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V85TT Evap and Tip Info

GTM® said:
First service done yesterday on the GTM V85TT, which included some exploratory investigation on the inner workings. Below is info on the evap and tip valve to eliminate the fuel tank pressurization and future running issues, like all other V7/V9s.
Tank removal is fairly easy. Under the key cover is two front bolts, and one in the rear, unplug the connectors/fuel lines, and off it comes. Info on the SAS Kit is HERE (which is also the same as the V7/V9s.)

1. Key cover, one bolt on each side, slide forward and lift.

View attachment 17842

2. This exposes the two tank bolts (one shown missing below), and the grey/green valve is the infamously notorious tip-over valve:

View attachment 17843

3. Fuel line and rear tank bolt arrowed:

View attachment 17844

4. L to R, fuel pump connector, breather/overflow and fuel line disconnect. For the fuel line, slide the yellow safety clip back, and depress the white tabs on each side with your fingers, and wiggle off. These all can be done prior to tank removal via easy access under the tank frame mount bracket shown.

View attachment 17845

5. With the tank removed looking forward, the tip valve shown apart and gutted (use heat from a hair dryer or eq, and a small screwdriver to pop apart, then can be snapped back together), and red arrow is the evap can. For E4 models, the line partially hidden (white arrowed) below can be removed and plugged with a bolt or eq. For E5 models, see below.

View attachment 17846

6. E5 models, It is recommended to remove the line below from the Bosch valve, and plug with a bolt or eq. The valve should remain in place/plugged in and the valve end left open to the atmosphere.

View attachment 35728
Click to expand...
Thanks, easily fixed my problem with your post! Worth the $25 I sent to support this feed.
 
Trying to remove my tank. Do I just pull the hose from the "safety valve" (whatever it was that grey thing with a green band on the left (see attached picture) but once past the clamps, there's adhesive that JUST WONT GIVE. I almost damaged the part trying to pull the hose off.

Any suggestions?

Screenshot 2024-09-02 at 10.30.50 PM.png
 
GTM and folks, I have a 2021 V85TT centenario and I've added a full system exhaust (y-pipe, de-cat, muffler) and just installed my SAS plates and vacuum cap on the air box and just an UPMap (I have not installed an AT300). I used the Zard Full system map without a db-killer.

Symptoms: The map feels terrible at low RPMs and the bike is down right jumpy between 3-4k RPM. It's extremely cold to crank and doesn't want to run from a cold start. My fuel economy has gotten far worse as well.

The only thing I can think to do is put 3 vacuum caps on the SAS valve unit. Is there anything else I could do to help make the bike run smoother? It feels terrible and my morale is falling low. Any suggestions?
 
jfracht2013 said:
The only thing I can think to do is put 3 vacuum caps on the SAS valve unit. Is there anything else I could do to help make the bike run smoother? It feels terrible and my morale is falling low. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
James, do NOT put caps on the pump, no. This has nothing to do with your running issue, and will only cause future problems. To note, you did not purchase the GTM exhaust. These types of things are virtually impossible to diagnose.
All we can offer from there is to be sure your bike is 100% in service spec (as mods tend to compound running issues when not), and you have no exhaust leaks. All I can offer from there is to add the PC6 & AT-300 to help sort the fueling if your bike is 100%. On the thread HERE, it clearly shows that UpMap’s full system maps leave a lot to be desired. I've not ridden their map with a full system, but the dyno AFR data shows the holes and my results.
 
Thanks. I figured it out after working with it for a while. I'm sure your AT300-PC6 mapping is the bee's-knees, but I can't swing for it financially right now. So what I finally landed with is modifying the airbox like you showed, doing the SAS modification, putting the db-killer/baffle back in, and preventing evap from going back to the intake manifold like you showed. Now the bike feels so much smoother than stock, and with more power all across the RPM range than stock. I have an Arrow header and y-pipe, and a Leo Vince exhaust. For the record, I think your GTM stuff looks amazingly better though. Thank you for your help! You do a huge service to the Moto Guzzi community.
 
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