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V7 C-S Suspension Thread

GT-Rx® said:
My limited experience with them, is that they were pretty terrible, hence why I don't sell them on this website. That combined with permanent modification of the forks to get them to fit means you are stuck, sorry to say.
OTOH, These are exceptionally good, and are drop in; https://gtmotocycles.com/products/matris-v7-f15k-full-cartridge-kit
Click to expand...

Todd, thanks for the feedback. Would the Matris kit work on my forks with the forks already modified from the Andreani installation or am I stuck with the Andreani kit I have now and nothing else?
 
Not meaning to hijack your thread, but ...

The new bike has the rear shocks tightend up a few turns and on rought pavement, nasty cracks the ride is Brutal !
Like riding a hardtail frame, not sure if it’s just ultra stiff, or bottoming out ?

I am hoping that by loosening them back to *normal* it will be able to absorb the bumps !
Or maybe I’m just too used to the Honda XR650L Ride :)

Comments suggestions on setup appreciated .

Thanks,
Don
 
Lot's of shock coverage here if you search for it. The V7 is brutal from the factory and backing it way off helps a tiny bit.
Best to go to the store link and buy a set for your weight. they will actually work pretty well but remember in reality there is only about 3 1/2" travel. But that's more than a Harley.
 
Thanks Vagrant ( Doesn't sound like much of a Friendly Greeting :) )

I was searching / reading and there were threads about lowering the bike - not so many about raising it/them.

Im tall 6'2 and used to the XR height, I'm considering a seat Enhancement to make it thicker / taller.
1/2 - 3/4 is No travel.
 
Sorry wasn't meant that way.
Todd can get shocks a tiny bit longer but you're limited by the swing arm. stretch it wider and parts will hit.
I needed more height on the 2015 V7 and used a sheepskin covered pad that was 2 different typed of foam like a backpackers pad and a layer of jell. gave me about a 1 1/4 more but he sold out and the guy that took over the business changed it for profit not betterment.
you can get stadium seat pads at wally world for $4. and make up some by glueing them together until you find the right recipe.
 
Lol, No no I was talking about my addressing you as Mr. Vagrant.
( if you were Grant from Virginia it would be perfect - or did you move .)

Yes, I can imagine the the geometry of the rear suspension Will only work within certain parameters.
I’ll play with the adjustment and try to lose some weigh;)

Thanks again,
Don
 
DeadEye said:
Thanks Vagrant ( Doesn't sound like much of a Friendly Greeting :) )

I was searching / reading and there were threads about lowering the bike - not so many about raising it/them.

Im tall 6'2 and used to the XR height, I'm considering a seat Enhancement to make it thicker / taller.
1/2 - 3/4 is No travel.
Click to expand...

I'm just a bit taller than you. I have the rear shocks finally set to a pretty good place. Had to just bring them way down and then ride a bad road with a couple of twists over and over again while adjusting. Got them to where they are now after about 45 minutes. Pretty sure I was starting to worry the locals...:wondering: You can find a decent place with the stock shocks but I'm still not satisified.

Ended up ordering a set from Todd sprung for my weight (i'm a biggun :(). They are being made now. Todd recommended +20mm on the shocks if my inseam can handle it (which it can)Very much looking forward to them. That back rise along with the 10mm I dropped the front forks should make things a little better for me. Guess we will see.

That said the V7, as is, or with a peg drop is pretty comfortable. Much better than anything else I've ridden. I may get the stock seat reworked. Wanting to add more miles before making that decision.
 
Here's a tip on Todd's shocks. they will come perfectly set up for you with a paper showing the settings. Just install and ride them 1000 miles without adjusting. they are a bit stiff and need breaking in just like a new engine. if you play around with them in the beginning you will eventually come back to the original anyway. + or- 1 or 2 clicks or turns.
great investment in yourself if you plan to keep the bike for more than 1-2 years. also just break down and buy the straight weight fork springs at the same time or else you will spend the same amount or more fixing chipped teeth from the jackhammer front end.
 
Great, thank you both for the input.

Aproud1 - Do you know generally how many turns from No pre-load you have the stock shocks set.
As a reference from zero to have an idea wheres yours are set vs. where mine are now.

Much appreciated,
Don
 
vagrant said:
Here's a tip on Todd's shocks. they will come perfectly set up for you with a paper showing the settings. Just install and ride them 1000 miles without adjusting. they are a bit stiff and need breaking in just like a new engine. if you play around with them in the beginning you will eventually come back to the original anyway. + or- 1 or 2 clicks or turns.
great investment in yourself if you plan to keep the bike for more than 1-2 years. also just break down and buy the straight weight fork springs at the same time or else you will spend the same amount or more fixing chipped teeth from the jackhammer front end.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. My plan was to do the rear first. Then stack more pennies to do the front. Didn't realize what mods made the most sense and blew a bunch of cash on various other things first. I'm sure I'm the first person to do that around here.

DeadEye said:
Great, thank you both for the input.

Aproud1 - Do you know generally how many turns from No pre-load you have the stock shocks set.
As a reference from zero to have an idea wheres yours are set vs. where mine are now.

Much appreciated,
Don
Click to expand...

I don't I was measuring distance versus turns. Looks like I have 15 threads showing under the locking ring. This will be more of a personal adjustment though. I worked towards the best mix of comfort and performance I could find. Not bouncing me off and still tight in corners.

Tried measuring and adjusting based on that. All it got me was frustration. Trial and error got me to a much better place and it gave me an excuse to ride my bike!
 
