V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

[Jenko]

Per the post below that started this thread, I STRONGLY advise that you check the charging system of your '13-15 V7 (ALL models) with a digital voltmeter at the battery (best) or Diagnostic software to see where the bike is charging both at idle, and ~3000RPM or so. Acceptable range is 13.4~13.8v at idle, and up to 14.4v MAX at RPM. Most I've seen hover ~15.X volts at idle and soar up into the 16-17's @3k RPM - Do not rely on your dealer to correct it if so under warranty.

What this does, is spike the electrical system with those voltages that the system was never designed to withstand. It is impressive that some of the bikes last as long as they do without a major meltdown. If you don't resolve this issue, first thing it does is kill the battery. If you've replaced your battery in a short time since new, or more then once, this is likely the problem. Second item that goes is the cam sensor. This usually appears by strange running at RPM, until the bike literally dies without warning and *will not restart* until replaced. On some bikes I've replaced the battery, voltage regulator (this is the culprit - don't replace with a stock version from these years), cam sensor, and most recently one bike took replacement of the entire ECU/Throttle Body to resolve poor running.

I have documented this on nearly every V7 I've gotten near since 2013 here in Los Angeles, including my own from my RentAGuzzi Fleet.

If your bike is still under warranty, and you verify this charging issue to be true on your V7, be sure to have your dealer replace the voltage regulator and battery, then ask them to show/prove to you that there are no cam sensor errors (P0336 - SEE THIS THREAD) on the ECU (or any others for that matter) - 0611 is an ECU error. Do this when you first take it in and wait/watch as it is easy to clear the codes once connected. It is good to check this yourself with a Diagnostic tool such as Alaris or similar.
If there are error codes, demand they replace all items shown as an error, or you will be out of pocket for all of them sooner or later.

Hi, thanks for this info. You said somewhere to replace, or get the dealer to replace, with a later V7ii VR. Does this mean that my V7ii (in theory) shouldn't have this problem?

 

[grinmaul]

is there a diagram or picture that shows how to wire this? the box comes with what you see, no instructions,

 

[Larry Vance]

Checked my 13 V 7 and it ran up to 15.1 . Installed a factory replacement and now it peaks at 14.4

 

[Wahoo650]

Has anyone seen an increase (or any) replacement for bulbs? I would think if these systems are putting out 15+ volts consistently a lot of headlights, taillights, etc. would also be failing prematurely. I know back in the old days on cars that was an early indicator that your regulator was shot. Just surprised it hasn't been mentioned.

 

[drawnverybadly]

Has anyone seen an increase (or any) replacement for bulbs? I would think if these systems are putting out 15+ volts consistently a lot of headlights, taillights, etc. would also be failing prematurely. I know back in the old days on cars that was an early indicator that your regulator was shot. Just surprised it hasn't been mentioned.

Now that you mention it, my bulbs did seem to pop somewhat earlier than expected (compared to a car at least, the V7 was my first bike so I have no comparisons). Close to 3 years owned and a little over 9000 miles ridden I've replaced the plate light 4 times, the front parking light twice, the H4 headlight once before upgrading to an LED bulb, and one of the front turn signals. I've long stopped caring about the plate light and the turn signal light was the only new bulb replacement after the VR change.
Like I said though, this is my first bike and maybe none of this is out of the ordinary?

 

[Kev M]

3 years, ~10k+, regulator was charging just north of 15V, not a single bulb, fuse, or other electrical component replaced.

I still say much of this is much ado...

 

[GTM®]

I still say much of this is much ado...

And if so, trying to figure out why the three owned the longest from '13 until now that I know, all required cam sensor replacements early on (they quit running), and one of the three required a new TB/ECU to run correctly. All now have new VR's and batteries, some on their third AGM. Just food for thought.

 

[Larry Vance]

My 2013 v7 had no issues charging at over 15 since new. I did cHange the cr after reading all the posts of this issue. Maybe there is inconsistent quality in the manufacturing of the vr or the luck the draw .

 

[sturgeon]

3 years, ~10k+, regulator was charging just north of 15V, not a single bulb, fuse, or other electrical component replaced.

I still say much of this is much ado...

My view, as someone pretty much ignorant of the ins and outs of battery charging and RR tech, is that replacing the RR with one whose specs 'seem' more in line with most other motorcycles and batteries is cheap insurance. I think of it this way: if I make $50/hr and I waste two hours of my time online on the subject, I'd have been better off spending $100 on a replacement RR. (Yeah, I know, lots of people will say my math is faulty; it's just an example).

Cheap insurance.

 

[Kev M]

And if so, trying to figure out why the three owned the longest from '13 until now that I know, all required cam sensor replacements early on (they quit running), and one of the three required a new TB/ECU to run correctly. All now have new VR's and batteries, some on their third AGM. Just food for thought.

Could be another factor fly which we haven't accounted, differences in usage or environment for example.

I can't say, but I'm just noting that I had one of the earliest examples sold on the east coast (December, first one released for sale by FBF after the demo model) and it never caused a problem.

<shrugs>


In the end I changed the regulator because north of 15 was indeed out of spec, but I'm not sure what I would have done if it was only charging in the mid 14's.

