I'm new to MG, my introduction being a 2021 V7 Stone, which I've been riding for 5 months. I love the bike but my enjoyment is marred by what feels like a sudden loss of fuelling at random moments, especially when doing a steady 30-40mph. It creates a momentary lurching forwards. Is this what is referred to in this thread as hiccuping or cutout? If so, should I consider the EVAP mod? I've discussed the issue with my dealer several times, but not got anywhere with that avenue so far.
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V7-850 Evap and Tip Info
- Thread starterGTM®
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Welcome. Did you read the very first post in this thread? You will need to do some reading but yes, you can rectify your issue
The SEARCH function at the top of the page is your best friend
Ty danketschpel. Your picture and explanation made it seem easy enough. Gave me the motvation to finaly do it after she hesitateted to start after a short stop on a group ride today. Looking forward to testing it tomorrow:I went back and reworked my evap lines. I apologize, I think the small hose was the wrong one to cap off. Anyway, I think this approach ends up cleaner and easier in the end.
I removed the lines extending down from the electronically controlled vent valve that leads to the intake manifold and capped it on the bottom of the valve using an readily available vacuum cap sold in Auto parts stores. I then removed the other non-electrical valve from the tank vent line leaving just the line running from the tank down which terminates in a nice location.
Here's a photo that shows how it looks.
Attachments
radioheadmike
Tuned and Synch'ed
I had this issue (and a common one it seems) when the ambient temperature is around 19 - 21 degrees Celsius. I removed the spring from the fuel cap to improve the ventilation, but it didn't help much with the start up idle issues. It just made me smell like I am drenched in fuel. What did help is bypassing the evap system which is something I did a few weeks back. I no longer have this issue and the bike runs great.
MotoComute4
Just got it firing!
Wow, having read through all this Information has been tremendously helpful. Not being mechanical I truly understand the ‘why’ and the ‘how‘ for doing this work as I have experienced the same condition on my V7 850. To add, my dealer supports these fixes as well. Hats off to you all with this thread. Cheers!
Thank you, I made this modification preventively, not visible.
foggy95
Tuned and Synch'ed
C'est Magnifique!
Robert_C
Tuned and Synch'ed
Thank you for asking this. This is precisely what I am experiencing and I too am trying to determine if this is the correct procedure for correcting that issue. I hope someone will post something clarifying this soon.
Alexandros
Just got it firing!
Thank you my friend.
I called the local dealer and close appointment for the update.
Just picked up my '22 V7 this week. Do you all think this is a good mod to just get out of the way immediately or should I at least wait until the bike is broken in and has the first service?
Also my bike had this diagram under the seat. I was reading this thread and was very confused about the whole thing until I found this and actually tracked the lines down. Now it all makes sense haha!
Also my bike had this diagram under the seat. I was reading this thread and was very confused about the whole thing until I found this and actually tracked the lines down. Now it all makes sense haha!
MotoComute4
Just got it firing!
This thread is excellent in describing the fix to the evap issue. There are different ways to do this as you read through.
Depends on whether ya going to your dealer for service or doing it yourself. My dealer is half a day's trip away so I did my service myself. If I had plans to go to my dealer for anything I'd probably kept my Goose stock...
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Oh dear god, that would have literally killed you!
Do not believe him!. It's his PASSION to modify!
In fact, he lives, eats, breaths, and sleeps motorcycle modification. (Rumor has it he likes it more than tattoos and piercings and that's really saying something!)
Fortunately, he's damn good at it too! Little Lithuanian Garage Engineer with Mad Skills...we hate him because we can't do what he can. It's not fair...
Ya dead right on this! Who dares to take that pleasure from me! LOL
And ya right again, any advise from me would be Do It Yourself
On the Evap note, I suppose modifying anything technically voids the warranty, but at the same time it depends on relationship with the dealer. I saw a good post about it here, more likely from you if I remember correctly. Personally I don't have any relationship with my dealer. Bike runs awesome, after 4.5K kms from new no issues, I love wrenching myself and my dealer is half a day's trip away. So from my point of view- I'll do whatever I want and if I will ever need a dealer for anything I'll be prepared to be denied the service. I just have a lot of trust in V7 and confident enough in myself that I can fix stuff myself before I'll need help from a dealer
I do realize that other people doesn't roll that way
FWIW, my canister came out easily on the right side without removing the frame cross member that is secured by the long bolt. Just tip it down and slide it under the right pipe. I would suggest removing the hoses from the Bosch valve and the plastic vent valve first. Then the canister can be extracted with the hoses still attached. This eliminates fighting to detach the hoses from the canister under the frame. A car body clip fastener removal tool works well for getting the vent hoses to slide off the barbed fittings. Remove the clamps first!
