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California 1400 hanging throttle

Ok. So, I have an update. not quite what I expected but it turns out the problem had nothing to do with the throttle or fueling... The culprit was the rear brake pedal!! When fully compressed - at a traffic light for example - it would release normally when I would disengage only to engage again quite aggressively. Causing the bike to slow down. Add the closing of the throttle in such a scenario and you get a complete loss of power . I'm very lucky this didn't occurs at high speed..
 
bounty320i said:
Ok. So, I have an update. not quite what I expected but it turns out the problem had nothing to do with the throttle or fueling... The culprit was the rear brake pedal!! When fully compressed - at a traffic light for example - it would release normally when I would disengage only to engage again quite aggressively. Causing the bike to slow down. Add the closing of the throttle in such a scenario and you get a complete loss of power . I'm very lucky this didn't occurs at high speed..
Click to expand...

So...we now know what the issue was...do we know what caused the rear brake to engage by itself?
 
Touringman said:
So...we now know what the issue was...do we know what caused the rear brake to engage by itself?
Click to expand...
All they said was that the rod linking the pedal to the master cylinder was getting jammed so the loosened that and applied some grease.
 
bounty320i said:
All they said was that the rod linking the pedal to the master cylinder was getting jammed so the loosened that and applied some grease.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm...going to have to check that on mine. It hasn't stalled, but it was very difficult to back out of the garage the other day...kind of like the brake was being applied...
 
Touringman said:
Hmmmm...going to have to check that on mine. It hasn't stalled, but it was very difficult to back out of the garage the other day...kind of like the brake was being applied...
Click to expand...
Out riding for about an hour, lots of freeway, got off the exit & had to wait a few minutes for the traffic light. The bike should have been plenty warm but not over heated. I had to stop right away and when I pulled in the clutch the revs hung up at about 3000. I blibed the throttle and the rpms dropped right down to normal. Never had this happen before. I am currently changing the oil & adjusting the valves for the 6000 mi service. I have the full fuelling mods. I Don't know what to think since this is the first & only time this has happened, but now I know what you are experiencing
 
Just a note, certainly not anything definitive, but I got to ride the past three days and the hanging throttle problem did not appear, and I noticed some good engine braking. Ambient temperature was only 55-60F and I didn't sit in any traffic so I'll have to wait for hotter summer temperatures for more insight.
 
I have an update on my hanging throttle problem and it is cured. To begin with my problem was not just the throttle hanging up and dropping very slowly when coming to a stop. Mine also would want to die if left idling at normal rpm's for more than about 15 seconds so I had to pick it back up with the throttle. Part of the problem was fixed by replacing the clutch switch. The rest of the issues were cured by Todd when I took the bike to his shop for service and tweaking the mapping. My valves were out of adjustment but the map changes that Todd did cured my hanging idle and hanging rpm's when closing the throttle and the bike wanting to die when idling at a stoplight. I highly recommend Todds remapping and tuning.
 
groundhog105 said:
I have an update on my hanging throttle problem and it is cured. To begin with my problem was not just the throttle hanging up and dropping very slowly when coming to a stop. Mine also would want to die if left idling at normal rpm's for more than about 15 seconds so I had to pick it back up with the throttle. Part of the problem was fixed by replacing the clutch switch. The rest of the issues were cured by Todd when I took the bike to his shop for service and tweaking the mapping. My valves were out of adjustment but the map changes that Todd did cured my hanging idle and hanging rpm's when closing the throttle and the bike wanting to die when idling at a stoplight. I highly recommend Todds remapping and tuning.
Click to expand...

What did Todd do exactly with the mapping and tuning? What about the clutch switch? Part number? Ease of replacement?
 
