An oil filter has a seal. It should be lubed with either grease or oil when you install a new one. Also the filter should be torqued to 15Nm. If you drop your existing filter, replace with a new one as oil filter typically do not re-seal well.
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stripped crankcase drain
- Thread starterMarvin W
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No.
That is the primary oil pickup inside the oil pan, and not really an “oil filter” in the classic sense.
The motorcycle utilizes a replaceable spin on oil filter.
This is a 05152230
Art
Just got it firing!
I use a very small ratchet about 4.5" long so I can reduced the risk of over tightening bolts (not saying you did). Steel and aluminum get along like Hutus and Tutsis. Even OCD seasoned wrenches get boned by steel fasteners in aluminum housings. Scottmastroinque mentioned a piggyback drain plug repair. Those generally work very well, but I think replacing the pan is the best option. Anything else will just feel temporary.
Moto-Uno
High Miler
Well I beg to disagree , simply because pretty much every drain plug repair I've done (when time was not
of the essence) has been a heli-coil insert . My favourite example is my Le Mans 2 bought new over 37 years
ago . It didn't take me more than 2 years to have every drain screw start to or completely fail . Yes I am a looney
about very frequent lube changes ! But by that time I'd been a certified M/C mechanic working on numerous
brands of bikes (for over a decade) and pretty well never had to heli-coil any of them . I was pretty convinced
by then that some alloy castings are better (different) than Guzzi's at the time . Long story short , that same bike
now has over 1/4 million kilometers on it and every drain is leak free and not so fussy about a little extra torque .
That's my rant
. Peter
of the essence) has been a heli-coil insert . My favourite example is my Le Mans 2 bought new over 37 years
ago . It didn't take me more than 2 years to have every drain screw start to or completely fail . Yes I am a looney
about very frequent lube changes ! But by that time I'd been a certified M/C mechanic working on numerous
brands of bikes (for over a decade) and pretty well never had to heli-coil any of them . I was pretty convinced
by then that some alloy castings are better (different) than Guzzi's at the time . Long story short , that same bike
now has over 1/4 million kilometers on it and every drain is leak free and not so fussy about a little extra torque .
That's my rant
. Peter
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Well I beg to disagree…That's my rant
I’m confused.
If only I understood what it was you were disagreeing with..
Moto-Uno
High Miler
Art's remark "that replacing the pan is the best option" is the source of my disagreement . You're just replacing
the part that I believe is the source of the problem with another same part . Maybe I've been wrenching too long ?
Variety is the spice of life they say . Peter
the part that I believe is the source of the problem with another same part . Maybe I've been wrenching too long ?
Variety is the spice of life they say
. Peter
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Oh. I didn’t understand.
I originally offered the part number and suggested that simply because at a retail of $250, depending upon repair costs, it may be the most economically sound course of action.
Truthfully Peter, there is nothing inherently wrong with aluminum oil pans or aluminum drain plug threads.
Surely, you know that you really have to put the spurs to the bolt, in order to snap the threads.
It may not have been the OP who did the real damage, but a previous owner or prior “mechanic”, but it was absolutely HUMAN ERROR that destroyed those threads by overtightening a steel drain plug into aluminum threads.
I’ve seen the exact same thing, countless times as I’m sure you have.
I’ve also seen the fine bolts that hold the upper sump to the engine block, with stripped aluminum threads in the main engine block, from the exact same overtightening.
It’s human nature, overtightening steel bolts into aluminum threads, as much as filling every damn fluid on the motorcycle, to the absolute maximum mark as well.
I originally offered the part number and suggested that simply because at a retail of $250, depending upon repair costs, it may be the most economically sound course of action.
Truthfully Peter, there is nothing inherently wrong with aluminum oil pans or aluminum drain plug threads.
Surely, you know that you really have to put the spurs to the bolt, in order to snap the threads.
It may not have been the OP who did the real damage, but a previous owner or prior “mechanic”, but it was absolutely HUMAN ERROR that destroyed those threads by overtightening a steel drain plug into aluminum threads.
I’ve seen the exact same thing, countless times as I’m sure you have.
I’ve also seen the fine bolts that hold the upper sump to the engine block, with stripped aluminum threads in the main engine block, from the exact same overtightening.
