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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

My 14 V7R has the issue, 15.25v at idle and 3k. Purchased the reg/rec from this thread on eBay. It came as a pretty complete kit including a substantial inline 30a fuse holder. Anyone install that or we should be good without it based on the bikes stock elec sys? From the thread it seems like just swap the connectors over from stock to the new one and good to go but wanted to confirm.
 
vagrant said:
on the 15 I didn't remove the tank. as I recall just slid it back a bit.
Click to expand...

yup, you are correct - tank slides back a few inches. Quick note, I found that the spark plug wires need adjusting - I actually wrapped one of my wires as they rub against the bottom of the tank and rubs the paint off. Worth taking a look if you all have the chance.
 
I just thought I would add to this. I had originally posted a pic (somewhere in here) that mine read fine a year back. Right at 14.4. Six months later needed a new battery, Three more months and needed another............WTF............My regulator is not charging at all is what was diagnosed. My shop has my bike. Replacement regulator #1 was reading 15.4. I suggested the one many used from roadstercycle. They said to me have another one on the way. That new one when arrived registered 15.6. I sent them one to install this AM. Like the plug caps, I waited till I had an issue rather than proactively replacing. urgh.
 
I checked my 2015 5 speed for this issue at 72 miles, the highest I was reading even at 3k rpm was very close to 14.4. I will check again around the first service interval to see if the issue pops up.
 
Well, my wife's VR on her 2014 V7 Special needs to be replaced and did some checking with Jack Flemming on his VR replacement kit (based on a referral in an earlier post here). The kit is for the single phase alternator supposedly used by these bikes and requires minimal wiring changes. He says it only uses two wires to hook up from the OEM harness, and then uses a new harness( in the kit) from the VR that runs directly to the battery. If correct, this would be a much simpler fix wiring wise.

I'd like to confirm our OEM system is a single phase as I reviewed this thread and didn't see a reference to this, but maybe missed it. Also, has anybody here used his kit FH020AA.
 
The FH020AA (made by Shindengen) regulator/rectifier at roadstercycle.com. Shindengen are the main (or so it seems) Japanese rec/reg manufacturers. Their products are top quality. Whichever way you go with an aftermarket r/r, make sure you go straight for a MOSFET type of r/r. I have routinely swapped mine on bikes for quite some years now. I've never had a bike with MOSFET r/r standard, but some Jap bike do come with them. I have a Shindengen FH020AA on the shelf now, ready to go on my V7iii. I have fitted one on my DR650 already.

If you visit roadstercycle.com you'll see that you can buy kits in various stages of completeness. You WILL need new plugs and some wire. I buy their "Complete Mosfet Kit FH020AA DIY crimp or solder kit!". You can make it fit pretty much any bike.

Btw, take their hint: Wire the output from your new r/r directly to your battery (via the supplied cct breaker). Don't use the existing wiring for the output.
 
Last edited:
Spokane2303 said:
Does this regulator fit directly on the current Guzzi mount or do I also need to purchase an adapter?

BTW, Thanks so much for your help!
Click to expand...
I saw a photo of someone's fitment of precisely that model in a thread somewhere on this site - possibly this thread - someone will know. It's simple, neat and looks almost oem. You'll need to make a simple adapter bracket. I'm assuming here that you have a V7.

Due to the fact that the MOSFET r/r runs so much cooler, there are small gains (up to around 25watts dependent on how good your wiring is now) to be had in increased output as well large gains in reliability and stability of output.
 
... found it! It's just on the previous page - there several different folk's pix to view. I mount mine with the plugs pointing downwards, to prevent water and gunk accumulation in around the electrickery connections.
 
Is this overcharging scenario still an issue on the 2017 V7 III models?
 
GuzziTex said:
Is this overcharging scenario still an issue on the 2017 V7 III models?
Click to expand...

My V7III Racer had weird charging behavior from when I bought it last October. I finally identified the problem as a bad OEM Yuasa battery causing the charging system to have fits in early February. I fitted an AntiGravity Lithium battery (from GTM) and the charging system is now functioning perfectly.

If you suspect a malfunctioning charging system on your bike, it's best to check it.
 
Godfrey said:
My V7III Racer had weird charging behavior from when I bought it last October. I finally identified the problem as a bad OEM Yuasa battery causing the charging system to have fits in early February. I fitted an AntiGravity Lithium battery (from GTM) and the charging system is now functioning perfectly.

If you suspect a malfunctioning charging system on your bike, it's best to check it.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll check it.
 
Hi guys. My battery died but it was a Yuasa that has been trickle charged on a CTEK charger all it's life. Found that voltage going to batt was only 11.5V! Had a buddy replace the stock Guzzi rectifier (eyes watering at cost). Voltage reading is now 15.07V.

PADS reading:

ERRORS PRESENT SINCE THE BEGINNING OF COMMUNICATION

P0336 Engine rpm sensor (Consistency) – Inconsistent signal MEM

I guess my cam sensor/rpm sensor is fried? :envy:
:mad::(
 
Just a memory error not active, just a fluke. Maybe has some metal on it to give bad reading from break-in. just clear errors and ride.
 
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