The Guzzi 850 T5 Cafe Racer Project

[judgefargo]

And the last addition has been an original Gixxer front wheel. I will hold back for now to get the wheels laced, and will of course get rid of the red line vynil, and then plastidip the rear wheel in black to match the front. Lets see if I can ride the bike this summer!

Also have been chopping up the Original V7 mono seat to make it match the bike better, for it is deffinitely to long. Carving it down slowly, so you wont notice any difference in the photos. Let me know what you think!

Am playing around with the foot pegs to find a good position, angle is still wrong for the gear shifter, and am trying to find a better place to put the rear brake mechanism, any ideas???

Cheers guys, hope you enjoy the photos, at least now it looks like a bike and I can sit on it and move it around!! hehe

 

[Calijackalbob]

Looking on with great anticipation.
HURRY UP !
only Joking.
Looks great so far, but please be sensitive to the purists ! The donor bike was not UGLY ! Just not your idea of beautiful.
Some would lament a classic original guzzi being chopped. I kind of agree, if it is a rare guzzi, but I love what you're doing. Building a modern classic. Keep up the good work!

 

[judgefargo]

Thanks Calijackalbob, you are right, I should not call it an UGLY bike, I'm sure when it came out it was a revolutionary bike and deserves more than such an adjective. However I did prefer chopping a T5 than a Lemans for I think it to be more of a Classic so to speak. Also the T5 was much cheaper!

I will try keeping a bit of a schedule and be brave with the electrical system. Lets see how that turns out.
Thanks to all for the great support.

Ride safe!

Looking on with great anticipation.
HURRY UP !
only Joking.
Looks great so far, but please be sensitive to the purists ! The donor bike was not UGLY ! Just not your idea of beautiful.
Some would lament a classic original guzzi being chopped. I kind of agree, if it is a rare guzzi, but I love what you're doing. Building a modern classic. Keep up the good work!

 

[judgefargo]

Been fiddling with Photoshop this weekend, try and get the seat to look good. Had the hacksaw out and chopped it a little but have reached the point can't chop any more without measuring properly etc etc.

Also been contemplating Rim colours, for I think it changes the overall look of the bike massively.
In my opinion all black looks a little to Bobber.
I think my top choice is the Original colour and maybe the hub in black, what do you guys thing?

Is the seat in the correct position, not to long, not to short? Have to chop the frame soon and am thinking of putting a loop on the back with integrated LED lights, I'll leave an example also see what you think.

So here are some pics see what you guys think, thanks for your help and experience!

 

[judgefargo]

Seat LED Loop

 

[judgefargo]

Guys, wouldn't want to seem silly here, but have been looking for this question and can't seem to find the answer anywhere.

Is the battery tray really necessary? Does it serve as a frame reinforcement or something like that?
I see a lot of people putting it back on/upgrading even though the battery won't go on top (like me).

Here is the part I will be buying if it is necessary to have on the bike, thanks for your help, ride safe!

 

[Calijackalbob]

Been fiddling with Photoshop this weekend,
Also been contemplating Rim colours, for I think it changes the overall look of the bike massively.
In my opinion all black looks a little to Bobber.
I think my top choice is the Original colour and maybe the hub in black, what do you guys thing?

Is the seat in the correct position, not to long, not to short? Have to chop the frame soon and am thinking of putting a loop on the back with integrated LED lights, I'll leave an example also see what you think.

So here are some pics see what you guys think, thanks for your help and experience!

View attachment 11859

View attachment 11860

View attachment 11861

View attachment 11862

View attachment 11863

Seat looks good to me. Have you thought of putting wire wheels with Chrome or polished alloy rims on it? That would really make it look classic in my opinion.

If you are keeping the wheels in the photos, I think black would make the mismatch less obvious. You might also consider painting the spokes and leaving the outer rim bare polished alluminium like I did on this old CB750. (I was asked by a few people if I had bought new wheels. me.)

Keep us updated. I'm enjoying seeing the transformation.
Bob.

 

[judgefargo]

Thanks Bob

You bet I have thought of it. Wanted to get some Excel Takasago laced in black with stainless spokes, but it's a nightmare to do and for now I'm just going to have to settle with what I have got... (Also an expensive mod.)

