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The Guzzi 850 T5 Cafe Racer Project

Well lads. I think I sorted out the Crankcase breather matter. I thank you all for your advice.
Here a quick shot of the result. I used the hose the bike had on it. I think it even may be the original one. It was still in good state, and even though it's green, I think it will do for now.

Once again thanks to everyone for your advice!

IMG_20190221_192010.webp
 
Next week we are going to start chopping the chasis, as there are a lot of brackets that will no longer be used. Also I have to chop the back as the bike will be a lot shorter now.

The idea was to hide the battery under the seat, but it's going to be a very tight fit.
Also, my idea was initially to put a loop with LED brake and indicator light on the back, however if I were to do this, the back wheel would almost definitely touch the loop when going over a bump or so.

I think I may go for an LED light under the seat, and then just an aluminium cover running all the way back till the engine, working as a mudguard.
Any better ideas will be appreciated! Thanks

IMG_20190220_181337.webp
 
Point of no return!

Well lads, the tonti frame was subjected to the one way chop!

Took a few photos for reference sake, we didn't finish the job so bike is still at my mates garage, Once I get her back at home I will take some additional photos.
Here they are!

IMG_20190303_090255.webp

IMG_20190303_135631.webp
 
Well lads. I think I sorted out the Crankcase breather matter. I thank you all for your advice.
Here a quick shot of the result. I used the hose the bike had on it. I think it even may be the original one. It was still in good state, and even though it's green, I think it will do for now.

Once again thanks to everyone for your advice!

View attachment 16503

Hi. Your breather will piss oil as soon as you go on a long ride. I recommend a breather from a T3/Lemans or Agostini Competition breather and plumb the oil return line down to the sump drain plug. Guzzi push a lot of oil out of the crankcase.....Good luck
 
Thanks for the recommendation

I think the furtherest the bike will go is about 30kms... Hopefully this wont happen considering the distance. And it's daily distance will be around 15kms.

If this does happen with such short distances, I will implement the system you recommend.

Once again thanks, I will be doing more work on the bike during the weekends when possible, so new content up shortly!

Hi. Your breather will piss oil as soon as you go on a long ride. I recommend a breather from a T3/Lemans or Agostini Competition breather and plumb the oil return line down to the sump drain plug. Guzzi push a lot of oil out of the crankcase.....Good luck
 
Hi lads

Been working on the aluminium parts I need made. Fount a cool company that you pretty much just have to upload the blueprint on their web and your done. Will let you know if it works out, and if so will share page with you all.

Have sent them a small piece I need for the foot pegs to connect to the gear shifter.

I have also been doing some mock-ups for the Dials. I think I'm pretty much there, have to measure all now and make sure the thickness is enough and all that... Anyway, here some trusty Photoshop proxies with similar to end result finish.

My intention is to use the original Dials, as they are in pretty good cons, and also they are the "original" ones, and have true mileage on them. Maybe in the future if I grow tired of them I swap for the Motogadget unit. As you all know, my idea is going for a Retro-modern look, not all peoples taste, but hey, in the end nothing is!

Let me know what you think, am going to paint the rear of the Dials in black, so this is what it would look like roughly.

DIALS.webp
DIALS REAR 2.webp
 
Morning all

I received in the post the piece for the pedal yesterday. To my surprise instead on 1 unit, they sent me 4!!

I asked them if I had to send them any additional money, to what they replied "of course not, on such small pieces we always do more than one unit just in case one brakes or gets lost, in your case this didn't happen so we sent them all".

I took a quick snap last night when I opened the package so not the best of photo, all content in the box is there also, company is called LaserBoost in case anyone is interested. Hope you like it.

I will try it on the bike next week, if it works well and holds the pressure I will have 2 additional ones (keeping 2), just in case anyone needs one, or the design, which I can send also.

Ride safe!

IMG-20190507-WA0009.webp
 
Sorry I haven't been posting a lot lately, sort of lost the habit...!

I have moved the bike back to my garage as all welding has pretty much been completed.
In these weeks we have managed to chop the chasis and some of the bits not needed, adjust the seat, and put some stoppers on the steering so it doesn't hit the tank.

