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How To Recover The 5 Digit Security Code

I have been a little scared of getting in there to mess with it.
Me too - I'm hiding behind the excuse that if it ain't broke - don't 'break' it.

I know, I know. It's already been pointed out this not really a solution, but after reading all this discussion, and with all the other s**t going on in the world right now, the last thing I need is a broken bike (that I broke). I'm gonna stick my head in the sand a bit longer.
 
The personal code is not for the key, it's for the electronic dashboard. Once set the personal code can be reset by using both keys using the procedure as described in manual.
Keys can only be registered to belong to the bike by using the personal code. The initial manufactures code is 00000.
If both keys can be used to start the bike, then both are registered and belong to the bike.

the rubber tag has nothing to do with the personal key, the tag contains the key code for cutting the key.

So, first check that both keys can start the bike. If they do, they belong (registered) to the bike.
Next, follow the procedure in the manual to reset the personal key, and write the 5 digit number down, in the bike's manual, and keep it in a safe place.
Hope that helps.
Good explanation. WTF didn't I get an email notification this thread had new comments? Hmmm. Ok, well, I still only have ONE key (the recently found 2nd key from dealer). With that handicap, how do I get back to having a pair of working keys??

Jim
 
You have finally broken through my personal wall of ignorance! Not an easy task.... And thank you for making this a sticky.
Turns out both my bikes (they were originally sold by two different Canadian dealers) have had the last 5 digits of the serial number programmed as the user code. I have been a little scared of getting in there to mess with it.
How did you determine this?
 
Good explanation. WTF didn't I get an email notification this thread had new comments? Hmmm. Ok, well, I still only have ONE key (the recently found 2nd key from dealer). With that handicap, how do I get back to having a pair of working keys??

Jim

Jim,

Don’t be a “Helpless Horatio”. It’s already WELL DOCUMENTED right here.

YOU HAVE TO READ!

Post #54 tells you EXACTLY how things work and how you can get what you need.
 
Post #54 says the user code code must be known to make any others, if it was originally set. Mine evidently was. I have the 2nd key, which does NOT prompt for a code, therefore it must've been already programmed, right? IOW, bike just starts with the 2nd key, no prompt. So if I buy another blank, and have it cut, I still won't know the code without trial and error. That's what I'm trying to avoid. Oh well, I'll give it a try. Just hope the dealer wasn't feeling cryptic the day my bike was setup....
 
Post #54 says the user code code must be known to make any others, if it was originally set. Mine evidently was.

Correct

I have the 2nd key, which does NOT prompt for a code, therefore it must've been already programmed, right?

Correct

IOW, bike just starts with the 2nd key, no prompt.

This is because it is already programmed into the dash as a recognized transponder code. It's not about the key, it's about the transponder code.

So if I buy another blank, and have it cut, I still won't know the code without trial and error.

Correct.

That's what I'm trying to avoid. Oh well, I'll give it a try. Just hope the dealer wasn't feeling cryptic the day my bike was setup....

In order to avoid issues, you need either 2 different transponder coded key, previously already programmed to the dash.

OR

1 previously programmed key AND the User Code which has already been programmed into your dash.


If you don't know the code, you can try to guess it. There are 99,999 possible numbers. It will take you about 6 weeks of entry tries. Frequently, it is set to the last 5 numeric numbers of the VIN, or the previous owners SSN, or the same as the Maintenance Code for that particular model.

If all else fails, you can remove the dash and send it to Carmo here in the USA, and they can send the dash to their facility in Holand for reading out the code.

carmousa.com
 
Ok, all of this is clear. One last question. It appears it's possible to clone a working key. Without cracking the dash. What exactly would be the reason NOT to do this if it saves hundreds to achieve the same end (a working 2nd key)?
 
PLEASE READ POST 54.

It’s right there.

5th and 6th paragraphs

If you want 2 CLONED keys, then have at it but you will not be able to rectify the dash issues that way.

If for any reason, (and it has happened before), if that particular transponder code gets lost by the dash, then you will have no working key at all. Neither cloned key will work because to the dash, they are the same key, indistinguishable from each other.

