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V85TT issues and Loose Bits

any idea if this is a world wide map and available in the US.
I would like to know this as well. Also, is this a free upgrade? I took my v85 in for the recalls, but the recall didn’t say anything about a new map. After about 90 minutes they called and said it was ready. I looked over my bike when I got home, I don’t think they touched it, but at least I have paper work to show that it had been done. I’m not a big fan of my local dealer and prefer to do my own work, but would like to get the new map if anyone in the US has any knowledge. Thanks for any info! Kris
 
What size Allen key is required? Indeed it's bigger than "standard" but don't know the exact size to order. With Covid lockdown, I can't take the bike anywhere now, so need to order and have the key mailed to me.

Thank you.
 
both shock bolts are #8, the rear axel is #10. I suggest you get a set on a 3/8 drive socket set and a regular set that contains these two sizes and the other popular. the day will come when you will need them. this is also not the time to buy "cheap".
Thank you.
 
Thanks for posting Chris. I’ll put this on our service checklist.

I just returned from my dealer - 2 things - a pipe came off the emissions sensor somewhere, & an inlet manifold gasket had come loose, creating a leak. There had been a warning flash up on the dash "Emergency-Urgent service" They managed to eventually trace it to the gasket, initially thinking it may be a faulty sensor. The other thing that has happened is that on a cold start it has occasionally coughed & backfired, but still started ok. Perhaps that is related to the loose pipe/hose.
Seems fine now.
Time will tell.
 
The other thing that has happened is that on a cold start it has occasionally coughed & backfired, but still started ok. Perhaps that is related to the loose pipe/hose.
Seems fine now.
Time will tell.

Did your dealer upload the most recent fuel map?
It's very possible your cold start problems are related to what you had going on, but with the original map I have a big dead spot just off idle when cold. It goes away once the bike warms up.
Next time I end up at the dealership I'm going to ask for the new map to be uploaded, while I've read it's supposed to make some changes to low speed fueling people have said they didn't notice much difference.
 
Did your dealer upload the most recent fuel map?
It's very possible your cold start problems are related to what you had going on, but with the original map I have a big dead spot just off idle when cold. It goes away once the bike warms up.
Next time I end up at the dealership I'm going to ask for the new map to be uploaded, while I've read it's supposed to make some changes to low speed fueling people have said they didn't notice much difference.
I don't think they did. I meant to ask about it actually but with the hassle they were having I kind of forgot. I'll see what difference there is now that those 2 things are sorted, & then talk to them next time.
 
Got an annoying rattle at approx 3000 rpm......Not under a load, but just cruising at that particular rpm. Under load, no problem. Whether riding it or just a mild rev to that point. Checked all {!} the fasteners and can't seem to locate it. Removed the hard cases, same deal. Thoughts? Just turned 1000 miles. It "sounds" like it's coming from mid-bike, down low, almost like it would be the skid plate.....
 
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Couple things:
  1. if you think it might be the skid plate, I would perhaps remove the plate to confirm.
  2. 3,000 RPM is on the very low end of the powerband on the V85 (or, just about any Guzzi motor, really). I would not be comfortable cruising there, personally. Do not be afraid to rev these things. Typical "cruising" RPM on my V11 is ~5K for me, and while my wife's V7III doesn't have a tach, it "feels" like it is happy in that range as well. I expect the V85 will fall in line there as well (haven't gotten mine yet, so can't say for sure)
__Jason
 
