V7 III Evap/Tip removal

[Patrick Stirling]

Thought I'd chime in on this thread. I bought s 2019 V7 III Stone Night Pack (phew, long name!) a couple of weeks ago, and have about 550m on it so far. I've suffered the excess vacuum in the fuel tank problem as described by Godfrey several times. Seems worst when the fuel level is low and temps are warm (mid 70s here in Tucson AZ). The first time there was just a slight gasp as I opened the tank to refuel. Second time the bike started running a little rough and sort-of hesitating. I remembered Godfrey's comments, pulled over and opened the gas cap - giant sucking sound! And then the bike ran perfectly again. But then I stopped at our mailboxes to chat with a neighbor, and the bike was a little hard to restart, then ran a bit rough getting home (about 3/4 mile). In the garage I opened the gas cap and got another fairly loud gasp. So either the evap recovery valve or the fuel cap vent isn't working.
Someone posted a photo of the fuel cap vent assembly, looks like it should allow air into the tank as gas is used.
Anyway, I think I'll be disabling the evap recovery system sooner rather than later! I've also ordered a pitbull stand, which I think will require removing the canister - although it seems that it could be relocated with zipties.

 

[subin]

... I've suffered the excess vacuum in the fuel tank problem as described by Godfrey several times. Seems worst when the fuel level is low and temps are warm (mid 70s here in Tucson AZ). The first time there was just a slight gasp as I opened the tank to refuel.

Mine is also a 2019 V7 III Night pack and I do notice the air relief sound when I open the gas cap, but the motor has been running fine and I have no issue starting cold around 55 F or warm around 90 F, at low fuel warning ON or near full tank. I am going to remove the canister anyway after the first service.

 

[Bert Remington]

I found it easier to remove the spring in the gas cap: Evap removal from V7III

 

[DominoDoggy]

... I've also ordered a pitbull stand, which I think will require removing the canister - although it seems that it could be relocated with zipties.

My Pitbull stand works fine without relocating the canister on my 2014 V7 Stone. I also get the heavy vacuum gasp after opening the tank. I haven't gotten any performance issues yet but I also don't want to wait until they develop.

 

[DominoDoggy]

I have a question or two about disabling the EVAP system on my '14 V7 Stone. The related hoses, as far as I can tell, consist of...

1) A vacuum line originating at the throttle body air ducting, supplying necessary suction, leading to the EVAP canister
2) A hose from the EVAP canister that leads to the front of the tank (underneath) - tank vent
3) A hose from the rear of the tank (underneath) that drains away rain water from the upper lip of the filler cap
4) A hose from the fuel pump into a "Tee" fitting, leading to the injectors (not related to the evap removal task but mentioned here for clarity)

A) First question would be - is that correct?

B) Second question - is all that is really necessary to disable the EVAP system is detatch the throttle body vacuum line? And obviously plug the engine side but probably a good idea to plug the canister side as well. Maybe a 1/4" splice connector that is filled with JB Weld or similar. Hook it back together but effectively plugging the line

I have tried to follow the thread but this is as best as I can grasp it.

 

[Raymond G]

I just got my V7III 2020 Racer. Is the issue the same for that model as well? Because of the snow I haven't been able to ride it yet. Thanks this is a great resource.

 

[Luca Alessandro]

Thought I'd chime in on this thread. I bought s 2019 V7 III Stone Night Pack (phew, long name!) a couple of weeks ago, and have about 550m on it so far. I've suffered the excess vacuum in the fuel tank problem as described by Godfrey several times. Seems worst when the fuel level is low and temps are warm (mid 70s here in Tucson AZ). The first time there was just a slight gasp as I opened the tank to refuel. Second time the bike started running a little rough and sort-of hesitating. I remembered Godfrey's comments, pulled over and opened the gas cap - giant sucking sound! And then the bike ran perfectly again. But then I stopped at our mailboxes to chat with a neighbor, and the bike was a little hard to restart, then ran a bit rough getting home (about 3/4 mile). In the garage I opened the gas cap and got another fairly loud gasp. So either the evap recovery valve or the fuel cap vent isn't working.
Someone posted a photo of the fuel cap vent assembly, looks like it should allow air into the tank as gas is used.
Anyway, I think I'll be disabling the evap recovery system sooner rather than later! I've also ordered a pitbull stand, which I think will require removing the canister - although it seems that it could be relocated with zipties.

looking to get a Stone S but if not available a Night Pack.

have you had an opportunity to remove the EVAP yet? If so, would you mind posting details as to how you did it?

