stripped crankcase drain

[Marvin W]

Hello,
I have an '06 Breva 1100. The drain plug did not come out smoothly on my recent oil change. The steel plug itself is fine, but the crankcase's threads will no longer permit the plug to be tightened properly. Apparently this is a problem with aluminum threads. There is a product, Time-Sert, that can tackle this problem, but here's the but, the exhaust mixer box constrains the space between it and the drain plug, not permitting the tool to be used. Anyone have any experience moving the mixer box out of the way somewhat?

 

[scott_m]

This is a common self-induced problem. People over tighten the drain plug insanely tight. The steel plug destroys the aluminum threads by tearing them out when you do this.

Unfortunately, there is only one way to repair this correctly and doing it in situ (in place on the bike) is not the correct way. You will not get the tool properly aligned and the threads will be crooked I assure you.

The lower portion of the oil sump must be removed from the motorcycle and the threads repaired.

You may just want to purchase a new lower oil sump (and a new gasket). GU05003530. $250 is the average price I believe. Todd (GTM) can obtain these parts for you in the STORE. Send an email to info@GuzziTech.com and he can probably get you a really good price.

By the time you remove the part, buy the tools, get the TimeSert, and do all the work, you could just swap out a new piece and be done in 1 hour. If it were mine, that would be my choice.

GU05003530

 

[john zibell]

The alternative is to drop the pan, take it and the drain plug to a machine shop that can make the repair. They can get it aligned correctly. End cost may be less, but will take more time. And you will still need a new gasket but I recommend you get two for the following - While at it, drop the oil filter and remove the upper section and replace that gasket as well as there have been reports of it failing over time. You need to drop the filter as there are screws up there that must be removed.

 

[Moto-Uno]

And nobody will agree with this , BUT , if time is of the essence , you could take the drain bolt to
an auto supply store and see if they have any that are a slight oversize , made specifically for this
purpose . I had luck with these on H-D bikes a few years ago , and yes YMMV ! Peter

 

[tobinh]

Hello,
... Apparently this is a problem with aluminum threads. ...

 

[john zibell]

It is a problem caused by ham fisted people. The drain plug is not the bolt that holds the bike together!!

 

[Marvin W]

I was conscious of overtightening and I don't think I did. My last oil change was 8/20/18, 1700 miles ago.

 

[scott_m]

And nobody will agree with this , BUT , if time is of the essence , you could take the drain bolt to
an auto supply store and see if they have any that are a slight oversize , made specifically for this
purpose . I had luck with these on H-D bikes a few years ago , and yes YMMV ! Peter

Not true Peter!

I will...


He could use a "piggyback" drain plug, which will crudely cut new threads into the pan, (available at auto parts stores), and I have made emergency repairs with this setup before that people have left in place for years without problems, but it's not the best setup.

If you do choose this route, be sure to slather grease all over the thread cutting end, to keep the metal chaff from going into the pan. You will of course have to reverse it back out to clean out the metal fragments that it cuts.

Be aware that these are sized to match the original size hole and the auto parts store may or may not have the size you need and it may have to be ordered.

I also use grease covered q-tips to fish out any metal chips as well.

IF YOU GO THIS ROUTE, BE SURE TO KEEP THE SELF-TAPPING PLUG STRAIGHT AND LEVEL TO THE OIL PAN. THE RUBBER GASKET HELPS TO TAKE UP OFFSET, BUT IF YOU MUCK IT UP BADLY, IT WILL NOT LAY FLUSH ENOUGH TO SEAL.

Tightness of a stock oil drain plug is snug plus 1-2 mm additional turn. NO MORE. It does not need a torque value nor does it need to be insanely tight. Snug plus 1-2 mm additional rotation MAX.

The ONLY way to bust aluminum threads in a drain plug is by over tightening.





This is another style I used (AND PREFER DUE TO THE MAGNETIC PICKUP) on a Harley-Davidson that the customer overtightened the drain plug.

Customer requested this specific type of repair. It is still holding oil perfectly.

 

[Raven]

I only stripped one oil drain plug. I was 18 and it was on my 1969 Thunderbird 429 cu. in. engine. I was so mad at myself that I kicked the car and... broke my big toe. I never did it again.