Yes, I understand rider has a lot to do with the setup, but I like to have some information about where I’m going with the adjustments.

I did some testing at lunch ;) went from 5 threads to 11 and the ride is much improved over a local stretch of obstacle course I need to navigate to leave the neighborhood,
I’ll keep going till it gets worse, then back off.

No adjustment on the front forks though... but one of the kits I saw in another thread looked like a viable option.
[URL]https://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/gt-v7-v7-ii-hybrid-air-fork-kit/[\url]
Broken link ?

Thanks for the input, gentlemen ![/URL]
 
Last edited:
DeadEye said:
Yes, I understand rider has a lot to do with the setup, but I like to have some information about where I’m going with the adjustments.
I’ll hopefully be able to do some testing ;) tonight and I’ll report back.
Click to expand...

Understand. I tried to follow instructions online but I eventually gave up. Found it easiest to measure from the bottom of the shock to the adjustment ring with the lock ring dropped. Adjust, snug the lock ring, ride, adjust, snug the lock ring until I felt it go to far. Just keeping notes on how many mm from the bottom of the shock so I could go back.

Not super scientific but did get me to a happy place. Good luck tonight. :cool:
 
Last edited:
DeadEye said:
Yes, I understand rider has a lot to do with the setup, but I like to have some information about where I’m going with the adjustments.
I’ll hopefully be able to do some testing ;) tonight and I’ll report back.
The new bike has the rear shocks tightend up a few turns and on rought pavement, nasty cracks the ride is Brutal ! Like riding a hardtail frame, not sure if it’s just ultra stiff, or bottoming out ? I am hoping that by loosening them back to *normal* it will be able to absorb the bumps ! Or maybe I’m just too used to the Honda XR650L Ride
Click to expand...
Combined your posts with this thread. Read from the first page. Unless you are an extreme lightweight, reducing spring preload makes things way worse. Sag is critical, and will tell you instantly if the shock on the bike is adequate or not. Likely not for all normal sized adults.
You will no way/no how will you get a twin shock V7 to ride like a monoshock off-road machine. ;)
 
I’m feeling better ... ( no he’s not, he’ll be “Stone” dead in a week ! [Holy Grail quote])

Much better last night only a couple of bone jarring cracks made it to me!
A few more cranks and out again tonight

But Todd, they said I could get the same 9” of travel on this bike as the Honda ( not)

I think I’m learning - the spring force/rate has to work with the damping of the shocks,

Spring too soft - hit a pothole/expansion joint the bike drops, shock compresses quickly and I get the Jolt
Stiffer spring/more preload - same circumstances the event occurs the spring slows the compression the shock slows the rebound .
( I’m asking if I’m “getting it” Not stating ...)

Thanks,
Don
 
Last edited:
Much better now, and the difference between highway driving and bad local road is significant.
It’s great on regional back roads !
I can put the thought of having to look for new suspension on the back burner for a while.
But I did find these beauties ! Only 189$ for matched GOLDEN paper weights !

CheapieChina-PBShks.webp
 
Last edited:
DeadEye said:
But Todd, they said I could get the same 9” of travel on this bike as the Honda ( not)
Click to expand...
NOT.
I think I’m learning - the spring force/rate has to work with the damping of the shocks,
Spring too soft - hit a pothole/expansion joint the bike drops, shock compresses quickly and I get the Jolt
Stiffer spring/more preload - same circumstances the event occurs the spring slows the compression the shock slows the rebound.
Click to expand...
It does, it all revolves around available travel and damping. Most above Italian average weights, use a great deal of available travel, and the twin shock bikes are nearly 1:1, meaning the wheels moves 1", the shock nearly compresses 1". If you have 2" of shock travel, and use 1-1/2" just sitting on it, you can see the dilemma, and add compressing the oils/gas in the shocks to ~75% and it's a disaster. Softening the spring preload means you will use more base travel when simply seated.
There's a TON of good info online, so I can't expand much further here.
Those garbage Chinese shocks are indeed $189 paperweights(!).
 
King of Fleece said:
Shocks are the FIRST thing to get right on any motorcycle. $189.00 crap Chinese stuff is an insult to paperweights everywhere.
Click to expand...

This rock contacted me about filing a suit claiming It was a Better Suspension component than those Pictured above
images.webp

I had to refuse as I'm not a lawyer, I was a geologist...
I think it was Loosing its Marbles... :nerd:

( I couldn't think of a Granite pun... )
 
I recently installed the Matris Standard rear shock to replace my stock BiTubos. Noticeable improvement on first ride with only doing basic pre-load and damping adjustment. I'll post a better review after I get things dialed in. I really tried to make the BiTubos work for me. I replaced the stock springs with weight-rated Race Tech springs (and lots of adjustments) and it helped but it didn't solve my issue. I can't believe they sell the BiTubos for 1K, it makes the 190.00 knock-offs look like a reasonable option.

After nearly being launched (not the first time) on a ride this spring, I said to myself I'm done screwing around and ordered the Matris shocks from the Store. Thanks for offering real solutions to our bikes GuzziTech! I did the Matris pre-load kit on the front in 2015. After 8 years and 18K miles I can now say my bike is fully sorted. My only question is why did I wait so long? (Oh I know, I'm a tightwad) Don't be like me, just do it and be happy you did.
 
The Öhlins suspension units on the 2017 V7III Racer were definitely a big part of the draw to this bike for me. Once fitted with the correct weight springs for my weight and dialed in, they do a perfect job. :D
 
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