Looks pretty cool what you did mate, I must admit. Hehe

Good thing is now with the PlastiDip Vinyl paint you can do a pretty good job for very little expense. I have a friend that has done it with his car rims and they look amazing, its just like paint, and if you don't like it, it comes of with ease like a sticker so to speak. So I can go trying see what the outcome is without a lot of effort or cost.

I'm also seriously considering rewiring the bike myself... Just can't seem to find the courage to do so!!!

Take care and lets see if I can get some more work done and keep you guys posted, ride safe!

Seat looks good to me. Have you thought of putting wire wheels with Chrome or polished alloy rims on it? That would really make it look classic in my opinion.

If you are keeping the wheels in the photos, I think black would make the mismatch less obvious. You might also consider painting the spokes and leaving the outer rim bare polished alluminium like I did on this old CB750. (I was asked by a few people if I had bought new wheels. me.)

Keep us updated. I'm enjoying seeing the transformation.
Bob.

 

[Calijackalbob]

Thanks Bob
Good thing is now with the PlastiDip Vinyl paint you can do a pretty good job for very little expense. I have a friend that has done it with his car rims and they look amazing, its just like paint, and if you don't like it, it comes of with ease like a sticker so to speak. So I can go trying see what the outcome is without a lot of effort or cost.

I'm also seriously considering rewiring the bike myself... Just can't seem to find the courage to do so!!!

Plastidip. Will that withstand tyre removal tools without scratching? I polished the outer rims of my wheels so scratched paint would not be an issue.

If you're really keen, I would be looking at wheels off a california if I were you . Shouldn't be hard to find or cost too much, but you might need to change the front hub to suit your front end.

If you rewire the bike, you're a braver man than I.

Good luck!

 

[Pancake]

I would go for the rewiring yourself. I was in the same position with a very similar bike, the Spada 2. There was so much extra wiring that was discarded. It is not as complicated as all that when you think of it as separate circuits. For example there is a charging circuit, a lighting circuit, an ignition circuit etc... there are plenty of resources online. I needed up with a loom the width of my little finger and my bike has never been more reliable electrically speaking. It did take me longer than expected because I could not do it all at once, so I kept forgetting where i'd been. Make diagrams of each of the circuits planning the colours you want to use.

Re the battery plate, it is very important for rigidity. I replaced the steel plate because it was cracked, so therefore been stressed. when I removed it the holes were all oval, so it had been moving and twisting. When the new 6mm ally plate went in the handling was noticeably better.

 

[judgefargo]

Hi Bob. PlastiDip I don't think it would withstand a tire change to be honest no. But it costs like 20€ to paint a whole wheel. So just as a provisional fix to see if it's the colour I like I think will do (if you get my point).

Regarding Cali wheels, I did consider, but would want a thicker back tire. Maybe in the future I go full out and get a custom back arm to fit the larger Takasago back rim. I have seen it done, so it must be possible, here an example, the front is an Ecxel Takasago Rim:

Plastidip. Will that withstand tyre removal tools without scratching? I polished the outer rims of my wheels so scratched paint would not be an issue.

If you're really keen, I would be looking at wheels off a california if I were you . Shouldn't be hard to find or cost too much, but you might need to change the front hub to suit your front end.

If you rewire the bike, you're a braver man than I.

Good luck!

 

[judgefargo]

Hello Pancake

I think I am going to man up and go for it. The nest of cables I have on the bike is just ridiculous. I mean I have bought most of the updated electrics: blade fuse box (would love the motogadget one but $$$...), Dyna electronic ignition and coils, LED lights, and am trying to buy a Motorsport ESR450 regulator if that is the correct one. Where would you recommend buying the cables, connectors? I did buy a set of mole connectors (as the ones on the bike, but they are a little on the bulky side...
Thanks for your recommendations, maybe this weekend I strip the whole bike from electrical components then and start from scratch... Am terrified already!!!

Re. the battery plate, I have listened to your advise and gone and bought the one I posted earlier, looks pretty nice and good quality, so will let you guys know when it arrives.

Thanks ever so much for all the great support, I think at this pase I may have the bike on the road for the Summer!!!!

I would go for the rewiring yourself. I was in the same position with a very similar bike, the Spada 2. There was so much extra wiring that was discarded. It is not as complicated as all that when you think of it as separate circuits. For example there is a charging circuit, a lighting circuit, an ignition circuit etc... there are plenty of resources online. I needed up with a loom the width of my little finger and my bike has never been more reliable electrically speaking. It did take me longer than expected because I could not do it all at once, so I kept forgetting where i'd been. Make diagrams of each of the circuits planning the colours you want to use.