 

[tobinh]

I was conscious of overtightening and I don't think I did. My last oil change was 8/20/18, 1700 miles ago.

...the crankcase's threads will no longer permit the plug to be tightened properly...

Unfortunately the metal gets the last word

I won't belabour further, rather gently encourage you to reconsider your technique (and mindset...) if you are going to continue to approach your machine with wrench in hand.

 

[scott_m]

...Anyone have any experience moving the mixer box out of the way somewhat?

I assume you mean the exhaust system including the catalytic converter?

Yes, you need to remove the exhaust.

1. Remove the exhaust pipe (20) from the catalytic converter (13) by loosening clamp (19) and removing bolt assembly (21 - 25).

2. Disconnect the Λ (lambda) plug. (16)

3. Remove the catalytic converter (13) from the header pipes (1) and (2) by loosening clamps (11) and (12) and removing hanging screws (26).

You will need to spray some lubricant between the space where the pieces connect together [ (1) into (13) and [ (20 into (13) ] to get them to come apart easily. Wipe the excess off before reassembly to avoid the burning smell of the lubricant.

 

[Marvin W]

This is a common self-induced problem. People over tighten the drain plug insanely tight. The steel plug destroys the aluminum threads by tearing them out when you do this.

Unfortunately, there is only one way to repair this correctly and doing it in situ (in place on the bike) is not the correct way. You will not get the tool properly aligned and the threads will be crooked I assure you.

The lower portion of the oil sump must be removed from the motorcycle and the threads repaired.

You may just want to purchase a new lower oil sump (and a new gasket). GU05003530. $250 is the average price I believe. Todd (GTM) can obtain these parts for you in the STORE. Send an email to info@GuzziTech.com and he can probably get you a really good price.

By the time you remove the part, buy the tools, get the TimeSert, and do all the work, you could just swap out a new piece and be done in 1 hour. If it were mine, that would be my choice.

GU05003530
View attachment 26226

You mentioned Todd (GTM), please, what's his contact info

 

[scott_m]

You mentioned Todd (GTM), please, what's his contact info

See that red hyperlink. That's his email. info@GuzziTech.com

You are welcome by the way for all of the information and help...

 

[john zibell]

I only stripped one oil drain plug. I was 18 and it was on my 1969 Thunderbird 429 cu. in. engine. I was so mad at my self that I kicked the car and... broke my big toe. I never did it again.

Over tighten or kick the car?

 

[Marvin W]

Unfortunately the metal gets the last word

I won't belabour further, rather gently encourage you to reconsider your technique (and mindset...) if you are going to continue to approach your machine with wrench in hand.

See that red hyperlink. That's his email. info@GuzziTech.com

You are welcome by the way for all of the information and help...

Thank you very much, I truly appreciate your help. Best regards,

 

[Raven]

Over tighten or kick the car?

Both. Two lessons learned. I didn't even dent the car, it was built like a tank.

 

[Roblatt]

In an emergency, I once used plumbers tape to hold a sump plug in place just to keep it snug. I used it for several years with no leak - although I wouldn't recommend it (if it fails your back wheel hits the oil first). This is how I learned you don't need to over tighten.

 

[Marvin W]

The alternative is to drop the pan, take it and the drain plug to a machine shop that can make the repair. They can get it aligned correctly. End cost may be less, but will take more time. And you will still need a new gasket but I recommend you get two for the following - While at it, drop the oil filter and remove the upper section and replace that gasket as well as there have been reports of it failing over time. You need to drop the filter as there are screws up there that must be removed.

I appreciate your help and advise, I am confused when you say get two new gaskets for the "following".

 

[scott_m]

The oil pan is actually two parts (25 & 27) with 2 gaskets. Look at the photos.

Parts 24 & 26 are the 2 gaskets.

 

[Marvin W]

The oil pan is actually two parts (25 & 27) with 2 gaskets. Look at the photos.

Parts 24 & 26 are the 2 gaskets.

View attachment 26237

View attachment 26236

Thanks for getting back to me on this. Does the oil filter #3 have on the attached have a replaceable gasket as well? Appreciate your help and advice.
Regards,