Yarvis said:
What did Todd do exactly with the mapping and tuning? What about the clutch switch? Part number? Ease of replacement?
Click to expand...
My clutch switch was replaced under my extended warranty so I don't have an answer to that question. My California has Todds tuning for the ECU plus the PC5 and auto tune. I'm not sure what changes he made with map, maybe he could chime in if he sees this. I know it smelled rich at idle.
 
groundhog105 said:
My clutch switch was replaced under my extended warranty so I don't have an answer to that question. My California has Todds tuning for the ECU plus the PC5 and auto tune. I'm not sure what changes he made with map, maybe he could chime in if he sees this. I know it smelled rich at idle.
Click to expand...

Thanks Groundhog!
 
groundhog105 said:
My clutch switch was replaced under my extended warranty so I don't have an answer to that question. My California has Todds tuning for the ECU plus the PC5 and auto tune. I'm not sure what changes he made with map, maybe he could chime in if he sees this. I know it smelled rich at idle.
Click to expand...
Groundhog...
Exactly what issue did the clutch switch cause...or what fixed itself once it was replaced? I have Todds fueling system but mine has started "loping" at idle...kind of like an old chevy V8 with too big of a cam...
Again this only happens with a well warmed engine...
Any thoughts?
 
I'm noticing the hanging throttle again now that the weather's warming up ... annoying when you're at a light and the bike's revving at 3,000 rpm or more in neutral.
 
Touringman said:
Groundhog...
Exactly what issue did the clutch switch cause...or what fixed itself once it was replaced? I have Todds fueling system but mine has started "loping" at idle...kind of like an old chevy V8 with too big of a cam...
Again this only happens with a well warmed engine...
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
The clutch switch caused a high idle when stopping at 2000 to 3000 rpm. The loping at idle then wanting to die is what Todds tweaking of the map solved in addition to taking care of the rpm's dropping on closing the throttle.
 
Assume you're talking about the little switch behind the clutch lever?? My little white pin goes in and out easily when I squeeze and release the lever (after sitting in the garage and cool). Maybe it doesn't when the bike is hot but I fail to see any reason that would affect the idle.

I'm still going with a air/vacuum issue ... may see if the little bit of light around the throttle plate has sealed with carbon build-up at some point ... but then why only when hot and not always. :wondering:
 
The clutch switch on my Breva 1100 causes the rpm to increase by about 200-300rpm when pulled in. I believe its to overcome any load the clutch would put on the engine.
 
Hi guys, thought I'd pass on my experiences on this & might save you some time & expense. But sorry, as yet no cure. My 3 year old 1400 touring (6.5k miles) suffers badly with the hanging throttle issue. The bike doesn't need to be particularly hot before behaving abnormally, once warm & running in cool ambient temperatures (50*f) the revs will hang. The symptoms: Decelerating on a closed throttle & with 100% engine braking above 3000 rpm once the revs drop below 3k, power (ie fuel) will come back in & the revs will either decrease very slowly, or just hang @3k until the throttle is blipped or the engine killed. The bike also hesitates while accelerating from low revs frequently.
Before anyone suggests Todds fuelling mods, I already have them & while the overall engine response is much improved they haven't helped this issue. This is not a problem with the fuel table.
All specs checkout as normal in Guzzdiag against the references in the manual & the throttle reset/learning have been done numerous times.
So far I've tried the following to attempt a cure: Replaced the clutch switch. Made no difference. I know some have reported success with this but to be honest I had my doubts. The switch only has two positions (in or out) & it's function can be checked in software. I replaced it anyway, to no avail.
Replaced the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. The above symptoms can replicate those of a failing pressure sensor but sadly it made no difference.
Removed & cleaned the throttle body, checked for air leaks & again no improvement.
I still think this is a manifold pressure issue rather than one of fueling or throttle synchronisation & still hope to find a resolution.
I love this bike, but this glitch makes riding it at anything other than cruising speeds a frustrating experience.
Jon
 
groundhog105 said:
The clutch switch caused a high idle when stopping at 2000 to 3000 rpm. The loping at idle then wanting to die is what Todds tweaking of the map solved in addition to taking care of the rpm's dropping on closing the throttle.
Click to expand...
Thank You! that's shat I was hoping to hear.
 
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