• NOTICE: Starting March 24, we've shifted to a mandatory user Account upgrade (donation) to post here. Once you've created an account, see the SITE SUPPORT section at the bottom on how to upgrade. This is to help try and cover site costs, and reduce redundant and argumentative posts. Search and read before staring a new thread, most topics are well covered here. We still require ONE post in the Intro section (bottom of the main Forum section list) to introduce yourself: NO QUESTIONS THERE - THEY WILL BE DELETED. Small $ donations via our link above will not be considered. Also to NOTE, the owner here lost his home in the LA Wildfire storm in January; See the USA section for more details. Your compassion, consideration and understanding on use of this site is expected. It's NOT a free social media platform - decades of time and money went into this site. We have a zero tolerance policy on attacks and anything NOT related to Guzzi motorbikes.

V7-850 Evap and Tip Info

banjofrog said:
For the plug, what works best? I can run to a hardware store and get something.
And for heating, what’s the best way to go about that?
Click to expand...
An M8 allen bolt is best.
Hair-dryer and a small eyeglass screwdriver. Don’t pull by the hoses to separate. All well covered on this Forum many times.
 
Thanks for all the great info concerning this subject. So, you plug the line above the Bosch-valve and remove the internals of the tank vent line plastic valve, all clearly understood. But what about the connections of these two lines to the canister? Do they stay connected to the canister or do you leave them open?
 
H674 said:
Thanks for all the great info concerning this subject. So, you plug the line above the Bosch-valve and remove the internals of the tank vent line plastic valve, all clearly understood. But what about the connections of these two lines to the canister? Do they stay connected to the canister or do you leave them open?
Click to expand...
I left the connections on my bike intake to the canister and works well. Some have commented about fuel fumes in garage if the cannister is removed, that dos'nt suit me having a garage that's attached / connected to the house and more importantly shared with the wife's car, don't need the grief of being told my bikes smelling out the garage / house!
 
Thanks Roger, To leave the 2 hoses connected to the canister was also my understanding on how the bypass should be done. But looking at the evap-system schematic under the seat of my V7 ( there is also a picture on P3 of this thread) still has me somewhat puzzled about how this whole 'contraption' works. In principle, if fumes develop in the tank they are routed to the canister through what is called the 'ventilation valve'. Then, supposedly based on a command from the ECU, the 'purge valve' opens, thereby connecting the cannister to the manifold vacuum and the fumes are pulled into the combustion process. So far, so good. But what is the purpose of the ventilation valve between tank and cannister and what determines whether it is closed or open? And what is the deal with the opening on the right side of the cannister labeled 'Air Atmosphere' in the above mentioned schematic? Wouldn't this opening to ambient air allow fumes to escape no matter what and render the whole system useless?
 
GTM® said:
;)
Did you plug the intake leak? I stole your photo for the first post here. Nice shot, thanks.
Click to expand...
If you mean the intake hose (pictured) to the top of the Bosch purge valve.. no, not yet; going to get an M8 today. Ps I'm leaving the canister and hoses attached as my R nineT had a similar system that dripped when it was hot.

IMG_4145.webp
 
Last edited:
Line plugged from the intake, line left open above the purge valve and tucked away. 😎
Is there any issues with leaving an open line to a controlled device?

IMG_4149.webpIMG_4150.webp
 
Good topic but as a non-native english speaker I read it ten times and still have to ask just to make it sure that I don`t destroy anything :) Sorry that I borrowed some pictures from this topic.

1. As shown in the picture; the hose from tank to evap-canister (marked as yellow/1.) could be replaced with a new straight hose and the end that was connected to evap-canister could be left to free air (as that is just a fuel tank breather if I understood correct) ? Other options are to open vent and remove insides or just to drill through ?

2. The second line (marked with blue/2.) is the hose with electronic vent. It should be plugged but connector should be left attached? Does it matter do I plug it from bottom or above the vent ? I would assume plugging it from bottom (between the evap canister and vent/red arrow) would prevent dirt from getting to vent and the hose from vent to intake could be left as is ?

If some professional could confirm these I promise to make clear point to point instructions with pictures about evap-delete so that even us non-native would understand :D

I will try to remove the canister too. I had no issues with fumes on my previous bike and it had just straight line for the fuel tank breather. There might have been some kind of "blowback-vent" (I don`t know what it`s called in english) to prevent flow to the otherway but it had no evap-system.

20221029_130922.jpgIMG_1487.jpeg

E72DDE25-3AE0-4AA9-8460-1639C7F2C153.jpeg
 
anders said:
If some professional could confirm these I promise to make clear point to point instructions with pictures about evap-delete so that even us non-native would understand
Click to expand...
These are well defined/shown in the posts directly above already. 1. Yes. 2. No, it must be plugged between the purge valve and induction sleeve (your blue arrow above) as shown in Tom's posts above.
 
GTM® said:
These are well defined/shown in the posts directly above already. 1. Yes. 2. No, it must be plugged between the purge valve and induction sleeve (your blue arrow above) as shown in Tom's posts above.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the confirmation and sorry about the stupid questions but actually post above just confused me more. I mean earlier someone just removed the hose and put a ~8mm slug (I would assume thread cutted off from M8 bolt would do the same) to the hose and connected it back to vent without cutting the hose. It leaves the possibility to get back to stock if for some reason it would be needed.
Anyway can I still plug the vent also from above (red arrow) to prevent dirt getting in the vent or should it be left open to free air to breath ?
Thank you.

And yes; I have to use dictionary to write these posts.
 
anders said:
Thanks for the confirmation and sorry about the stupid questions but actually post above just confused me more. I mean earlier someone just removed the hose and put a ~8mm slug (I would assume thread cutted off from M8 bolt would do the same) to the hose and connected it back to vent without cutting the hose. It leaves the possibility to get back to stock if for some reason it would be needed.
Anyway can I still plug the vent also from above (red arrow) to prevent dirt getting in the vent or should it be left open to free air to breath ?
Thank you.

And yes; I have to use dictionary to write these posts.
Click to expand...
Reconnection is why I cut mine where I did and left the canister. I didn't that to the tank valve, I just gutted it. 😎
 
Here's what I want to know, what is this in the picture? :think:
 

Attachments

  • Image 3-15-24 at 4.30 PM.webp
    Image 3-15-24 at 4.30 PM.webp
    42.7 KB · Views: 19
Looks to be a brass hose union (connector) inserted where somebody previously cut the hose, hence the reason for the two Oetiker clamps on either side of it.


IMG_4104.jpeg
 
I would listen to GTM and I’m positive there is a brass union in there. I’d bet you $5 !
 
Another question, does the ECU controlled Bosch valve open so the intake can then draw the fumes into the intake from the canister through that line and open valve for reburn? (my line is now plugged going to the intake) and if the top Bosch line is left open will gas vapors from the canister be release to atmosphere through it? (my top line is open). Ps I'm thinking of plugging the from the canister to the bottom of the Bosch valve as I get a little gas smell after a good ride. Thanks.
I'm trying not to think about it too much about it as it runs fine. 😎
 
Tom Prescott said:
does the ECU controlled Bosch valve open so the intake can then draw the fumes into the intake
Click to expand...
Yes, but not “reburn” - it simply controls the intake vacuum so that it doesn’t constantly pull through the canister. Such an overly complex “solution.” Back in the day the gas cap simply vented to the atmosphere. Now the world is collapsing because of it. You can plug the line below too, just don’t cap the Bosch valve.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top