Couple things:
  1. if you think it might be the skid plate, I would perhaps remove the plate to confirm.
  2. 3,000 RPM is on the very low end of the powerband on the V85 (or, just about any Guzzi motor, really). I would not be comfortable cruising there, personally. Do not be afraid to rev these things. Typical "cruising" RPM on my V11 is ~5K for me, and while my wife's V7III doesn't have a tach, it "feels" like it is happy in that range as well. I expect the V85 will fall in line there as well (haven't gotten mine yet, so can't say for sure)
__Jason
Thanks JW. My dealer did what I consider to be a great job setting it up. I couldn't find a loose fastener anywhere before during and up to this point of approx 1100miles. I've had the skid plate off a couple times now to access the drain plug and it is well secured with locktite. Here's a better description.....on the center stand if you rev it easily up to the 3000rpm +/- threshold, there's a harmonic rattle that sounds just like a metal-to-metal {ala loose skid plate} sound. Disappears once you climb the rpm scale past that point. I've grabbed, wiggled the luggage, windscreen, exhaust, rear sub-section, and the problem of locating it escapes me. Before I "think" it's something loose, wanted to get a feel from others to see if there scoot does the same thing. On a side note, agree with lugging the engine at low rpm's.....and I would never do that. As a general rule I might upshift to a relaxed rpm in the 3-4K threshold when able to do so comfortably, but understand completely about excessive roll-on at low rpm and the associated risk of pre-ignition / detonation concerns.
 
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Skid plate, exhaust shields, windshield. The bike might feel fine at 3000 but it's lugging a bit. 3500 is really the lowest you should go.
Thanks Vagrant-
I don't want you to think I "cruise" at that rpm constantly, just when conditions of no-load are able to be had. She's a rev happy little thing and happiest at 4K up...........!!
 
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So.......what I ended up finding is nothing more than a problem I caused. I installed a PIAA low profile sport horn in place of that pathetic factory horn {that is ineffective at any distance beyond 2 yards} with a simple crash bar clamp mount and the body of the horn was vibrating on the red frame. Sheesh.....it only took me a week to find. Todd....you were right..."loose bits".......lol.
 
So.....to all with a V85TT and a CENTERSTAND. .......
If you have a rattle, check here as well. If you read my prior post, I chaulked it up to a horn I installed. After my post, the sound soon re-appeared in an ugly way, and getting worse. On the centerstand in the shop, I could not replicate the rattle, hence the non-discovery. By chance, I ran it on the sidestand, ran it up thru the revs and sure enough at approx 3K the stand went into a frenzy causing a god-awful rattle. Grab it, noise gone.
So, what I did was remove the factory shoulder bolts and had new ones made with a shorter shoulder length {for a bit more clamp ability}, and a slightly larger O.D. and viola, noise gone. I had my machinist make me a couple of bushings as well, to fit over any standard M10 bolt that you want to use. I bought a couple that were about another 1/4" in length, since the stockers aren't even long enough to fully engage the nut-crimp. Oh, and you can't get the factory bolts separately, you have to buy the whole centerstand kit!!! WTF......
 
Those of you with the V85 do check between your legs that your nuts are tight...

....Yup, the nuts that hold the rider seat stop onto the seat!

both vibrated loose on mine recently leaving the stop just loose on the seat, thankfully it didn't fall off so no damage, just need to find a couple of nuts to replace them... and Loctite them on this time! :-)
 
those of you with the V85TT Travel, the panniers metal latch which swings round to lock the pannier when you turn the key can fall off and hopefully stays in the pannier when you open it.

Without the latch the pannier isn't locked, so if you don't realise that it has fallen off and you close the lid and lock it with the key, it won't be locked !

The latch is attached to the lock with a M5 screw and a couple of plain and spring type washers, Retrieve those and apply some Loctite, that should do it. I hope!
 
Not sure if this has previously been commented on but I also found my rear brake caliper had seized on the floating pins, so take your rear caliper off and check it still moves side to side on its pins.

Hi Neighbor, you posted a few months back about seized rear brake caliper slide pin. I noticed my rear brake function was dropping off. Had a look and found the caliper would not slide as required. On disassembly found one pin rusted and 100% seized and this was caused by the rubber boot that keeps moisture out was not properly located into its recess. Checked the parts manual to find the slide pins are not available separately and a new rear caliper is the only option. HOWEVER, everything looked identical to my 2021 DR650 Suzuki front caliper. Popped my DR caliper off to check and it is the exact same Nissin caliper, and I thought it was Brembo front and rear! Ordered the new pin and rubber boot from Suzuki, 2 days and $32 AUD later rear brakes are back to new again!
 
Just met with another rider on a 2020 V85TT with just under 16,000 km's (10,000 mls) and his rear caliper was also seized on the slide pins.
 
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