I have started with the electrical system and will be doing that in the coming weeks.
Connected the starter motor yesterday and I see it doesn't turn the engine over, clicks and that is pretty much it. Will check see if it's just from lack of use, or if there is not enough current getting to it. I see people tap it a little to free it and that sometimes work. If not I will order a new one as it's most probably 33 years old! If you have any better ideas I'm all ears, thanks!

Here a few photos of the bike with seat on, let me know what you all think!

IMG_20190608_165214.webp IMG_20190608_164757.webp IMG_20190608_164751.webp
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Try and short across solenoid with a screw driver or whatever (so by pass all the usual electrics if that spin it then it’s just the relay or whatever giving trouble. If that just goes clunk try same screwdriver onto the ring gear through the plug on side of gearbox. If it’s turns easy enough then it’s the battery if it’s solid then .......
 
Thanks mate, I will give it a try this afternoon.

In theory the Lion battery is powerful enough to start the bike. I will charge the original one also and give it a go just to be on the safe side as well.

Let u know, once again thanks for the advice,
Jake


Try and short across solenoid with a screw driver or whatever (so by pass all the usual electrics if that spin it then it’s just the relay or whatever giving trouble. If that just goes clunk try same screwdriver onto the ring gear through the plug on side of gearbox. If it’s turns easy enough then it’s the battery if it’s solid then .......
 
Right, just had a quick go whilst I pluged in the original battery.

I shorted across and the starter spins no problem. Got some good sparks going!

I have the cable exiting the solenoid straight to the motogadget m unit Start. This has two entry holes so I spliced the cable in two as per instructions on the manual.

Is there something I'm doing wrong?

Thanks for your help guys,
Jake



Thanks mate, I will give it a try this afternoon.

In theory the Lion battery is powerful enough to start the bike. I will charge the original one also and give it a go just to be on the safe side as well.

Let u know, once again thanks for the advice,
Jake
 
Well, after running a few tests I have managed to get the starter to turn over correctly. It seems like the Motogadget M-Unit has to be connected to the starter with x2 2,5mm cables cross section, or so it says in the manual, so I have run two cables from the Starter to the M-Unit and spayed a lot of contact cleaner on, and it turned over once.

I think it's due for a replacement anyhow. I have unbolted one of the Starter screws and saw a little oil come out, so imagine this will have to be done when oil change is.

Thanks to all of you for your support, will keep on going, and posting a few shots of the electrical system if you like.

Ride safe,
Jake
 
Starter problem solved. It was a bad ground... yeah how dumb of me was that. It seams the main bolt for the M-Unit ground had come loose, hence the starter not working. For the rest of the electronics it was enough power.

Hope this helps someone out, always check your grounds!
 
Morning lads

Been trying to get the timing to work over the weekend, no luck whatsoever. It may be that the markings on the flywheel are not too precise. I am going to give it another shot during the week, If not I will probably buy a degree wheel and a piston stopper and try and work out TDC with that.

Would anyone know exactly how many degrees before the TDC the spark has to fire? degrees or number of teeth if possible...
Thanks, here some shots of the electrical system being tested out, once all is working I will clear it up!

IMG_20190615_133137.webp IMG_20190615_133143.webp IMG_20190615_133141.webp
 
Timing issue now SOLVED!

I don't know how or why, but there were two D's on my Flywheel. So the firing sequence was waaay off, hence the misfiring and flames out the carbs. Now it starts like a champ. I understand there are two movements to the TDC, it was probably on the wrong one... Sorry, not a mechanic so for others this may seem easy, hope it helps out any of the ones that are not mechanically trained.

I will be clearing the wires up and checking all fits in place with the tank on. Even be bold enough to say that I'll soon try it outside our house!!!

Thanks to all for your help, ride safe,
Jake
 
Thanks mate! And thank you all for the support!

On Friday I managed to get her out on the street and from first to second to do a little ride test! She had not been out on the road for at least 2 years!!

The Dyna and all new components have got the bike starting perfectly. First press, first start. I would strongly recommend upgrading to you all.

I hope you all have a good weekend. I will continue to document the advances on the bike for you all.

Ride safe,
Jake

Looks amazing so far. Huge amount of work but I'm sure that it is going to be worth it in the end.
 
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