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California 1400 hanging throttle

2016 Eldo with Agostini slip ons. Otherwise stock. On two occasions the while idling thenrom suddenly went to red line. Had to switch the engine off to stop it. Ideas?
 
I replied to a thread earlier re the clutch switch and thought I would follow up although it sounds like you guys a probably all across this. Whilst my Clutch Switch was faulty I experienced a SERVIE code on the dash. At the same time my Cruise Control would not engage. Since replacing the Clutch Switch and resetting the code, my cruise control has now engaged as normal.
 
Looks I'm having the same issue, couldn't test the cruise control , because I already identified the switch to be broke (no spring action, or click sound). Waiting on parts at this point....found a switch like it on amazon. Will update, after the repair. At this point the swich will cost me $8 US. I have to reuse the old three pin connector, since the switch comes without it. Cable colors are like the MG replacement part. Did you have the red alarm light on?
 
Last edited:
No warning lights at all. Been at the dealer 2 months now. Waiting to hear back from Italy.
 
My experience is the bold text "SERVICE" message on the dash with a red alarm (triangle) to the right of the dash. If you want to test if your clutch diagnostic switch is faulty, I would suggest the following. Start your guzzi in gear. If the bike jumps forward, the switch is faulty as it is designed to mitigate this. The correct function is that the bike should not start unless your clutch is full pulled in. Upon replacement of the switch, and clearing of the alarm, your Cruise Control should reengage as normal.
After I identified the damage to the clutch switch, it took about 200 klms of riding before the warning light came on; so, if your warning light is not on now, it may come on in the next couple of hundred k's.
 
Russ Rowbotham said:
My experience is the bold text "SERVICE" message on the dash with a red alarm (triangle) to the right of the dash. If you want to test if your clutch diagnostic switch is faulty, I would suggest the following. Start your guzzi in gear. If the bike jumps forward, the switch is faulty as it is designed to mitigate this. The correct function is that the bike should not start unless your clutch is full pulled in. Upon replacement of the switch, and clearing of the alarm, your Cruise Control should reengage as normal.
After I identified the damage to the clutch switch, it took about 200 klms of riding before the warning light came on; so, if your warning light is not on now, it may come on in the next couple of hundred k's.
Click to expand...
My warning light was already on, however the bike ran normal, I identified the switch issue AFTER the service and red light alarm came on. At this point I disconnected the switch and took it off the bike. Could not test the in gear start or cruise control function, bcause I almost never use cruise control, or start my bike in gear. Will see when everything is back together. How can you reset the red alarm light and it's related trouble code?
 
Update: the hanging throttle problem was becoming worrying. Especially with a hot bike in heavy traffic. The other day the motorcycle did not start in the morning due to lack of battery (I use the motorcycle daily). I have changed the Yuasa battery and have taken the opportunity to put in the one with the highest amperage. Surprise!!: the hanging throttle problem has disappeared. It doesn't seem like a coincidence. My theory: it would be an electrical problem. A low amperage would force the control unit to increase energy production in the alternator, increasing the revolutions. When hot, activating the oil cooler fan would further increase energy needs.
 
David Rodríguez said:
Update: the hanging throttle problem was becoming worrying. Especially with a hot bike in heavy traffic. The other day the motorcycle did not start in the morning due to lack of battery (I use the motorcycle daily). I have changed the Yuasa battery and have taken the opportunity to put in the one with the highest amperage. Surprise!!: the hanging throttle problem has disappeared. It doesn't seem like a coincidence. My theory: it would be an electrical problem. A low amperage would force the control unit to increase energy production in the alternator, increasing the revolutions. When hot, activating the oil cooler fan would further increase energy needs.
Click to expand...
Yes, this is not a surprise. Well documented here that low battery health/voltage causes many different running issues. Thanks for your input.
 
David Rodríguez said:
Update: the hanging throttle problem was becoming worrying. Especially with a hot bike in heavy traffic. The other day the motorcycle did not start in the morning due to lack of battery (I use the motorcycle daily). I have changed the Yuasa battery and have taken the opportunity to put in the one with the highest amperage. Surprise!!: the hanging throttle problem has disappeared. It doesn't seem like a coincidence. My theory: it would be an electrical problem. A low amperage would force the control unit to increase energy production in the alternator, increasing the revolutions. When hot, activating the oil cooler fan would further increase energy needs.
Click to expand...
Thats great. My mind would always go to the throttle control or the valve. What exact battery are your using currently ?
 
I have faced the same issue (hanging throttle), i went through a lot of checks and got solved .. then a year later it is back again. I'll share what i did the first time:

There was an air leak in the H Pipe, welded and repaired .. the issue got slightly fixed..

Thoroughly Cleaned the Throttle body and air box and intake ... The issue got slightly fixed

Check the clutch sensor.. nothing to report

Changed the battery with higher cranking power and engine ran way better ..

Checked the valve clearance and it was off ... Readjusted then the issue got solved completely..even the miss firing i had was gone

Few months... And probably 5K km later Battery got weak and the issue of hanging throttle comes and go ..

After reading this thread from 2014, I will check the temp sensor, battery, valve clearance adjustments and check clutch senor and hopefully that will solve the problem..i Will make sure to update you guys as soon as I can ..

Keep your hopes up ;)
 
Quarter said:
I have faced the same issue (hanging throttle), i went through a lot of checks and got solved .. then a year later it is back again. I'll share what i did the first time:

There was an air leak in the H Pipe, welded and repaired .. the issue got slightly fixed..

Thoroughly Cleaned the Throttle body and air box and intake ... The issue got slightly fixed

Check the clutch sensor.. nothing to report

Changed the battery with higher cranking power and engine ran way better ..

