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Specification red LED in Norge/Breva Taillight

I am having to do my rear light again as 3 or 5 have failed or gone dim - when I get around to it, I do have a psare unit so that I can keep on riding.

another site
mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Broadcom-Avago/HSMJ-A401-T40M1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuGN2ig0xo6GzMGRdxmYSaU
 
Thanks so much - resoldering didnt work. So lets try these (5 per order as per min quantity) Mouser would have been 3 times the cost due to shipping.
thanks again xx
I'll buy you a pint sometime (Mines a GnT..) if it works :)
 
3 or 5 failing means 2 of the sub circuits. Unlikely all LED will have failed at the same time so check each one out seperately.
 
Are you making sure that you and the board are earthed as you may be damaging the LEDs by not being earthed to the board and soldering them. Not a mains earth of course as that could be lethal, but an earthed soldering mat for example so you, the iron and the PCB are all at the same potential..
 
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Well I bought the LED s that Briand mentioned (perfect fit), and after removing the PCB, I gently removed the solder from the damaged LEDs, using solder braid and minimum heat and contact time (if you use too much heat then you will lift the tracks and ruin the circuit board) with a cheap soldering Iron, all the time on a surface that was not only clean but also antistatic (glass tabletop will do if needed of course). Made sure I wasnt wearing anything that could generate static such as nylon or man-made fibre clothing (you can do it naked of course but I refrained this time). The LED housing will melt easily, damaging some of the internal circuitry (this circuit shorts out some of the internals that arent use in the LED use here).
So then (wearing latex gloves and everything earthed to the same point (anti static wrist strap for me) I removed the LED from the packaging without touching them as that can damage them internally or contaminate the soldering surfaces. I cleaned the pads on the board and re tinned them (very lightly and quickly - less that 0.25 of a sec with the iron at 220C max. Was using fluxed solder (not plumbers solder as that is completely different) as I have flux cleaner and it makes a better joint than the lead free / Flux free stuff. Placed a drop of glue where the LED will sit and between the pads and placed the LEDs using tweezers so as not to touch them, making sure they were the same orientation as the ones removed (there is a corner cut out to show this on the LED). Let the glue set and then with a little solder on the end of the iron, gently wiped the pad and metal connection on the LED - very quickly, to make a connection. 4 connections to make per LED. Inspected with a magnifier to ensure contacts were made and then cleaned with flux cleaner. let dry, tested on bike (Yay) and then a light coating of PCB lacker to keep the joints isolated from any moisture. Taped a small dry silica bag behind the tail light reflector moulding (so that it didnt contact the PCB), Siliconed up the edge of the black backing moulding and joined that to the reflector assembly. Works OK now and hopefully will do for a while. Main things are to make sure there is no potential for static to damage the component, and minimise the heat used to solder the components on as they melt very easily. You need good eyesight to do this. Its not the same as soldering wires together or resistors into a circuit.
Is that OK - No pics as I just did it xx
katie
 
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hi Katie, great explanation, thank you.

Did the old LED’s emit any light or where they completely dead? My two LED’s still emit some light, just a lot less then the other ones.
 
yes mine emmitted a very little light. Faulty component or a short on the board due to contamination - it wouldnt take much.
 
Removed the old LED from the PCB board and tried to solder the new LED in place ending up in a complete mess. Need to find the patience to try again somewhere....................
 
yes, very quick and light touch with the iron - I glued the LEDs in pace or they will move all over the place and/or you end up pushing them around with the iron and melting them.
 
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