I know many didn't wait for a warranty and bought their own to get it taken care of. Yours sounds higher than most I have read about.
- Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
- Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
- There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ
- Thread starterGTM®
- Start date
I know many didn't wait for a warranty and bought their own to get it taken care of. Yours sounds higher than most I have read about.
erangutan
Just got it firing!
I hear you. Guess I want to take advantage of the warranty while I have it. The wait is a drag. Are there other checks I should perform on my bike to see if damage was caused by the overcharging?
Wisconsin v7 Racer
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Test it again after they install the new one. I could be wrong but they might just replace it with one that reads the same since according to moto guzzi there is no problem.
GuzziV65TT
Cruisin' Guzzisti
My V7TT stopped charging recently, stator was not outputting anything, with the exhaust off and front cover removed the metal tab that the wires are tied to had fractured and pulled the wiring against the stator case.
This was shorting one side of the stator to earth
Might be worth checking if you have time.
This was shorting one side of the stator to earth
Might be worth checking if you have time.
Last edited:
Kev M
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Unless that's a typo there's something wrong with the first measurement, or possibly all of them.
dilznik
Just got it firing!
Maybe he means it's charged his battery to 15v?
Vagrant
GT Reference
doubt it. thats where mine was at with 2 different meters. replacement rarely hits 13.0 piss poor quality control if you ask me.
Kev M
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Are you suggesting you got a reading of 15 volts with the engine NOT RUNNING/KEY OFF?
As I said, either we're misunderstanding his post or something is wrong, perhaps with his meter.
Vagrant
GT Reference
So here is my original post. I doubt I checked it with the engine off but if it's being hit with 17 volts running 15 off would be likely shortly there after.
Just check it with a DVM before spending the money. You may be one of the (un)lucky ones like Sib above.
Will do. Sent an enquiry through the store about the EME rec/reg. Is it plug-n-play from the OEM? Many thanks!Just check it with a DVM before spending the money. You may be one of the (un)lucky ones like Sib above.
Good news - pulled my side panel and got out my fancy new DVM. 12.1 off, 13.2 at idle, 14.2 at 3000 RPM. Mine is a late production V7 2015 model, so evidently I got one with a correctly functioning rec/reg. Now if I could only find one of the two little rubber grommets from the side panel that went missing since the last time I had the side panel off!
Thanks to everyone in this thread. Would not have even known to check if not for you guys!
Thanks to everyone in this thread. Would not have even known to check if not for you guys!
T_Guzzi
Just got it firing!
My 2013v7r shows 15,4 at all rpm. Original battery lasted 2 years and 3500 km, but no running issues so far. This thread is long and confusing, but which VR from this site should I buy?
If nothing else it will make me sleep better at night
If nothing else it will make me sleep better at night
I ended up not needing one, but it looks like the EME for 109 would work though may not be plug and play. The OEM might be but is quite a bit more expensive. I asked Todd about the EME one, he said it might require cutting the plug off the old unit and attaching it to the new one. Would recommend soldering for that vs. crimp connectors if you have the savvy. If not, a local auto electric shop or independent MC mechanic should be able to.
robertllr
Tuned and Synch'ed
Just came across this thread. Read every damn post.
Then read all the V7-overcharging posts on the the other forum.
What a mess of inconclusiveness.
Checked output on my 2013 V7 Racer: 12.49 volts DC at rest, and 15.47 volts everywhere in the rev range—from idle to 4k.
Bike starts easily with 7,000 miles on the original battery and no evident electrical issues.
Too many options, but still none of them is plug and play. I'm still thinking about what to do.
Then read all the V7-overcharging posts on the the other forum.
What a mess of inconclusiveness.
Checked output on my 2013 V7 Racer: 12.49 volts DC at rest, and 15.47 volts everywhere in the rev range—from idle to 4k.
Bike starts easily with 7,000 miles on the original battery and no evident electrical issues.
Too many options, but still none of them is plug and play. I'm still thinking about what to do.
robertllr
Tuned and Synch'ed
The regulator part number for the 2013 racer, and maybe others. I wrote to the distributor, and he wrote back that the output is set for 14.6 volts.
BIG HOWEVER: I'm still not entirely sure the plugs will fit, because the bike model and date applications specified--according to my parts book--use the GU32703810 VRR.
Also it's made in China.
Also, I hate removing the tank. I've done it twice. Those who don't find that procedure a royal PITA have my doffed hat. I'm considering just cutting the wires at both old and new regulators and splicing in the new part. Would also reder moot the plug issue. (Spicing is not much fun either, but it's better than pulling the tank.)
BIG HOWEVER: I'm still not entirely sure the plugs will fit, because the bike model and date applications specified--according to my parts book--use the GU32703810 VRR.
Also it's made in China.
Also, I hate removing the tank. I've done it twice. Those who don't find that procedure a royal PITA have my doffed hat. I'm considering just cutting the wires at both old and new regulators and splicing in the new part. Would also reder moot the plug issue. (Spicing is not much fun either, but it's better than pulling the tank.)
Vagrant
GT Reference
on the 15 I didn't remove the tank. as I recall just slid it back a bit.
Wisconsin v7 Racer
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Removing the tank is extremely easy. Make sure it's near empty helps but I've done it full. And use the green quick disconnect on the fuel line and unplug the wires pop off some hoses easy enough. But helps to have a extra set of hands to hold the tank up.
vteec
Just got it firing!
Same for me, I cannot understand how MG did not issue a recall on this.
Mine is also putting out 15.4v.
I don't know if I should just replace it with the same factory one hoping it will be ok.
I'd do a thread search to be sure, but I believe in the Store you will fine an aftermarket Rec Reg, as well as OEM. Supposedly the newer OEMs work properly. Other guys have done even more creative solution. Good Luck.