Ok, I’m done repeating the same info over and over. People need to read.
 
Last edited:
PLEASE READ POST 54.

It’s right there.

5th and 6th paragraphs

If you want 2 CLONED keys, then have at it but you will not be able to rectify the dash issues that way.

If for any reason, (and it has happened before), if that particular transponder code gets lost by the dash, then you will have no working key at all. Neither cloned key will work because to the dash, they are the same key, indistinguishable from each other.

Ok, I’m done repeating the same info over and over. People need to read.
"If for any reason, (and it has happened before), if that particular transponder code gets lost by the dash, then you will have no working key at all. Neither cloned key will work because to the dash, they are the same key, indistinguishable from each other."

This answers my question. I have not heard of this happening before, nor run across it in the last two weeks of searching the internet. Sounds like you have though. If it HAS happened multiple times, sounds like a major problem in the system's design/implementation. As this isn't just a Guzzi issue, but an OEM issue, over multiple models and manufacturers, I'm surprised it's not been fixed by a recall.

Guess I'll be taking the cloning route in that it at least pushes the cost of dash reprogramming off into the hopefully far future. That is if I can't guess whatever the usercode is set to via trial and error of course. Thanks for your patience Scott.

Jim
 
It’s not common but there are 1,000,000 ways Moto Guzzi owners do everything in their power to make voltage issues, battery issues, ground strap issues, etc

These are the events that can cause a code to get “lost” in the dash.

The thing NOBODY listens to and I say it all the time is that Moto Guzzi motorcycles DO NOT like erratic electrical power. They do not tolerate voltage irregularities well. It causes all sorts of gremlins.

I just wanted to put to bed, all the incorrect information about how this immobilizer system in the dash, truly works.

Thank you and you are most welcome Jim.

Good Luck!
 
I've bought a used 2016 eldorado from a far away dealer and it came with one key and the owners manual. I searched the owners manual to see if maybe the 5 digit code was wrote somewhere in it but no luck. I'm not currently having any issues, but I would like to have a extra key or two. I suppose I could try entering the last 5 digits of my VIN, and if that doesn't work it looks like my only option is sending off to carmo. Bummer.
 
There are common ones to try. The service code for your model, the last 5 of the VIN, 12345, 54321, 00000, and a few others discussed elsewhere here.

You are right to be thinking about this now instead of when it potentially could really bite you in the butt.
 
I've bought a used 2016 eldorado from a far away dealer and it came with one key and the owners manual. I searched the owners manual to see if maybe the 5 digit code was wrote somewhere in it but no luck. I'm not currently having any issues, but I would like to have a extra key or two. I suppose I could try entering the last 5 digits of my VIN, and if that doesn't work it looks like my only option is sending off to carmo. Bummer.

Good luck. Because, that is all you need to get the right number. 1:100,000 odds. Considering that it will take you about 30 seconds to try each number and maybe you work at it four hours each day, then you are only about 209 days away from getting the right number! To monetize this let's pay yourself $10/hour (pretty low rate actually) and we can see that this method could cost $2090.00. Sending your dash off to Carmo could cost $400.00. Which makes more sense?
 
Thanks guys,and yes roadventure, $400 is certainly a whole lot cheaper. That will be the route I'll take if needed.

So last night and this morning I read through this entire thread again, and, read through my manual in the key program section. And just to be up front with everyone I don't profess to be the sharpest tool in the shed lol! Sometimes it takes me doing something hands-on a couple times to have a good understanding of it.
But anyways... I've just finished turning on the key in my eldorado, went to the menu section and selected "change the code". It asked me to enter a new code. I entered the last 5 digits of my VIN and turned the key off per my manuals instruction. I then turned the key back on and started the bike. It started up as normal (thank goodness lol). Next I shut the engine off, went back into the menu and selected "change the code" and this time it asked me for the old code. So I exited out of the menu and turned the key off.
So...my assumption is that I can buy a new key blank from a dealer, have the key cut, and then program the transponder in it myself since I have the code? And again, I do apologize if I'm completely off base and the info is right in front of my face and I'm not seeing or understanding it.
Thanks in advance for any input or advice.
 
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