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V85TT Evap and Tip Info

I have been doing a lot of reading, and trying to learn as much as I reasonably am able.....I am puzzled by some of the reports regarding the evaporative canister system -- or -- more to the point, malfunctions of the evap canister system:

Some reports discuss a pressurized condition inside of the fuel tank -- as if the vapor component in a half-empty tank was allowed to heat up on a particularly warm and sunny day (often managed by opening the fuel cap to allow the pressure to escape).

Other reports mention a vacuum effect -- presumably caused when displacement air is not allowed to enter the tank to fill the space created when fuel is consumed.....creating a vacuum effect.

Do BOTH of these conditions potentially occur when the evap can system malfunctions?
 
"You can snip and plug the line partially hidden (arrowed) line to resolve the intake leak."

My question: plug both ends of this line after snipping?

(I have plugged the line to the intake manifold, and I have eliminated the tip-over valve.)
 
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My experience with this valve on my V7II is that it's main function is not a check valve. It is a pressure relief valve that works both ways: when the pressure, or vacuum, in the tank exceeds a certain level it will release some pressure to equalize the pressure. It does function as a check valve when liquid is involved, as when your bike tips over. The valve on my V7II was a "honker", or "farter". I replaced it with a new one (not cheap).
My Gen 2 V85TT is having venting problems, both pressure and vacuum. Maybe I'll install the old one from the V7 to see if it solves my issues.

Dan
 
I am stuck on the disconnect of the fuel line at the yellow clip. I have pushed it back and pulled to disconnect with no luck. Is this where the heat is needed? I am not to keen on heat on a fuel line, so think I may be misunderstanding the various posts and directions.

Mark
 
I'm in the process of doing this now on my 2021 but could use some help/guidance.
Tank is off, tipover valve guts removed, and snapped back together so I'm at paragraph 5 in Todd's original post.

"5. With the tank removed looking forward, the tip valve shown apart and gutted (use heat from a hair dryer or eq, and a small screwdriver to pop apart, then can be snapped back together), and red arrow is the evap can. You can snip and plug the line partially hidden (arrowed) line to resolve the intake leak."

I see the line referenced, when I cut that line do I plug both ends, the stub going to the evap can and the other end that'll lead to and through an electric in-line valve? The valve is not pictured in Todd's image so I'm attaching what I'm referring to. (I put a piece of blue tape on the hose at the evap can that I understand is to be cut.)




(I deleted my question and images regarding the rubber plug laying there, it goes on the seat pan.)
 
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Clifton said:
I see the line referenced, when I cut that line do I plug both ends, the stub going to the evap can and the other end that'll lead to and through an electric in-line valve? The valve is not pictured in Todd's image so I'm attaching what I'm referring to. (I put a piece of blue tape on the hose at the evap can that I understand is to be cut.)
Click to expand...
I would either run the left side of the rubber line that goes to the valve, direct to the evap cannister (and leave the valve plugged in to the wiring harness), or remove the left side line and vent to atmosphere (if you don't mind the fumes). Most important is to cap the intake line on the manifold, and at the air box.
 
Thanks but now I'm confused I thought the tip over valve was the green/gray plastic thingy (that mine has), which I've pried apart, removed the innards, then snapped back together?

 
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Clifton said:
Thanks but now I'm confused I thought the tip over valve was the green/gray plastic thingy (that mine has), which I've pried apart, removed the innards, then snapped back together?
Click to expand...
It is. I thought you said yours didn’t have it. I revised my post above. Leave as is, and my words above are still valid.
 
Clifton said:
I'm in the process of doing this now on my 2021 but could use some help/guidance.
Tank is off, tipover valve guts removed, and snapped back together so I'm at paragraph 5 in Todd's original post.

"5. With the tank removed looking forward, the tip valve shown apart and gutted (use heat from a hair dryer or eq, and a small screwdriver to pop apart, then can be snapped back together), and red arrow is the evap can. You can snip and plug the line partially hidden (arrowed) line to resolve the intake leak."

I see the line referenced, when I cut that line do I plug both ends, the stub going to the evap can and the other end that'll lead to and through an electric in-line valve? The valve is not pictured in Todd's image so I'm attaching what I'm referring to. (I put a piece of blue tape on the hose at the evap can that I understand is to be cut.)




(I deleted my question and images regarding the rubber plug laying there, it goes on the seat pan.)
Click to expand...
Yours is an E5 bike? What is the circled stuff? Not present on my '20 E4.

IMG-8154-1.jpg
 
If you cut and plug the line going from the evap to the intake, doesn’t that still leave the evap open? And if you’re gutting the valve, and disconnecting the evap can, why not just gut the whole evap can too?
 
Late to the party. Just wrapped up a filler neck mod. Now addressing the EVAP can.
Capped the Manifold easy enough. Thinking capping both sides of the "gate valve" in the vacuum line off the canister.
Will that make the computer mad? I too covet the space the canister dwells. 1662298286772
 
I need help. Like serious help! Lol. I absolutely cannot get that right front block off plate screw back on. I’ve dicked with it so much that I’m afraid that I’ll strip it out. Is there anybody in the Austin, TX area that can help a brother out? Will gladly compensate you for your time. Yeah, I know AF1 is up the road (and I bought the bike from them) but I’d rather not take it to the dealership at this point since I’m modifying it….unless you convince me otherwise! Bike is a ’21 V85TT. Thank you!!!!

Mike
 
Michael DiUbaldi said:
I need help. Like serious help! Lol. I absolutely cannot get that right front block off plate screw back on. I’ve dicked with it so much that I’m afraid that I’ll strip it out. Is there anybody in the Austin, TX area that can help a brother out? Will gladly compensate you for your time. Yeah, I know AF1 is up the road (and I bought the bike from them) but I’d rather not take it to the dealership at this point since I’m modifying it….unless you convince me otherwise! Bike is a ’21 V85TT. Thank you!!!!

Mike
Click to expand...
The right tool for the right job. These are you answer; amazon.com/Neiko-10243A-Socket-Metric-7-Piece/dp/B01LZFTS5D/
 
GTM® said:
The right tool for the right job. These are you answer; amazon.com/Neiko-10243A-Socket-Metric-7-Piece/dp/B01LZFTS5D/
Click to expand...
Thank you!! I placed an order for them. Hopefully that does the trick. Damn brake line is right in the way and now the bolt wants to cross thread going in.

* EDIT *

Received the tool in the mail. Worked LIKE A CHAMP! Had the bolt sorted out in about 10 min. Can’t wait to get everything put back together and hit the road this weekend.
 
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Of all the tools I own and have used over many years, nothing has been as useful as my quality tap and die set.

I cannot count how many threads I have chased back into proper condition on threaded holes, nuts and bolts.

It is the most basic of tools to own and I use it all the time.
 
Did the EVAP mod a few weeks ago. Major change in the bikes overall demeaner. Much better at low speed with out the continues vacuum leak.
 
Vagrant said:
I left my evap can in place and ran a hose down to vent the evap can. My hope, theory is it will help keep the gas smell out of the garage seeing as it still goes through the charcoal.
Click to expand...
How did this work for you fine sir?
 
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