V85TT Evap and Tip Info

[Warnzie]

And for reference, I have left the electronic valve in place hooked up Ofcoarse without any hoses going to it

 

[Warnzie]

Pics of what I have done…1st pic shows the elec valve in situ still plugged in and Ofcoarse once the tank goes on the line with TIP goes to LHS of the canister to tank as standard- this right???? and 2nd pic shows the line going to manifold cut and blocked.

 

[Warnzie]

Ok so having some trouble after the EVAP and TIP mod. Here’s the info on what I did,

I removed all the internals of the TIP, then place hose back on the LHS of the canister as original. I then removed the RHS hose completely from the canister, disconnected the hose from the electronic valve (both sides) and plugged that hose to TB. I am now getting the engine light on which when it idles (fine when running at pace) which alarm comes on and revs to 2k rpm…have I done it wrong????

Ok found my problem here, my own doing a M6 Allen head bolt fitted perfectly, but when I used a zip tie to hold it in, it looks like a did a bit tight and without realizing made the bolt slightly cocked which would of allowed a vacuum leak. All sorted now and I let idle for about 5mins and no “national disaster” alerts came up so think we solved it always feel like a when these things happen, but, there’s no such thing as mistakes, just a learning experience. But would love to know if the tip valve line (gutted) can still go to the LHS of the cannister?

 

[Warnzie]

sorry for all my posts here on this...Im a first time Guzzi owner so a little new for me...I can see that it would be best to run the fuel line with the TIP Valve (gutted) to atmosphere somewhere down the bike incase fuel did come out of here, and basically leave the charcoal canister in situ. Cap the 2 ends of the Bosch valve with vacuum caps for presentation, and ofcoarse plug the TB line....may I ask has anyone without issues just used a vacuum cap for the TB line pole on the TB? ofcoarse anywhere snipped and plugged on this line will work but for neatness it would look better Thanks for putting up with me thus far and look forward to your replies.

 

[Kurt999]

Late to the party. Just wrapped up a filler neck mod. Now addressing the EVAP can.
Capped the Manifold easy enough. Thinking capping both sides of the "gate valve" in the vacuum line off the canister.
Will that make the computer mad? I too covet the space the canister dwells. View attachment 26394

Is there a known value resistor that can be used at this plug in order to eliminate this purge valve?

 

[Nedmac briskov]

I did a full canister delete and ran the breather to the ground. As well as the crank vent hose. Both have auxiliary outlets into the intake. Throttle response and power band feels smoother to me, but not a big difference. No issues so far. Bike is at 33k miles.

 

[Grabcon]

I have a 2020 V85TT and it is my understanding that there should be a diagram showing the hose routing for the evaporator system. It should be located on the bottom of the seat pan. Mine does not have the stock seat, so no diagram. Would someone please be kind enough to take a picture and post it please. If there is more than one please do both. Remember it is for a 2020 V85TT.

thanks

 

[Jayell]

2020 E4.

 

[Grabcon]

Jayell. Thank you much. Now things are more clear as to what needs to be done.

 

[Rouliplanchiste]

Yes, sort of! Just for confirmation, that's the circled one that needs disconnect, right? Letting air flow in with less resistance?

 

[woodenhorse]

I think it's the other line. In post 19 of this thread Todd said: "You need to gut the tip valve, and plug the line off of the intake manifold. The rest of the system can stay in place."

tip valve = Pressure valve in that diagram. The other line (the one going from can to engine) seems to be the one.

 

[Frostbitten]

You need to gut the tip valve, and plug the line off of the intake manifold. The rest of the system can stay in place.

I must be an idiot. I have read and reread these posts a dozen times. do I plug both ends of the line off of the intake manifold?

 

[yrunvs]

Hey Frost, Unless I have missed something..... after rereading this thread it seems simple.

You pry apart the tip over valve and remove whatever is inside and then snap it back together and you are done with that (side) line.

On the other (side) line you simply remove or cut the line from the canister the canister can be left open to the air no plugging needed but the line leading away to the maniold needs to be plugged. Nothing else else needs to be done at this point except put the tank on and button up. That is my take I could be wrong.

 

[Frostbitten]

yrunvs, thanks for responding. I have read and reread and still have no clear understanding. I get the valve gut but it is not clear to me where to cut and plug, before or after the bosch plug that leads to the intake and if the hose is cut as suggested, which end is plugged or both?

 

[GTM®]

yrunvs, thanks for responding. I have read and reread and still have no clear understanding. I get the valve gut but it is not clear to me where to cut and plug, before or after the bosch plug that leads to the intake and if the hose is cut as suggested, which end is plugged or both?

The first post of this thread is now revised.

 

[yrunvs]

I take it pre E5 there was no Bosch valve and my post #74 is correct but with the E5 (with the bosch valve) you cut below/after the B valve and plug the line leading away and then leave the B valve/cut stub open?

 

[Frostbitten]

The first post of this thread is now revised.

Thank you thank you. I get it! Now if i could figure out my tank leak!

 

[yrunvs]

Thank you thank you. I get it! Now if i could figure out my tank leak!

So is my post#77 correct?

 

[Frostbitten]

I take it pre E5 there was no Bosch valve and my post #74 is correct but with the E5 (with the bosch valve) you cut below/after the B valve and plug the line leading away and then leave the B valve/cut stub open?

I am not an english major and I am no longer confused because GTM has clarified where to cut and plug, but reread your comment, "you cut below/after the B valve...."

 

[MTW]

First service done yesterday on the GTM V85TT, which included some exploratory investigation on the inner workings. Below is info on the evap and tip valve to eliminate the fuel tank pressurization and future running issues, like all other V7/V9s.
Tank removal is fairly easy. Under the key cover is two front bolts, and one in the rear, unplug the connectors/fuel lines, and off it comes. Info on the SAS Kit is HERE (which is also the same as the V7/V9s.)

1. Key cover, one bolt on each side, slide forward and lift.

View attachment 17842

2. This exposes the two tank bolts (one shown missing below), and the grey/green valve is the infamously notorious tip-over valve:

View attachment 17843

3. Fuel line and rear tank bolt arrowed:

View attachment 17844

4. L to R, fuel pump connector, breather/overflow and fuel line disconnect. For the fuel line, slide the yellow safety clip back, and depress the white tabs on each side with your fingers, and wiggle off. These all can be done prior to tank removal via easy access under the tank frame mount bracket shown.

View attachment 17845

5. With the tank removed looking forward, the tip valve shown apart and gutted (use heat from a hair dryer or eq, and a small screwdriver to pop apart, then can be snapped back together), and red arrow is the evap can. For E4 models, the line partially hidden (white arrowed) below can be removed and plugged with a bolt or eq. For E5 models, see below.

View attachment 17846

6. E5 models, It is recommended to remove the line below from the Bosch valve, and plug with a bolt or eq. The valve should remain in place/plugged in and the valve end left open to the atmosphere.

View attachment 35728

Thanks, easily fixed my problem with your post! Worth the $25 I sent to support this feed.