Re the battery plate, it is very important for rigidity. I replaced the steel plate because it was cracked, so therefore been stressed. when I removed it the holes were all oval, so it had been moving and twisting. When the new 6mm ally plate went in the handling was noticeably better.

 

[judgefargo]

Well lads, I did it! Pulled all the wires off the bike. As you can see they were well chopped and messed up, so I'm glad I did so. Thanks for your recommendations. Will be doing the ignition and regeneration systems first, bought the Electrosports Regulator and will be arriving shortly. Am going to read about the cable widths needed and where to buy. Have my Molex terminals kit so will probably be using them. Not pretty looking but quality is good.

Here some pics of the cables

 

[judgefargo]

Got my hands on a headlight bracket made by a company called Max-Inc. Quality is sublime. However fit is not the best on Gixxer forks. Will have to do some modifying unfortunately... I think headlight is a little to high, what do you guys think? Also I wanted to keep the original clocks for they have the Kms the bike has done which was a nice thing to maintain I think, but not sure if it looks right.

Sorry I'm bombarding you all with these photos and decisions, it's the way I have of taking note of things.
Ride safe and here some pics,
Jake

 

[judgefargo]

After snooping around have seen that people mainly put the pegs on the last hole of the frame (i put it on the fist). So wondered about that and in the end moved one side back and now I know why. Riding position is much better like this. Am going to leave it like that and workout how to adapt the gear shifter and brake to fit in this position. Seen people putting the gear shift rod on the front of the pedal in staid of the peg. Could be a plausible option. If anyone is in the same position I strongly recommend moving the peg to the last hole (towards the back wheel direction).

 

[judgefargo]

Hello lads.

Got a bit of a technical question for you all. Am trying to find out what is the smallest SIZE battery I can use on the bike for I would like to hide it under the seat. I presume a Lithium battery would be the best option, but what would be the minimum amperage. As you guys know I will be doing a totally new electrical system with Electronic ignition, New regulator, and Dyna coils.

Thanks for all your support. I'm guessing I would need around 360 A CCA (Cold crank amps). Would that be adequate, or less would do also? I live in a very warm country as you know and bike is only going to get used in the Summer (+30Cº average.)`

Cheers guys, hope some of you can give me a little orientation, ride safe.

 

[judgefargo]

I think this problem I have resolved thanks to a member on the board whom had posted some info regarding lithium batteries. Here is his post if anyone needs the info:

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/th...-by-deltran-battery-tender.17030/#post-128170

Member is Longrider, so my thanks go to him for the help. Also to GT-Rx® who posted some additional useful info.

Will be going for a Lithium Battery with 360CCA. Size of battery is 150x105x87mm, so I think it will fit nicely under the seat.

Hello lads.

Got a bit of a technical question for you all. Am trying to find out what is the smallest SIZE battery I can use on the bike for I would like to hide it under the seat. I presume a Lithium battery would be the best option, but what would be the minimum amperage. As you guys know I will be doing a totally new electrical system with Electronic ignition, New regulator, and Dyna coils.

Thanks for all your support. I'm guessing I would need around 360 A CCA (Cold crank amps). Would that be adequate, or less would do also? I live in a very warm country as you know and bike is only going to get used in the Summer (+30Cº average.)`

Cheers guys, hope some of you can give me a little orientation, ride safe.

 

[judgefargo]

Been doing some cardboard proxies this weekend to get everything fitted in its place. Will probably have the parts made of aluminium once I get the measurements right.

Here some pics:

 

[judgefargo]

Also been designing the wiring diagram. Got the base design from a guy called Joeri from Bikebrewers.com. Was really nice of him to give me a hand, feel free to go and take a look at his webpage, he is doing a great job, and there are some lovely bikes!.

Anyway, here is the design, If anyone sees any mistakes I would love them to help me point them out, for my knowledge on electrical systems is very limited...
Thanks to all, ride safe, Jake

PD: It is incomplete at this point, so there a few things missing. Also I have to calculate the correct fuse Amperage.

 

[jr1967]

At first glance I see two things:
You can not flash your high beam with the light switch in the off position, not sure if you see that as a problem
The brake switches should be parallel, not in series. Now your brake light will only come on when both brakes are applied.