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Oil pressure light comes on at Idle with hot oil!

Sgrabin said:
10 hours labor @$60 per hour later the issue was fixed at Kissell’s. They were very nice and gave me a nice new BMW loaner bike for the day. HOWEVER, After riding 150 miles straight home I realized the fuckers left my side stand loose! I’ve got about 1” of play that wasn’t there before they tore into it.. Now I’m sure I’ll end up fighting them about paying or reimbursement to a LOCAL shop that can fix that.
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If you approach the issue appropriately -- i.e., minus the "foxtrotting" -- it's likely they will, too.

OTOH, do you not have in your tool box -- or can easily add -- the appropriate wrench and loctite to do this at home? It would then seem worth an inquiry, self-help fix, and that's that.

Bill
 
Follow up since I didn’t post this back in the Summer. Kissell fixed the issue no charge and they were very nice about everything. Makes a good 6 hour round trip ride for me, and there’s a great cigar shop nearby while I wait for service! Little expensive as dealer service tends to be, but I will use them again for any repairs I don’t want to tackle myself.
 
guzziwranger said:
Hi all, thought I would post my findings with this problem recently for your reference in case you come across this issue. I have read this similar problem before on this forum but did not find a conclusive answer from the threads. I have a 2012 8V sport. Had it since new and just ticked over 45000Km's. Recently I started to notice that when the oil was very hot and stopped at traffic lights, low oil pressure light would intermittently come on after a say 10 seconds of idling? I asked around and nobody had the perfect answer locally and there was some discussion on the guzzitech forum but nothing conclusive. So I took the oil pressure switch off and tested with a hand calibrator and it was switching at its designed setpoint of approx. 3.5PSI or there abouts? So I went a little further hoping I might find something in the bottom end rather than conceding it must be the pump? I took the oil pan off and the oil pick ups, then the flange holding the oil relief valve and oil radiator thermostatic valve. What I found was that the second gasket on the top of the flange that mates with the bottom of the crankcase had partially failed around the main oil gantry to the top of the engine and was bleeding oil back into the sump through the failed flange. So at low RPM with hot oil, the pressure was very low at the top of the engine and the oil pressure warning light would come on and then a couple of seconds later the Aladins lamp would come on the digtal dash.
So I replaced the flange gasket and the pan gasket and torqued up to spec (lucky Tom Newell had both in stock! Thanks Tom....) , replaced the filter and refilled with oil..... presto, back up to normal oil pressure at the top of the engine at idle and no more low pressure oil light!

Cost me $25.00 for a couple of gaskets from Tom (and a whole weekend performing a lobotomy)

Anyway enjoy! Glad I nailed it.

Cheers Paul.
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My new to me Norge 1200 exhibits the same symptoms as others have noted. Once hot the can and angle come on at low rpms and off again at 3+. Very unnerving for a new bike owner. I’m headed towards a gasket purchase. I believe I have the tools required, can’t wait to tell the Mrs my new toy needs work already.
 
Captincvmn said:
My new to me Norge 1200 exhibits the same symptoms as others have noted. Once hot the can and angle come on at low rpms and off again at 3+. Very unnerving for a new bike owner. I’m headed towards a gasket purchase. I believe I have the tools required, can’t wait to tell the Mrs my new toy needs work already.
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Pay attention to the thread for procedure. Don't forget the screws up in the oil filter recess.
 
Tomorrow is the day. Fresh gaskets and filter are arriving and I have four liters of Quartz 10w60. I’ll set up my camera and video some as I go. I’ve looked through YouTube and found few vids of oil pan dropping and I don’t recall seeing any of the spacer gasket. Editing will be the hardest part, my laptop is painfully slow. I’m currently waiting in drive through line for pizza so I’m going back to page one to reread and refresh.
 
I’m deep into it….
Only thing I found was a possible tear in the gasket but no huge smoking gun. This gasket is as brittle as potato chips. The large split I did when I removed it, the upper oil passage though had a fractured edge seemingly at removal. I am trying to video as I go and remember which bolts go where. Outer rim bolts are all the same, four at oil filter shorter but all the same. Front spacer bolts shorter than the rear spacer bolts. I really should measure their length and document it.

