V7 III Evap/Tip removal

[jwtucker]

My assumption is that the choices that were made in that post were to do the absolute minimum to effect the change, or to keep it looking as "stock" as possible to avoid conflict with the dealer's service dept. Oetiker clamps can be a bear to remove, especially if you don't have a decent tool to do the job handy, so it was probably easier just to cut those hose than try to remove the clamps.

The moral of the story, however, is that as long as you plug the vacuum port to the intake and also either remove the breather valve entirely or modify it to prevent it from jamming and causing vacuum-lock in your fuel tank, the exact specifics of how you accomplish it aren't that important. That was just one example of how to tackle it.

__Jason

 

[GTM®]

no cutting is required other than near the top of the manifold line. Plug the top hose (manifold side) ,,then simply remove the grey one-way valve on the tank vent tube, and then remove the evap cannister with two hose tails attached (Tank vent bottom hose after valve, and Manifold hose bottom after first cut.) Right?

Per Jason above, there are many ways to tackle this. You can do it your way if you'd like. For those who want a "no fuel smell", you can do it Godfrey's way. If you want to remove the whole system, you can, just run the tank breather line to the ground, and plug the intake (a rubber vacuum cap will not suffice).

 

[Chrisfer]

My assumption is that the choices that were made in that post were to do the absolute minimum to effect the change, or to keep it looking as "stock" as possible to avoid conflict with the dealer's service dept.

To look as stock as possible, simply remove the valve spring that is in the tank cap.
Only three screws under the cap to access and no more pressure problem leaving the entire valve and pipe system.

 

[Terence]

After much consideration I decided to bite to bullet and go with the Flash Tool. Digging in the forum learnt that one has to replace SAS as well as remove evap to eliminate the choking throttle issue. However, most of the instructions on EVAP are v7III based. Would it be correct to assume the v9 follows the same procedure?

 

[GUZZINO001]

hello, do you think my V7 III can have an improvement by eliminating the canister? I installed mistral exhausts and sprintfilter air filter.

 

[DeadEye]

I am NOT a mechanic - I'm a Rider

I believe removing the evaporation canister on its own would not make much of a change - but it is one more little thing that add's variables to the air that feeds the engine.
The change of filter and exhaust to something that improves air flow would benefit from the changes in the ECU programming (tune) to take advantage of those changes.

Simply changing the Tune would probably make a difference to every motorcycle by altering some of the characteristics of how the engine is controlled.

 

[scott_m]

hello, do you think my V7 III can have an improvement by eliminating the canister? I installed mistral exhausts and sprintfilter air filter.

The decision to remove the carbon canister is one of drivability and preventative measures against future air leaks and other complications.

In theory, the canister traps fuel fumes from the fuel tank from heat expansion and then allows those fumes to be pulled into the fuel induction manifold to be burned when the bike is started. Unfortunately it is invariably constructed from the absolute cheapest components that can be sourced, which are notoriously plagued with problems.

Understand that there are absolutely no performance (power) gains to be had from removal of the system nor will it alter running conditions of lean/rich fueling. It is only about drivability and running issues (like the “moaning whale” sound caused by faulty components.

 

[GUZZINO001]

every now and then inexplicably the minimum gets up a little .... I thought about the canister ... also my bike is probably a bit lean with filter and aftermarker exhaust so removing an air inlet from the manifold can only do well.

 

[GUZZINO001]

damn enough the intake manifold .... when you go to detach the canister tube as far as you are careful it still flexes and risks breaking ... slight veins can open

 

[scott_m]

Mi dispiace ma hai detto così tante cose che mi sono confuso.

 

[GUZZINO001]

when you go to detach the pipe from the intake manifold to plug it you have to take care that the material of the collector is delicate enough

 

[scott_m]

Sì, capisco. È plastica fragile. Raccomando un set di questi che sono economici e disponibili negli Stati Uniti. Sono sicuro che possono essere trovati su Amazon.com o qualcosa di simile in Italia.

Di tutti gli strumenti che possiedo, li uso più di ogni altro quando lavoro sulle motociclette.



Apologies to those who do not speak Italian.

He says that the material of the collector is very delicate, and I agree because it is fragile plastic. I tell him about the hose pliers that I use and how they are available here in the USA (Harbor Freight) and also on Amazon.com and that he can probably also find them in Italy.

I also say that of all the tools I own, I use these more than any other working on motorcycles.

 

[GUZZINO001]

it is better to plug the pipe behind the left side panel and avoid working on the intake manifold, the result is the same.

 

[GUZZINO001]

Returning to us, I eliminated the canister. The bike does much better, the gas responds faster the engine has a slightly higher pull. I noticed that the bike improves a lot after having made a little road without canister, probably the self-adaptive control unit tends to fix the carburetion.

 

[Raven]

probably the self-adaptive control unit tends to fix the carburetion.

It does not self adapt in any way. Only a PC-V with Auto-tune is self adaptive and it does it very well.

 

[GUZZINO001]

However, I knew that the ecu makes small self-adjustments, with each shutdown for example you feel the throttle body adjust. If so, could you explain?

 

[scott_m]

The ECU does not self adjust nor is it a learning system.

On a Stelvio, only the PC-V with an Autotune, is a learning system. I don’t think GTM has a fueling package for the V7-III.

Upon shutdown, the Stepper Motor returns to starting position. That’s what you are probably hearing or feeling.

 

[DeadEye]

However, it can, when the engine is cold and the O2 sensor has not reached operational temperature, apply a global table value increase in to the injector pulse width in terms of percentage like 1.1 (10%), 1.2 (20%) up to its stipulated limit of +\- 25%, and a tabled timing advance factor as well.

It is not intelligent nor able to deviate dynamically but rather uses established table values picked by existing measured conditions, to briefly apply these tabled changes.

We laymen interpret the mapping of operating parameters from those tables based on current readings as dynamic - the system can adapt within those supported parameters.

But indeed it is really not intelligently making up new values on the fly !
( and if it was capable of doing so, it would still all be based on formulas/calculation trying to get a certain result - like a air fuel mixture of x/1 )

Me - just making @#$& up

 

[DeadEye]

Hi and welcome,
Gezzz that’s a pita, I don’t know if the canister is the same place on the Racer as the Stone and yours is older.
Check under the bike just to the rear of the side stand.
You can go follow the tubes from there.

Good luck,
Don

 

[DeadEye]

I think I’ve seen references to opening the valve midway in the hose and removing the diaphragm, and putting it back together ?