 

[Stradagene]

Acceptable range is 13.4~13.8v at idle, and up to 14.4v MAX at RPM. Most I've seen hover ~15.X volts at idle and soar up into the 16-17's @3k RPM - Do not rely on your dealer to correct it if so under warranty.

I have documented this on nearly every V7 I've gotten near since 2013 here in Los Angeles, including my own from my RentAGuzzi Fleet.

I just checked mine and it is putting out 15.4 V at idle. I'll be changing the VR immediately.

2013 V7 Racer n° 347

 

[Mr Pootle]

Hi, thanks for this info. You said somewhere to replace, or get the dealer to replace, with a later V7ii VR. Does this mean that my V7ii (in theory) shouldn't have this problem?

Is that right? Has Guzzi got it sorted on the newer bikes?

 

[motogriso]

My wife's 13 V7 has had a bunch of trouble with the mufflers completely burning up. first the left at 1500 and now the right at 7500. When I picked it up the never before seen check engine light came on. They kept it there another couple of days and said it was the cam sensor code. Could this voltage regulator have been causing all these issues ? When I say the mufflers burned up they turned glowing red at the connecting plate.

 

[john zibell]

My wife's 13 V7 has had a bunch of trouble with the mufflers completely burning up. first the left at 1500 and now the right at 7500. When I picked it up the never before seen check engine light came on. They kept it there another couple of days and said it was the cam sensor code. Could this voltage regulator have been causing all these issues ? When I say the mufflers burned up they turned glowing red at the connecting plate.

Cam sensor issue may have impacted timing. Retarded timing will cause an engine to run very hot. Your headers should be purple as well. If the headers aren't purple, then you may have had excess fuel burning in the exhaust which is un-related to the cam sensor issue.

 

[motogriso]

Cam sensor issue may have impacted timing. Retarded timing will cause an engine to run very hot. Your headers should be purple as well. If the headers aren't purple, then you may have had excess fuel burning in the exhaust which is un-related to the cam sensor issue.

I was riding around last night(80 degrees out and beautiful) and her bike is still running like crap. I think I'm beginning to see some discoloration to the left muffler now, Ugh. Never had an error code until I took it to the dealership.

 

[GTM®]

Could this voltage regulator have been causing all these issues ?

The one it may likely have caused is the cam sensor. At least that is inline with the others I've documented. What is the idle voltage at the battery? From memory, the muffler issue could be a faulty map. I recall an extended open injector dumping fuel, fixed with a new map. Are you going to T.O.? I'm not too far away and can help you as needed. Write me offline; Todd at GuzziTech.com

 

[dilznik]

Hi all,

Found this thread after I started a thread wondering why I burned up a battery.

TL;DR, maybe the VR, maybe bad management on my part. Here's the skip to the end highlight with follow up question:
===
The possibly bad news is, the multimeter is saying 14.99 at idle and 15.28 at 3-4000 RPM. That article I linked above says the idle was over 15 and at 3-4k it was 16 to 17 volts.

Granted, this all happened to a bike with exactly 450 miles on a 3 year old battery (I bought it 2 years ago on a year old closeout). It's possible I killed the battery by leaving it hooked up in the bike without a battery tender all winter (my garage doesn't get colder than 45-50° in winter).

Does that sound like a bad regulator or just bad motorcycle off season management?
===

 

[GTM®]

Found this thread after I started a thread wondering why I burned up a battery.

Burned up? If you mean it doesn't hold a charge any more, just note that newer AGM batteries only last 2-3 years these days when perfectly maintained and put into service correctly (most are not). If you are using a battery tender style maintenance charger, best to not leave them plugged in all Winter. Only plug them in for a short burst every 2-4 weeks.
Lithium batteries are leading the way; Expensive but I'm at nearly 4.5 years using them on my personal bikes, and I have yet to put even one on a charger.

 

[dilznik]

Burned up? If you mean it doesn't hold a charge any more, just note that newer AGM batteries only last 2-3 years these days when perfectly maintained and put into service correctly (most are not). If you are using a battery tender style maintenance charger, best to not leave them plugged in all Winter. Only plug them in for a short burst every 2-4 weeks.
Lithium batteries are leading the way; Expensive but I'm at nearly 4.5 years using them on my personal bikes, and I have yet to put even one on a charger.

Sorry, not actually burned up. It was down to 3v and wouldn't charge.
At this point I'm willing to assume it died due to age and mismanagement by me.
At the next service (first service) I'll have them check it.

 

[erangutan]

I bought my 2015 V7 Stone used about 6 months ago, 3400 miles, and luckily inherited the warranty. I've put another 1000 miles on it. Just found this thread and immediately went out to check my charging. 15V off, 15.5 at idle, 17V at 3000rpm. I called my local Guzzi shop and they said they'd take it in and it *should* be covered under warranty. They're ordering a new regulator/rectifier from Italy, said they have no way of knowing when it will come in. Just want to note this here to ask if there's anything else I should make sure they check for? I'm surprised it lasted this long, but I have no idea if there were any electrical issues before I got it.
Thanks in advance for any input.