IMG_4399.jpegIMG_4400.jpegIMG_4401.jpegimage.jpg
 
So when you’re a noob and you don’t know better you order the wrong pan gasket. I made the gray one with gasket material and by tracing the remnants of the old gasket and pan. I do have the critical spacer gasket though.
 

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Rode this morning 6:30am-8:30am, leisurely ride. Still getting my sea legs. Happy to report ZERO oil lights or triangles and no leaks observed around the oil pan.

Thank you gentle peoples for the guidance and knowledge contained herein.

8:30pm edit:
Well crapola. This morning’s ride was all done at 30mph plus with some north of 70mph. All was good. Tonight I went on a neighborhood ride. All slow stuff. 25 mph and probably averaged 15mph. Block to block stop/turn/go. Went up into a new section of houses to practice friction zone slow left right U-turns where there is lots of space and no traffic.
Damn oil light and triangle came on again at 1500-idle.
Now I swear I torqued everything well, cleaned mating surfaces, made sure gaskets were flat before snugging bolts and then torqued the bolts all in three stages of torques 40/60/88 in/pounds.
What’s my next step? Find the oil pressure sensor and T it to a gauge so I can get an accurate reading? Buy an aftermarket oil cooler radiator so I get chilly lube? (I’m not impressed with the “pocket” the oil cooler seems to be in.
I’m no race car driver, I’m prone to ride on the slow side. Suggestions?
 
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Possible the sensor is the culprit. Usually it works correctly or not at all. You may be the lucky one with a sensor that requires higher pressure to keep the contact open. This question hasn't been asked, what motor oil are you using?
 
Just got home from a half hour ride. No slow stuff. Average 40mph. Pull into garage and oil light comes on with triangle (they’re always together) 1500 rpm=light 2000rpm=no light I stopped half way and turned around. Everything was fine. Once it gets heat soaked the pressure becomes an issue. (Damn wind is blowing across the roads, makes me twitchy and nervous)
 
Captincvmn said:
Just got home from a half hour ride. No slow stuff. Average 40mph. Pull into garage and oil light comes on with triangle (they’re always together) 1500 rpm=light 2000rpm=no light I stopped half way and turned around. Everything was fine. Once it gets heat soaked the pressure becomes an issue. (Damn wind is blowing across the roads, makes me twitchy and nervous)
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I recommend you don't ride until you verify you have adequate oil pressure. Either replace the sensor, or as you said earlier add a T fitting and a gauge.
 
So riddle me this:
Riding, it’s showing oil light combo, light is on at idle, rev to 2k light goes off.
Now, kill engine. Doesn’t matter how. Key or button.
Restart engine within a few seconds letting system pressure bleed to zero. Now light is off at idle. Rev to 2k, back to idle. Rev to 3k, back to idle. Still no oil light. Sit and idle for 30 seconds. No light.
This is after a half hour ride with light on at every idle time.

Is there a circuit that ignores low pressure until a certain speed after start like the ABS doesn’t work until one rotation?
 
Captincvmn said:
Is there a circuit that ignores low pressure until a certain speed after start like the ABS doesn’t work until one rotation?
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No. Oil pressure sensors work realtime. As soon as you start the motorcycle and the pressure rises, the switch opens and the light or warning indicator, goes out.

In general, the default setting of the sensor is to be “Closed”, thereby completing the circuit and illuminating the dash light. As the pressure rises, it “Opens” the circuit and breaks the continuity and the light goes out.
 
Well that’s concerning.
So if the bike is key on, kill switch on, not running I’d assume the circuit would be active and also have continuity from a “working” switch causing the triangle/can (can I say trican?) to illuminate.

I’m theorizing that if the wire has a bad connection then it’ll act as though it has pressure but once grounding out (possible leaking switch?) it’ll act as low pressure.
 
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