'23 V7-850 Special
'23 V7-850 Special
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I have a late 2022 V7 850 Special which currently dosnt seem to show any of these issues (I will add I havnt been riding in hotter temperatures yet), however Im keen to persue this mod and the method you detail seems almost the easiest , makes sense and leaves the system looking 'stock'. Couple of basic questions, some show the 'block' of the Bosch vent valve above the valve (as you do) and some below. Guessing it dosnt make any difference where the block is as the electrical connection to this valve dosnt care?
Secondly with your mod you have left the canister under the bike in place I assume? ( I have fitted a factory center stand and retained the canister currently)
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I too made the evap bypass mod. At first I was a bit skeptical but after the mod I’m a believer.
The symptoms on my bike (V7 850) were such that when slowing down to a stop I would need to change down gears a bit sooner than I thought was necessary compared to other bikes I’ve owned. If I did not change sooner the bike would chug back and forth with a lot bit of drive train backlash. Being a new bike I thought it was just the characteristics of this bike and soon learned to adjust my riding style. On some occasions on slow corners in first or second gear the bike would unpredictably surge forward and I’d have to close the throttle a bit to compensate.
After the bypass the chugging back and forth smoothed out dramatically. Now I can slow down the engine speed with the decreasing road speed and change down gears a bit later.
The bike has become so much smoother to ride at slow urban type speeds. It’s gained a gentleness to it making it much more delightful to ride.
I effected the mod by removing the “valve” thing between the fuel tank and canister and left the rubber pipes open. Then I disconnected the tube at the purge valve that leads to the inlet manifold and blocked this tube with a small bolt and clamp.
My initial test was a 45 minute ride in an urban setting. After more testing I’ll problaby clean up the mod by altogether removing unwanted pipes and bits.
Thanks to all who commented on this thread and to those who posted pictures. It made my job a lot easier.
The symptoms on my bike (V7 850) were such that when slowing down to a stop I would need to change down gears a bit sooner than I thought was necessary compared to other bikes I’ve owned. If I did not change sooner the bike would chug back and forth with a lot bit of drive train backlash. Being a new bike I thought it was just the characteristics of this bike and soon learned to adjust my riding style. On some occasions on slow corners in first or second gear the bike would unpredictably surge forward and I’d have to close the throttle a bit to compensate.
After the bypass the chugging back and forth smoothed out dramatically. Now I can slow down the engine speed with the decreasing road speed and change down gears a bit later.
The bike has become so much smoother to ride at slow urban type speeds. It’s gained a gentleness to it making it much more delightful to ride.
I effected the mod by removing the “valve” thing between the fuel tank and canister and left the rubber pipes open. Then I disconnected the tube at the purge valve that leads to the inlet manifold and blocked this tube with a small bolt and clamp.
My initial test was a 45 minute ride in an urban setting. After more testing I’ll problaby clean up the mod by altogether removing unwanted pipes and bits.
Thanks to all who commented on this thread and to those who posted pictures. It made my job a lot easier.
Hey,
So I’ve perused the thread and have a basic understanding of what to do, however I’m still a bit confused. I opened up the bike today and see where everything is, but when it comes to the 2 hoses, I’m confused on which to cut (both?) and which one I need to clamp or put something in.
So the right one is the Bosch one that needs to be kept closed somehow, and the left one I can just cut and zip tie to something else?
I figured to leave the canister in for now, just want to figure this part out first and then remove that after.
I am very new to all this, I don’t know what the manifold is (or where or anything at all). I’ve googled for a video but haven’t found anything that shows enough.
So I’ve perused the thread and have a basic understanding of what to do, however I’m still a bit confused. I opened up the bike today and see where everything is, but when it comes to the 2 hoses, I’m confused on which to cut (both?) and which one I need to clamp or put something in.
So the right one is the Bosch one that needs to be kept closed somehow, and the left one I can just cut and zip tie to something else?
I figured to leave the canister in for now, just want to figure this part out first and then remove that after.
I am very new to all this, I don’t know what the manifold is (or where or anything at all). I’ve googled for a video but haven’t found anything that shows enough.
Gotcha. That is super helpful. Thanks.
For the plug, what works best? I can run to a hardware store and get something.
And for heating, what’s the best way to go about that? It was just hidden behind the starter but I can pull it out a bit.
Now that you’ve shown me, this is super easy compared to what my brain initially thought.