Trying to compile as much info as possible on that EVAP removal, still wrapping my head around the most efficient way to do it.

Thank you!

 

[DominoDoggy]

I disabled my EVAP, finally. I just plugged the vacuum line and replaced the one-way check valve with a splice fitting. The one-way valve was not operating properly, I don't think. When I removed the little check valve some really old dark yellow fuel escaped. Looked like it had been sitting there on top of that check valve for quite a while - long enough to turn a dark yellow color. The engine seems to settle much faster when first started, almost immediately. No hunting up and down with the RPMs trying to get settled, it just starts immediately and smoothly gets into a nice idle, ready for departure.

 

[Luca Alessandro]

I disabled my EVAP, finally. I just plugged the vacuum line and replaced the one-way check valve with a splice fitting. The one-way valve was not operating properly, I don't think. When I removed the little check valve some really old dark yellow fuel escaped. Looked like it had been sitting there on top of that check valve for quite a while - long enough to turn a dark yellow color. The engine seems to settle much faster when first started, almost immediately. No hunting up and down with the RPMs trying to get settled, it just starts immediately and smoothly gets into a nice idle, ready for departure.

Thats awesome, congrats on a successful mod! I’ve been told getting inspections after the EVAP removal may be difficult depending on where you take your bike. Have you had any issues with this? I can do oil changes myself but never have done Transmission or gearbox oil.

thanks

 

[DeadEye]

Hi,

The transmission and Rear drive are as simple as an engine oil change.

Don

 

[DominoDoggy]

The city I live in doesn't have any emissions testing for passenger vehicles, automobiles included. Plus, I don't plan to live anywhere that doesn't specifically exempt motorcycles. In my region, the only law for motorcycle exhaust is "it must have a muffler" but other areas may be (are) different. It's a risk one takes, modifying exhaust is generally frowned upon by the gubmints, so you have to weigh your risks. In California, they are stricter but we've read here that once it passes, they don't really test them again. There is also the California "Motorcycle Anti Tampering Act" to consider.

Thats awesome, congrats on a successful mod! I’ve been told getting inspections after the EVAP removal may be difficult depending on where you take your bike. Have you had any issues with this? I can do oil changes myself but never have done Transmission or gearbox oil.

thanks

 

[Luca Alessandro]

I just bought a 2020 Stone S model but it is stored by dealer until March or April so I cannot inspect it. Does my bike have the Carbon canister? Your post suggests it does not, but just checking because I would like to get a Stein Dinse work stand and want to know if this canister will need to be relocated or removed as in this thread. Thanks

Had a chance to see your new bike yet? I’m searching for a Stone S too, hope there a few still sitting around

 

[Ken Horii]

Had a chance to see your new bike yet? I’m searching for a Stone S too, hope there a few still sitting around

Seacoast cycles in New Hampshire have one. Also, Brockton Cycle Center, Brockton Mass. Seacoast cycles offered to deliver a bike to me in RI free. They are a pleasure to deal with. I ended up getting an S from RAZEE in RI at an excellent price, but Seacoast has some Guzzis on sale at great prices.

 

[Jeff Gemignani]

Knocked out my SAS delete yesterday and just did my EVAP. I left the EVAP can on to catch any excess fuel.

Cut the breather line and inserted a simple bolt from Lowes to plug it, used some auto adhesive and screwed it into the rubber line, fit nice and snug and once the adhesive sets should be good to go. Removed the rest of the hose from the EVAP canister, can anyone advise if the opening on the EVAP canister where the breather line was attached should be plugged with a rubber cap?

