The Ryker wheel nut is probably 64mm, so the Ryker socket does not fit. Now have a 65mm socket, its huge!
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V100 Tech Talk
- Thread starterGTM®
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- v100 v100 mandello v100s
Omg
Ridiculous
Ridiculous
Jan Cermak
Tuned and Synch'ed
Did midterm change oil (first was after 1500 km) now almost 5000 km more.
Very satisfied with result, on magnet just micro metal fragments, very soft mud like and small ammount. The oil is still transparent and clear. The oil consumption was close to zero.
Hats off to Guzzi as it is first engine with common oil for engine, gearbox and clutch.
P.S. my dealer use Castrol oil, quickshifter sometimes hard, from 1 - 2 almost useless. I put now into my V100 Motul 7100 and to be honest, gearchanges much much softer and surprise, I was able to quickshift in low revs from 1-4 without any problem....
Very satisfied with result, on magnet just micro metal fragments, very soft mud like and small ammount. The oil is still transparent and clear. The oil consumption was close to zero.
Hats off to Guzzi as it is first engine with common oil for engine, gearbox and clutch.
P.S. my dealer use Castrol oil, quickshifter sometimes hard, from 1 - 2 almost useless. I put now into my V100 Motul 7100 and to be honest, gearchanges much much softer and surprise, I was able to quickshift in low revs from 1-4 without any problem....
Thanks for updating!
I wasn’t worried about Moto Guzzi quality myself, although interesting to follow up as MG is a new brand for me.
Could be different build philosophies, with different praxis of run-in of motors, different oils for run in etc…I don’t know.
First service at 950miles/1500km, when other brands have 600miles/1000km as an example.
Magnet plugs may seem scary when seeing small metal particles, but to be honest why shouldn’t those particles be present in motors without magnet plugs?
The difference is only that it feels better if not seeing them
Plus the magnet is actually better as it captures the particles instead of letting them keep flushing around and creating wear inside the engine.
Jan Cermak
Tuned and Synch'ed
I prefer magnet to catch all metal pieces. In my case it was very soft substance so not dangerous. I was surprised that the ammount of the pieces was very small in my case as the engine is brand new and the transmission makes big clunks when engaging 1st gear from stand still. It si quite obvious that this engine was developed with a lot of know how from Aprilia. ;-)
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I just did the 18,000 mile service on the other bike and it had a bit of black slime on the magnets, one sharp little poke on the rear end magnet…
Not judging but “quick-shift” is hurting ME deep inside!!
I guess I’m just to sensitive…
I guess I’m just to sensitive…
Florida lime
Tuned and Synch'ed
Why, if the bike is equipped with a quickshift ?
I wouldn’t consider ANY Moto Guzzi V or single cylinder engine a quick revving engine… It has a lot of rotating mass… If you have it at say 6000 RPM (in neutral) and you’re close the throttle rapidly, how long does it take to lose 1000 RPM…? (approximately the difference between gears) Definitely longer than it takes to use quick shift to change gears!
Therefore some thing has to slow down the engine to the appropriate RPM. Well, that’s usually what the clutch is for… that is the part that that was meant to compensate for RPM differences between transmission and engine…
So parts in the transmission have to do the work of slowing down the engine in a very very short period of time.
They got away ( do not have anymore) with a large flywheel and such but still it’s not a “Race engine”… and just to keep the engine going without the original bigger rotating mass they had to turn up the idle…
Now you end up with a pretty hard first gear shift from neutral … And that’s with the clutch pulled!
Well as I said I’m probably just too sensitive and it hurts me to do such a thing to a bike or a car! I think just because I could do it doesn’t mean I have to do it!
On a sidenote… My Dnepr had a construction where as you pushed the gear lever it did push the clutch as well… Yet you could release the clutch very nicely with the shifter.
Just in case your hands were frozen lol
(regarding downshift… The use of a slipper clutch is necessary which in my mind is just another stupid idea but is necessary when another stupid idea is used)
Just my personal old man’s opinion and no transmission got hurt in writing this!
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The clunk in first gear shift from neutral annoys the heck out of me, but it has nothing to do with the flywheel.
Please read again.. it has to do with the higher RPM necessary because of less mass! 1400 +- rpm Is ridiculous
(emission regulations maybe a factor too)If I would do 1400 rpm in N and shift into 1st with my Griso or my California I would get the same racket…
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Anyone get their dealer to turn the idle down to a more respectable 800rpm , yes the book says 1200-1400rpm , try driving in a slow situation and you end up braking and pulling the clutch in a lot .
That would be great… But I do not think you can do it on the V 100
I would think it’s just a software fix that a dealer could do , when you change your exhausts they go in and remap for the new system
Likely untrue. If anyone here is aware of a dealer doing an "update for aftermarket exhaust" please let us know here.
Idle RPM is a ECU targeted value (and varies depending on air temp, in the wrong direction IMO), which is non-dealer or user adjustable.
AF1 told me when available they could fit and remap for the decat exhaust system , maybe just the sales guy talking.
Likely. They can do that for (track-able) Aprilias, but not Guzzis.
Motorcycle gearboxes don't have syncromesh and the primary reduction drive is between the crankshaft and the clutch. The primary drive causes the gearbox input shaft to rotate at about 600to 700 rpm. The V100 appears to have a low torque engine speed clutch and the primary drive is between the clutch and gearbox. With an idle speed of 1400rpm the gearbox input shaft is rotating at about 900rpm I think this is the reason for the harsh 1st gear engagement and the accompanying lurch forward. There is very little information in the spares catalogue to determine the exact primary drive arrangement, if anyone has more detailed knowledge of this please correct me if I am wrong.
