I have been working on all my bikes since 1961. I have learned the hard way that a drop of Loctite on all bolts with or without nuts. No matter how smooth YOU think they run smooth but there will be vibration. Also In the Navy, I was a Torpedoman for 22 years. If we removed a nylon lock nut from our equipment/weapons the nut went into a bucket. It would be replaced by a new nut if it was not exposed to heat ( like your exhaust.}. Replace your on your bike with a lock washer( Split) and some Loctite ( also other good brands on Amazon)
Please post a photo (or video) of the light(s) that flash(es). There are a set of lights at the top of the dash display that flash at a programmable maximum RPM setting, but the check engine light should not flash even if you rev the engine to its true redline.
Can I suggest you go a stage further and actually remove the bolts top and bottom and take the shock out. At each end you will find a steel outer washer and a rubber seal washer on each face. Remove these and you'll find (probably
a bone dry ball socket. Full this up with grease such that you can stick your finger in the bolt hole and turn the ball in all directions (albeit quite stiffly) . Then reassemble with more grease, re-fit the shock and tighten bolts to 50Nm both ends. These bone dry ball pivots were subject to a warranty claim , whereby Guzzi provided a complete new rear shock assembly, after I reported squeaking from it when you bounce the rear end .The warning lights can be set manually (using the MODE button)to flash when you hit certain revs. This should have been done by the supplying dealer on first delivery, to help with limiting the revs for running it in. Have you checked this setting on your bike yourself?. It may be that you just need to up the limit (or switch them off completely) yourself.
i had CEl come on/off few times before re-map was done. I found could reset by leaving bike on a charger overnight. Just random? not sure. I suspected my O2 sensors may have been the issue & pulled them out to check. LH one was 'dirty' compared to RH. My issue was the map & bad / intermittent fueling . Might be worth a look at O2 sensors if can as a bad signal to cpu migt(?) cause what your seeing. obviously if can check cpu codes easiers to ID prob. either dealer of guages can get in shop here. pulling the O2 sensors required VERY small fingers, long pointy things to get the connector off the frame then easy. put some anti-sieze on before reinstall. HTH.
Thanks for the pointer towards the O2 sensors. I guess there is some logic. Higher revs and gas flow expose a flaw. Definitely worth checking.
I tried to fix/check as was planning to service bike myself as dealer is a long way away. Things just kept getting worse until as well as CEL's i got a red nuke flash re urgent attention. so i took bike to dealer to sort hopefully under warrenty. New heads/base gaskets & new MG updated map & I have a bike as one would expect out of factory. mine was an early '21 build that I bought NOS in '23. Dealer & MG who got involved to sort 'strange' stuff offered free 10K km service. i'm at ~7500km atm just did oil change (I do them at 2.5k myself). valves little tappy atm. but raining here now so not riding much atm. other than a little tappy & still a little detonation bike runs sweet. no more bucking bronco/kangaroo hopping at constant 2-3% throttle eg 60kph in 4th or 80kmp in 5th. I ride looking for rose bushes mostly. My R1 / kwaka900 days are long past. bike cruises nicely at 110-130 but uses lots more fuel at higher speeds. I use Bp98 and run mostly ~4.2l -4.4l/100km. but does go up to 5-6 when having fun. range says ~620km on a full tank, I refill @~500 but have done 550 with 2-3l left in tank AFTER gauge & lights all say empty.
