OK, this is how it went for me. YMMV.
I acquired my 2013 V7 Racer, used, in 2014 with about 2,000 miles on the clock. As far as I know, the battery and R/R were the same ones that the bike left the factory with.
I read this thread when Todd first started it in 2016. I tested my regulator then, and it was, indeed, over charging—15+ volts. But I had put many thousands of miles on the bike already with no problems. So I decided to live with it and see what happens.
Many more miles went by with no troubles. Then, about a year ago, starting became iffy. I bought a new battery—same make and model as the original (Yuasa 14 BS) and put it on the shelf.
Then, a couple of days ago—that's 8 years since the bike was built, 7 years in my ownership, 5 years since I knew of the overcharging problem, and one year after battery illness raised its head—the battery died and would not charge. I'd been expecting this--whether or not the R/R is faulty or to blame; after all, what battery lasts 8 years?
I'm glad I waited. A plug and play MOSFET replacement was not available back then, and I had a feeling R & R of the R/R would be a pain. People making up mounting plates and soldering their own wiring harness impressed, but did not move me to action.
These days, a drop-in fix is available, from Todd on this site, and other places as well, so I decided to go for it.
Before I begin the description of what is involved in the R & R, (there is no other place this where all the info below is available, so, you're welcome) let me point out that MG has been using that particular regulator since time out of mind. In fact, my 2007 CalVin has one and it has always performed just fine. I know hyperlinks are not allowed on the site, but I found a site that listed several dozen applications for that model R/R. Why some of them charge at over 15 v and others seem to charge at 14.4 is beyond me. The stock, non-MOSFET R/Rs are much much cheaper than the MOSFET, so if it is possible that the more recent batch of standard replacements do not over charge, replacing like for like might be viable. I have not data on that, just conjecture.
Anyway, here is what I did on my Racer. Trust me, not all V7's are alike. Videos and images I've seen on the web, show configurations quite different from what I have on my bike. As I said, YMMV. And I apologize for no photos. I get into a project and I just want to get it done.
- Drain the tank. Siphon works. But I could not get the tube in until I removed the the leather straps and the trim ring, rubber washers and all the other stuff that surrounds the tank opening.
- Again, models may vary but it is IMPOSSIBLE to access the R/R plugs with the the tank slid back alone. It's got to come off.
- Tank removal is well-documented; but here goes again:
- Remove seat, remove rear fixing bolt, slide tank back off mounting rubbers.
- There are four (count 'em and remember to count again on installation!) disconnections that have to be made.
- Lift the front of the tank and remove the big hose—no clamps, it just pushes on to a spigot on the tank.
- Lift the back end of the tank and remove the smaller hose, similarly attached to a straight spigot at the back end of the tank.
- Uncouple the fuel pump wiring and run the engine till it dies. Uncouple the F***ING quick connect. Actually, mine came apart easily. I don't know why, it just did. Sorry if yours does not; but there are six zillion and five posts about the issue. Read 'em all if you have time!
- That was the easy part Now comes the fun part. The two electrical connectors for the R/R are buried under the head stock—that's why the tank has to come off—you can't reach the connectors any other way. Every cable and bit of harness is jammed in there, and just getting to them is NOT easy. In fact I even took off the right spark plug lead form its coil to give me a bit more finger room.
- If you haven't taken the front tanks straps all the way off do that, too. That leather harness is also in the way. The horns come off with it
- Unbolt the R/R and push it up . Tie it up or block it up—anything to get a bit of slack in the wires. You need the room.
- The white coupling is a bear: it's jammed in there with little slack to get a grip on either end. Push down on the tab and get a smallish screwdriver in there and twist to start the separation. Use a wider bladed screwdriver when you need to.
- Now the black connector it's a bit easier. Mine had a zip tie on it to keep it together. The connection seems secure but someone at the factory thought it needed help, so …
The rest is easy. Pull out the old and thread in the new. I even put a zip tie back on the black connector.
Then, as they say, installation is reversal of removal.
Hope this helps