It’s human nature, overtightening steel bolts into aluminum threads, as much as filling every damn fluid on the motorcycle, to the absolute maximum mark as well.
certainly nothing wrong with heli-coils, it's probably what I would do... but only because I have all the necessary tools to do it properly. so for me it would be the cheapest, fastest route.
but, if you're not comfy with some basic machining and don't already have the tools/supplies... replacing the oil pan is probably best. I'm guessing that is the case for the OP, as otherwise he would have just fixed it and carried on with his day, possibly with a post titled something like "jeez guys, do I feel silly..."
but, if you're not comfy with some basic machining and don't already have the tools/supplies... replacing the oil pan is probably best. I'm guessing that is the case for the OP, as otherwise he would have just fixed it and carried on with his day, possibly with a post titled something like "jeez guys, do I feel silly..."
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Precisely...
$ for the time to remove the oil pan as he cannot fix it in situ.
Helicoil kit or Time Sert ~ $40 - $100 if he does it himself
Machine shop repair ~ $50 - $125
That was why I said to check the price of a new pan with Todd. All of us with the know how and proper tools can fix this easily, but the OP may not be able to. He hasn't responded anyway...
If the OP does not have a vice to hold the pan, and effectively setup so that the new hole is drilled perfectly straight and his new threads are tapped straight, then he will make a mess of this repair. Crooked drain plugs don't seal.
The oil filter #3 you are referring to is a very coarse wire mesh filter, or strainer as I would call it, #15 is its associated seal, theres no need to remove #3 so I would leave it undisturbed.
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Umm, there’s a picture of it I sent him on post #22 right up there ^^^.
Hi Scottmastrocinque, I didn't click to the 2nd page so missed your post
The 1 time I was in this position, I went to the auto parts shop to determine what various sized sump plugs were in stock. I bought the next size up from the original, the appropriate tap and went work. Plenty of grease on the tap to trap as much swarf as possible is also an excellent idea. Tiny little bits of aluminium left in the sump will have no noticeable ill effect. If your oil filter works that's where they'll end up.
Moto-Uno
High Miler
Unfortunately , to get to the filter they usually have to go through the pump . But frequently they just
lie around in the sump and come out with the next oil change . Peter
lie around in the sump and come out with the next oil change . Peter
Hello All, I want to express my thanks for the invaluable advice I have received from you all. I have installed the new sump and all appears to be in good shape. I'd like to give a plug to Harper's Moto Guzzi in Kansas City for parts, whom I highly recommend. During the course of this task I discovered what tools I was lacking, specifically some long metric allen key sockets, which I now have on order. I was able to do the job, though this tool would have save time and knuckles.
Art
Just got it firing!
I have been buying tools for over 50 years and I still am grossly lacking tools. It is an addiction for which there is no cure. I need to get a new 20 ton hydraulic press in case I start doing differentials again.
Dycokac
Tuned and Synch'ed
I'm about to do this same oil pan replacement on my 08 Norge... Quick question though, should, how do and with what should I clean out the new pan? it's a little dusty as I get a film on my finger when I wipe on the inside. and I see some pitting around the seal point of the pan itself that i plan on wiping with some emery cloth.
Do I need to spray down the new pan gasket with some sort of gasket treatment... and should I lock tight the the pan bolts when I reassemble them?
Thanks in advance guys!
Do I need to spray down the new pan gasket with some sort of gasket treatment... and should I lock tight the the pan bolts when I reassemble them?
Thanks in advance guys!
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If you mean how do you clean the pan that is removed from the bike? With any degreasing solution or even Dawn liquid dish soap. Use an old cloth and wash it out real good with hot water and dry well, preferably with compressed air.
Please do not use Emory tape on any of the sealing surfaces. They are perfectly straight. A little pitting will affect nothing as the seal will squish into the space, but if you destroy the straight edge, then you can get leaking.
The gasket is installed perfectly dry. You can use Blue Hylomar to increase the sealing capability of the gasket but I wouldn't use anything else.
Do not put anything on the bolt threads. They should be clean and dry, and they are tightened no more that seating them plus 2-3mm additional turning. It doesn't take much force at all. DO NOT OVER-TORQUE THESE fine thread steel bolts as they will tear the aluminum threads right from the case!
Please do not use Emory tape on any of the sealing surfaces. They are perfectly straight. A little pitting will affect nothing as the seal will squish into the space, but if you destroy the straight edge, then you can get leaking.
The gasket is installed perfectly dry. You can use Blue Hylomar to increase the sealing capability of the gasket but I wouldn't use anything else.
Do not put anything on the bolt threads. They should be clean and dry, and they are tightened no more that seating them plus 2-3mm additional turning. It doesn't take much force at all. DO NOT OVER-TORQUE THESE fine thread steel bolts as they will tear the aluminum threads right from the case!