and the pressure is relieved.
 
kiwi dave said:
That hasn't worked for me. I leave the wires connected, start the motor, and then disconnect the wires. The motor soon splutters to a stop and the pressure is relieved.
Click to expand...

Works for me. Just need to turn the engine over for a couple of seconds without it starting. That being said your method will work but I am not a fan of disconnecting something while it is working (ie the fuel pump). That is how shorts can happen.
 
canuck1969 said:
You can see the boot that covers the terminal nut if you remove the right side fairing panel. You may be able to pull the boot off the nut with some long needle nose pliers but you will risk damaging the boot. If you try this then make sure you disconnect the ground from the battery. If you touch that nut or wire and the chassis, you will get a light show.

Only take about 5 minutes to remove the tank. I have done it even with a full tank. It is heavy, but it can be done. That is the best approach.

Also, be careful with that conductive grease especially with this connection. It is warm under there and if that grease runs it will hit ground somewhere. Keep in mind the entire alternator housing is ground. You are better off with di-electric grease or good old vaseline if you want to prevent moisture on the terminal.

I still don't believe corrosion is the issue here. It is more related to a loose connection either at the terminal nut or a bad crimp on the terminal itself leading to increased resistance, voltage drop and heat. My 2012 showed no signs of corrosion but the nut itself was somewhat loose. I only lost about 0.2 or 0.3volts at idle so the heat from the added resistance was still manageable by the wires.
Click to expand...

Took it out for a while today, first run with the new Motobatt installed. Dash is showing 14.2v at idle and 14.3 at cruise ~ 4000rpm. Looks like good steady voltage they don't fluctuate. Inclined to pass on tank removal and inspection for now. Depends on how long cold and boring this winter is I suppose.
 
canuck1969 said:
...There is a YouTube video on how to do it. Use a rag so and residual fuel does not spray. Will only be any pressure that is in the line. You can disconnect the wires first from the tank and try starting the bike. This will relieve any pressure.

Click to expand...


That's my video! Yep, my voice, hands and 2012 Stelvio. The part most people miss is FIRST, press the connector in, then SECOND, press the locking collet, surrounding the connector, further in, then the connector can be easily removed with only a little burp of gas. It's really easy once you do it once or twice and understand how it works. If you have to force in in any way, your doing it wrong. Fingertip pressure only.

Good Luck!
 
I finally got into mine. I am the one who had no charging or lights when I got my bike and found the lighting relay had no supply, figuring it was a fault in the harness. So I just ran a hot wire to it. No smoke or flame ensued and went on to put 17K miles last year.

So anyway I found no corrosion or looseness. The red shrink tube was intact. I cut it off anyway to take a look. It doesn't look perfect,, but close. I suppose I could do a do over but I don't have a crimp tool.

One other oddity is I found that sometimes when I hit the horn the engine seemed to cut, or stumble. After the third time I never hit the horn button again. As long as all is exposed now any suggestions of anything else to look for

?terminal 1.webp

Later

One thing I will do is make my jumper from this post to eliminate that long wire from the battery. I think I will disconnect the horn somehow too.

There is a gremlin in here somewhere.
 
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