Removed the pinch clamps above and below the tip valve and used a barbed coupler I found on Amazon and secured with hose clamps: amazon.com/gp/product/B00BONM4JC/

The tag for the bolt I used to plug the breather is attached along with photos of the finished lines.

 

[GTM®]

can anyone advise if the opening on the EVAP canister where the breather line was attached should be plugged with a rubber cap?

If you’re leaving the canister in place, do NOT plug the vent line. You will do what you’re trying to eliminate with tank pressurization.

 

[Luca Alessandro]

Finally did the SAS and EVAP removal to complete the overhaul of my V7III exhaust. First I wrapped my headers and mounted my new Mistral Shorts. I used the GTM SAS removal kit, which was pretty straightforward, then removed the EVAP system (below) and finally flashed the ECU with the GTM Flash Tool.

Here is another way to skin a cat, if it serves useful to anyone looking to do this...

The EVAP removal was fairly simple. Did my homework on these forums - first. Then I completely removed the vacuum line to the manifold (since I already had the gas tank loosened having just finished the SAS delete) and plugged it with a rubber vacuum cap and a hose clamp.

For the breather line, I decided to leave the canister in place to catch any rogue drops of fuel and to prevent dust from entering (very unlikely, I know, but I ride often into Mexico where the dust flows like wine!). I snipped the breather line above and below the check valve and joined the two with a 5/16 (7.9mm) barbed fuel line coupler from O'Reilly's. It fit very snugly on the line. I hose clamped both of the snipped ends to ensure the coupler doesn't move and zip tied it all back into it's original stock position. See the attached pics for a visual.

Took the bike for a nice 150 mile ride east of San Diego yesterday. Can't say enough about how great it feels. Its been said before but I'll say it again: it is a whole new bike. With the new fuel map + deleted EVAP and SAS + exhaust, this bike is just so much smoother. Especially the first 3 gears. Before it would jerk and lurch forward like it had a mind of its own, and now it rolls off a stop like butter. Very pleased with it all.

What size vacuum cap did you use for the manifold.

 

[DominoDoggy]

I figured that I should post this here, as it pertains to troubles that I originally attributed to the EVAP canister system on my bike.

Earlier in the thread I mentioned where I disabled the EVAP system, plugged the vacuum line, removed the one-way valve, etc. The main issue I was having was, I kept having either pressure buildup in the tank or vacuum buildup in the tank. Figured without the EVAP system and assuming the one-way valve was acting up as well, everything would work like it should. But I kept having vacuum buildup, or pressure. Thing is, it was neither of those. It was a vent line being melted shut behind the starter. The litte vent hose coming off the front of the fuel tank runs down, passes through the one-way valve going down to the canister. Yep, for whatever reason someone at the factory or someone doing prior work on the bike decided to stuff every fuel line they could behind the starter, cramping everything together and making lines come in contact with the engine, or should I say transmission. The big ol' metal thing that vibrates real hard when the bike is running. Anyway, over time this vent line melted completely shut, and the only way to see it, let alone get to it, was to remove the starter.

 

[DeadEye]

Wow !
#&$@$&)(#@$& annoying - that took a while to figure out.
When I fooled around with mine it was a real @#$ , moving / removing the lines

 

[DominoDoggy]

Wow !
#&$@$&)(#@$& annoying - that took a while to figure out.
When I fooled around with mine it was a real @#$ , moving / removing the lines

I kept thinking, something has to be clogged. Can't get any less complex than a vent line, especially once I spliced out that one-way valve. I kept noticing all the lines packed behind the starter, I just kept not wanting to pull it off. Ah well, at least it is fixed now and wasn't expensive to remedy.

Rainy weather makes for good maintenance days.

 

[morpheous]

Damn confusing instructions with wierd cuts.....no cutting is required other than near the top of the manifold line. Plug the top hose (manifold side) ,,then simply remove the grey one-way valve on the tank vent tube, and then remove the evap cannister with two hose tails attached (Tank vent bottom hose after valve, and Manifold hose bottom after first cut.) Right?