Checked the valve clearance and it was off ... Readjusted then the issue got solved completely..even the miss firing i had was gone

Few months... And probably 5K km later Battery got weak and the issue of hanging throttle comes and go ..

After reading this thread from 2014, I will check the temp sensor, battery, valve clearance adjustments and check clutch senor and hopefully that will solve the problem..i Will make sure to update you guys as soon as I can ..

Keep your hopes up ;)
Click to expand...
Quarter said:
I have faced the same issue (hanging throttle), i went through a lot of checks and got solved .. then a year later it is back again. I'll share what i did the first time:

There was an air leak in the H Pipe, welded and repaired .. the issue got slightly fixed..

Thoroughly Cleaned the Throttle body and air box and intake ... The issue got slightly fixed

Check the clutch sensor.. nothing to report

Changed the battery with higher cranking power and engine ran way better ..

Checked the valve clearance and it was off ... Readjusted then the issue got solved completely..even the miss firing i had was gone

Few months... And probably 5K km later Battery got weak and the issue of hanging throttle comes and go ..

After reading this thread from 2014, I will check the temp sensor, battery, valve clearance adjustments and check clutch senor and hopefully that will solve the problem..i Will make sure to update you guys as soon as I can ..

Keep your hopes up ;)
Click to expand...
Solution to the high idle problem when going slowly...
Scuse me for little english.
The particular arrangement of the air-cooled engine means that the hot air from the engine hits the intake lung, placed behind the cylinders, and heats it.
Reading the intake air temperature data with the Guzzidiag diagnosis with an ambient temperature of 30 degrees it is easy to find that the IAT sensor reads over 50 degrees, especially when you are going slowly and the engine oil temperature rises above 110 degrees.
The NTC resistance of the IAT sensor does not have a linear behavior and with such high temperatures it takes on a value tending to zero, significantly leans the carburetion, causing a further increase in the engine oil temperature.
The control unit doesn't like it and raises the idle to protect the engine.

Solution: cut the purple-black wire #2 on the integrated MAP + IAT sensor located in the suction chamber and insert a 150 Ohm 1/2 watt fixed resistor for electronic circuits in series with the cut wire.

In this way the control unit, even with very hot air sucked in, will light a maximum of 150 Ohm of the fixed resistance, that correspond to an air temperature of about 30 degrees.
Disconnect the battery before making the change!
The solution is also valid when installing modified IATs such as the SmartIAT Belinassu or similar.
Problem solved, which reoccurs with oil temperatures above 145 degrees but at those temperatures, which can only be reached by voluntarily keeping the motorbike warm, on and off for many minutes, it is correct for the control unit to raise the idle to protect the engine.
Remember that the bike must be fine, the valves adjusted correctly and the control unit defects eliminated.
Furthermore, the use of the rain map on slow and tortuous routes helps not to overheat the engine which will be even happier if you can run it above 3000 rpm.
Good luck everyone
 
tigregialla said:
Solution to the high idle problem when going slowly...
Scuse me for little english.
The particular arrangement of the air-cooled engine means that the hot air from the engine hits the intake lung, placed behind the cylinders, and heats it.
Reading the intake air temperature data with the Guzzidiag diagnosis with an ambient temperature of 30 degrees it is easy to find that the IAT sensor reads over 50 degrees, especially when you are going slowly and the engine oil temperature rises above 110 degrees.
The NTC resistance of the IAT sensor does not have a linear behavior and with such high temperatures it takes on a value tending to zero, significantly leans the carburetion, causing a further increase in the engine oil temperature.
The control unit doesn't like it and raises the idle to protect the engine.

Solution: cut the purple-black wire #2 on the integrated MAP + IAT sensor located in the suction chamber and insert a 150 Ohm 1/2 watt fixed resistor for electronic circuits in series with the cut wire.

In this way the control unit, even with very hot air sucked in, will light a maximum of 150 Ohm of the fixed resistance, that correspond to an air temperature of about 30 degrees.
Disconnect the battery before making the change!
The solution is also valid when installing modified IATs such as the SmartIAT Belinassu or similar.
Problem solved, which reoccurs with oil temperatures above 145 degrees but at those temperatures, which can only be reached by voluntarily keeping the motorbike warm, on and off for many minutes, it is correct for the control unit to raise the idle to protect the engine.
Remember that the bike must be fine, the valves adjusted correctly and the control unit defects eliminated.
Furthermore, the use of the rain map on slow and tortuous routes helps not to overheat the engine which will be even happier if you can run it above 3000 rpm.
Good luck everyone
Click to expand...
Excellent post, thanks for sharing your experience.
Logical explanation and solution.
Can you post a photo?

Best Regards
 
tomore said:
Excellent post, thanks for sharing your experience.
Logical explanation and solution.
Can you post a photo?

Best Regards
Click to expand...
Thank you very much. It is the best explanation I ever read. It can be out of place, but in my case it got solved changing the battery.
 
These threads are from 2015, so just checking in to see if there has been any further updates on the hanging throttle issue. I have a 2014 1400 Cali, and the hanging throttle issue is now causing me a problem. I have contacted several MG agents here is Australia, and no one seems to know what the problem is. I have been advised to have the ECU reset as a first step, but am hoping feedback from experience MG owners may be able to narrow down the source of the problem.
 
I did several of the ( earlier ) suggestions that were posted here to no avail. In the meantime I bought Todds fueling upgrade kit that comes with a reflash tool to which I was able to reset the Throttle positioning sensor ( TPS) and that was the end of it.
 
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